stuck distributor cap on a 460
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stuck distributor cap on a 460
I'm tring to pull the intake off my 460 and one of the tops of the bolts broke off. The intake will still come off but I need to pull the distributor off for clearence but I can't seem to get it off. This may be a stupid question but how do I get it off. I've never actually pulled one off. I took what I thought to be the only bolt out of the side but it will not budge. Do I just have to persuade it off or is there more to it? Thanks for every ones help I really appreciate it.
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Joined: May 2003
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From: Northern Illinois
Distributor or distributor cap is stuck? Sounds more like you can't get the dizzy out of the block? Common problem when aluminum meets cast iron, corrosion sets in. It will take some persuading to get it out, might want to soak the base of it with PB Blaster for a day or 2 first.
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From: Northern Illinois
why I found 2 bent push rods.
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After some more persuasion I finally got the distributer off & the intake. After I took the intake off I found a metal "pan" covering the valves & entire block in between the heads. I don't see the "pan" in the pic that you posted above? What is it and how do I get it off?? Do I have to pull the heads and exhaust? Someone told me that I need to check the valves for movement. Please don't laugh too much I have no idea/guidence on what I am doing! Thanks
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Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2003
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From: Northern Illinois
The pan is called a valley pan or intake gasket. It lifts straight off with no tools needed. Do a compression test and record your #'s so you know before pulling the heads.
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well I didn't check the compression or pull the heads yet but I got the pan off and was finally abe to put a new push rod in and turn the motor. when the cam pushes the rod up into the rocker it breaks the rocker and the spring does not move. On the other side where I pulled out the bent push rod everything seems to be moving ok. What should my next step be?
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From: Northern Illinois
LOL, there must be no one else reading this forum.
Go to the parts store and ask them for a compression gauge, they make 2 modells. One kind has a tapered rubber tip that fits in the spark plug hole and you hold it there while turning over the motor and the other has screw in connectors to go in the plug hole. Record the reading on the gauge, you want all of the cylinders to be pretty close to the same number.
Go to the parts store and ask them for a compression gauge, they make 2 modells. One kind has a tapered rubber tip that fits in the spark plug hole and you hold it there while turning over the motor and the other has screw in connectors to go in the plug hole. Record the reading on the gauge, you want all of the cylinders to be pretty close to the same number.
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ok I finally got a compression tester now I just need to recharge the battery in the truck. I also found a bent valve in the head where the bent push rod was. Why would that have bent. I found a newly rebuilt set of heads a my a friend of a friends house. He only wants 250 for the set so I think I am going to buy them but should I feel alright about not having to do any other work or is the problem still somewhere else that caused the bent push rods? I'll post the compression results in a couple hours after the battery is ready.
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compression test complete. I don't know what the actuall numbers of the cylinders are but on the driver side starting at the radiator I had 90, 100, 45, 120. On the passenger side starting at the front 10,100,110,120. The two low ones are the cylinders that had the bent push rods. After watching the motor turn over I have figured out that each one of the valves are sticking down on these particular spots. So if I buy the new heads does it sound like my problems will be over? what makes the valves stick? The truck did suposedly sit for 2-3 years .
Logistics Pro
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From: Northern Illinois
Worn out valve guides. Take the heads in to a machine shop for an estimate to fix before buying those other heads UNLESS they have been checked and had a valve job done. Those #'s sound terrible.
Usually a valve job is around a 100 bucks.
Usually a valve job is around a 100 bucks.