New heads
Has anyone with the 4.0 OHV engine (1996 sport) ever done a head swap? - I know now that I have a cracked head, and need to do at least the one side, but might as well do them both.
How hard is this to do?
Also, any reccomendations for the new heads? I want something even better than the stock ones...
and of course, I'll do new gaskets too...
I was also toying with new Headers (maybe flowmaster) while it's torn down... I wonder how much more power you gain?
Thanks y'all!
as far as aftermarket heads im not sure that any actually exist.
and headers will add some power, but they are usually more noticeable when you have a longer list of mods already done to the motor
I have one for this truck, but it doesn't really get into it specificly, just how to do a complete engine overhaul...
There are after market heads that someone makes, can't remember who, and they claim better than OEM...
Anyways, I want to know if this is going to cost me more than what the Truck is worth to have done, or should I sell it, and buy something a bit newer...
Bob
well i would assume you would want to fix a cracked head before selling....for monetary and moral reasons...so i would say get it done either by yourself or a shop
and one more thing i noticed, companies can claim that their heads flow better by "X" percent, but the big thing is what else was done to the motor along with the head swap. swapping heads alone may yield a bit of increase, but when intake manifold, exhaust, intake track, etc....are done, adding aftermarker heads will result in a higher (and more impressive) increase in power, if that makes sense.
It went well. I replaced the cracked head and had a valve job done on the good one. I replaced all the gaskets as well as the head bolts. The manual and the machine shop guy both recommended this as they stretch when torqued.
Taking it apart, I encountered a couple of difficulties. 1) Getting the electrical harnesses cut loose. It took me a while to realize that I just needed to take a knife and cut all the electrical tape holding them. Plus, you have to remove so of the hold-downs to which they are taped to remove bolts etc from underneath. 2) Getting the EGR return pipe (or whatever it was called. I'm not sitting in front of my manual) out of the upper intake manifold. My friend came over and told me that there was just a large o-ring inside and the two of us got it out after about five minutes of rocking/pulling the intake back and forth.
Putting it back to gether was no problem though I did manage to misread the manual specs for torqing the intake manifold nuts. I read ft-pounds for inch-pounds. Oh well, I backed everything off and restarted the torqing sequence and so far havn't noticed any problems.
I paid $480 for the valve job, replacement head, gasket kit and head bolts. Not sure if that is a good price or not.
Tom





