When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I can't seem to find the collectors with the o2 bungs on Summit's website. Nor am I able to locate the correct manifold gaskets because I don't know what the port size is. Could you help me out here Mike?
I can't seem to find the collectors with the o2 bungs on Summit's website. Nor am I able to locate the correct manifold gaskets because I don't know what the port size is. Could you help me out here Mike?
As for the collectors: If you call the summit tech line (not online) and speak to a person, they should be able to direct you to the part number with the o2 bungs already welded in.
Or you can just order up a couple bungs with your headers, and weld them in yourself.
Thanks a ton Mike. I've already got a friend on my California chapter that is going to ask a friend of a friend who knows a reputable exhaust guy, yadda yadda yadda. Hopefully he can hook me up with a good deal. I'll keep you all posted as this whole thing unfolds.
Well I finally made some time to get this project going. I've finished stripping the paint off of the headers, used a paint stripper called Jasco, works great. Stripping the paint was a little more work than I had hoped for; not hard, just tedious.
Next step: paint 'em! I've got some 1200* stove pipe paint that I'm going to use but I have since been told by someone else that there is "header paint" that has a higher heat tolerance... Is 1200* going to suffice or should I seek out some of this header paint?
As far as california emissions and the cat configuration...this is what I have been told by about a dozen muffler shops when I was putting together my exhaust system.
What you can do, is yank the first cat and put in a y-pipe. Further down stream, you yank the second cat and put in a "high efficiency" cat that has an inlet in the middle of it for secondary air...as opposed to injecting the secondary air between the 2 cats (thats how my rig was, not sure about yours), you have to inject it into the cat itself when converting to a single cat. According to all these muffler shops, this is california legel as per the books they are given by the legislature and must abide by and there are massive fines for not going by these books.
In the end, I did not even end up using a muffler shop...instead, I pieced it together my self with 2 90* bends, some straight pipe, 2 mufflers and the Bassani y-pipe and I clamped it all together. As we speak, I am in the middle of modifying the y-pipe so that it line up wit the maniolds as per conanski's idea.
You know, I have never seen that inlet for the AIR system... I'm gonna go have a look at my truck right now, cuz now I'm curious.
EDIT: Upon close inspection I don't see any external hoses going to the AIR system anywhere on my exhaust. I do have a nipple on the crossover pipe between my two pipes right before it enters the first cat (y-pipe) but there is nothing attached to the nipple...
Last edited by Skandocious; Sep 2, 2007 at 04:14 AM.
Well I finally made some time to get this project going. I've finished stripping the paint off of the headers, used a paint stripper called Jasco, works great. Stripping the paint was a little more work than I had hoped for; not hard, just tedious.
Next step: paint 'em! I've got some 1200* stove pipe paint that I'm going to use but I have since been told by someone else that there is "header paint" that has a higher heat tolerance... Is 1200* going to suffice or should I seek out some of this header paint?
If your exhaust gases are in the 1200* range or higher, you got some problems. I was monitoring my exhaust with a laser and I was in the 500* range just outside the exhaust port on the manifold at idle. At 1200*, I can imagine that the headers/manifolds would be glowing red. A 1200* degree paint should be fine...I would be more concerned about it chipping and flaking away over time than the temp limit of 1200*. Here is an idea...get the headers chromed...you wont have to worry about that stuff failing if it's thick enough and properly applied.
You know, I have never seen that inlet for the AIR system... I'm gonna go have a look at my truck right now, cuz now I'm curious.
EDIT: Upon close inspection I don't see any external hoses going to the AIR system anywhere on my exhaust. I do have a nipple on the crossover pipe between my two pipes right before it enters the first cat (y-pipe) but there is nothing attached to the nipple...
The small crossover pipe just before the first cat...you mean where the o2 sensor goes??? Never heard of a nipple there.
The rigs that I have seen have an inlet for air between the first cat and the second cat. Are you sure you are looking hard enough? If you really have no air inlet anywhere between the cats and that other nipple is for air and it's not hooked up (it might be a good idea to find out for sure what that is) you might as well just yank the thermactor system...air pump, solenoids, check valves, plumbing, vacuum lines etc etc since none of it is doing you any good + you could clean up a whole lot of clutter and odds are that within all that mess there are at least a couple vacuum leaks you don't know about. Not to mention how notorious those parts are to failure...freezing up, leaking etc.
No, my o2 sensors are further forward on the pipes, just several inches past my exhaust manifold flanges. I'll have a closer look tomorrow when it's light outside. Can someone post a picture of their AIR inlet tube so I can see what it looks like?
As for removing the thermactor system, won't that prevent me from passing smog? Remember, in live in the strict CA smog conditions.
No, my o2 sensors are further forward on the pipes, just several inches past my exhaust manifold flanges. I'll have a closer look tomorrow when it's light outside. Can someone post a picture of their AIR inlet tube so I can see what it looks like?
As for removing the thermactor system, won't that prevent me from passing smog? Remember, in live in the strict CA smog conditions.
If you have O2 sensors up there, then you have a set up that I don't have 1st hand experience with.
And regarding removal of the t-mactor, do they do underhood inspections? If not, then getting rid of it shouldent prevent you from passing. If they do underhood inspections, you could easily come up with a dummy air pump set up that is really no more than an idler that looks like an air pump (this would mean removing the veins from your pump) with some hoses on it that go to nowhere. After inspection, remove the hoses. As I understand it, the thermactor system only there to make the cats last longer by adding oxygen to the exhaust gas so that the cats can convert the HC and CO to CO2 without depleting the stored oxygen in the cats as much. The emissions wont change much at all after the thermactor removal, but after the removal the emissions wont be as clean after say several months down the road.
I think I'll leave the thermactor system in place then, I'm already pushing my luck at the smog stations by putting on longtube headers and deleting one of my cats. I'll go out and take a picture of my exhaust when I get dressed, if I didn't pack up my camera. Thanks eco.
For some reason my truck which has always been in PA, came with the cali emissions. Air injection, dual stock cats ect. What I did when I went with long tubes was run true dual exhaust and put a high flow cat on each side. I doubt my custom "hack-job" would pass a CA visual inspection, but my mechanic said that the exhaust gases coming from my truck (93 with 160,000+ miles at the time) were cleaner than most brand new cars hes done emissions on. The first time I thought about doing exhaust work on this truck, I asked him what kind of visual inspection it had to pass. He said that in PA visual inspection isnt really done or at least enforced. He said CA was the worst on visual inspections for obvious reasons, but normally if the job looks professional, it will pass. About the air inlet, I drilled a hole and welded a sleeve on the passenger side pipe after the cat and used a garden hose and some hose clamps to attach it to the pump.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.