Whose got the most ponies?
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 122
Likes: 0
Me being stock, with an aftermarket turbocharger, it says i should be putting about 200 ponies to the ground, does anyone have that article for him to read about that 6.9L that had the banks turbo and was running just the same as a 2000 PSD?
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 16
From: Nutter Fort, WV
I don't have any numbers on my motor.
It runs good enough that I smile a lot.
Late 85 6.9 block
94 7.3 turbo IP maxed out.
Stage 1 injectors
Pistons milled 20 thousandths
Balanced
ATS upgrade turbo
ARP head studs
Bored 30 over
7.3 rockers
7.3 turbo valves
3" downpipe to twin 3" stacks
Ram air to feed the turbo
All the exhaust before the turbo is wrapped to keep the heat in.
Boost numbers in the twenties and still blowing black.
There are a couple other things, but that is the big stuff.
Now if I had drive shafts that could take the pressure.....
It runs good enough that I smile a lot.
Late 85 6.9 block
94 7.3 turbo IP maxed out.
Stage 1 injectors
Pistons milled 20 thousandths
Balanced
ATS upgrade turbo
ARP head studs
Bored 30 over
7.3 rockers
7.3 turbo valves
3" downpipe to twin 3" stacks
Ram air to feed the turbo
All the exhaust before the turbo is wrapped to keep the heat in.
Boost numbers in the twenties and still blowing black.
There are a couple other things, but that is the big stuff.
Now if I had drive shafts that could take the pressure.....
Laughing Gas
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 919
Likes: 4
From: Newberg Oregon
Some of the important info is in my sig, I dont know what it puts out but it runs good and strong.
Hey dave, what did you wrap the pipes with??? And how do you get so much boost out of that ats??
Hey dave, what did you wrap the pipes with??? And how do you get so much boost out of that ats??
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Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 16
From: Nutter Fort, WV
Ram air and header wrap two layers deep soaked with ceramic paint when each layer went on.
I have every pipe I could wrap before the turbo done that way.
That heeps more of the heat in the the exhaust to spin the turbo faster.
I also used turn out stacks, they are turned just right to make the airflow over the cab draw the exhaust out of the stacks.
I also did the down pipe, but that just helped lower the cab temps.
A lot of thought went into every upgrade move I made just hoping for a couple extra ponies.
I am happy with the way it turned out, but I am already planning a couple more upgrades.
As far as numbers.....
Well I had 4 tons of stone on my truck and a Duramax had about 3 tons of block on his.
We hit a 6% hill and I pulled out to pass.
The Duramax knows exactly what my smoke smells like.
The driver would not even pull up beside me at the next stoplight.
Not bad at all since I was over 16,000 for a gross weight.
That is the kind of numbers I go for.
Just for the record, I can not catch an empty Duramax.
Put put a load on it and it is going down at the first hill we hit.
I have every pipe I could wrap before the turbo done that way.
That heeps more of the heat in the the exhaust to spin the turbo faster.
I also used turn out stacks, they are turned just right to make the airflow over the cab draw the exhaust out of the stacks.
I also did the down pipe, but that just helped lower the cab temps.
A lot of thought went into every upgrade move I made just hoping for a couple extra ponies.
I am happy with the way it turned out, but I am already planning a couple more upgrades.
As far as numbers.....
Well I had 4 tons of stone on my truck and a Duramax had about 3 tons of block on his.
We hit a 6% hill and I pulled out to pass.
The Duramax knows exactly what my smoke smells like.
The driver would not even pull up beside me at the next stoplight.
Not bad at all since I was over 16,000 for a gross weight.
That is the kind of numbers I go for.
Just for the record, I can not catch an empty Duramax.
Put put a load on it and it is going down at the first hill we hit.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 16
From: Nutter Fort, WV
None close to here.
Not worth a 150 mile drive one way to find out numbers that do nothing for me.
Get the gross weight up around 20,000 pounds and look at a 15% grade, now those numbers do something for me.
Here is my dyno.
22,000 pounds as pictured
You drag that up some of our local hills, the one beside my house is over 30% grade.
If you make the top, you did good.
Yes you will be in 4x4 and all four tires will be digging on a concrete road.
There are blacktop roads here that I have to go up very early in the morning in the summer.
In the afternoon I get hung up because the blacktop is to soft even with a posi in both axles.
Not worth a 150 mile drive one way to find out numbers that do nothing for me.
Get the gross weight up around 20,000 pounds and look at a 15% grade, now those numbers do something for me.
Here is my dyno.
22,000 pounds as pictured
You drag that up some of our local hills, the one beside my house is over 30% grade.
If you make the top, you did good.
Yes you will be in 4x4 and all four tires will be digging on a concrete road.
There are blacktop roads here that I have to go up very early in the morning in the summer.
In the afternoon I get hung up because the blacktop is to soft even with a posi in both axles.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 16
From: Nutter Fort, WV
Not unless I lug the engine, but I was an over the road driver for 13 years.
Just keep the RPM up when I am heavy and no EGT issues at all.
Milling the pistons to lower the stock compression dropped the EGT and let me run more boost.
That was a win win mod.
I built it to do what you saw in the picture or haul loads on the dump bed.
I tried a reman 7.3 turbo, but after three of them blew up in 28,000 miles I went back to a 6.9.
Addressed every weak point of the 6.9 during my rebuild.
The remans were running about 12 PSI for boost.
I am running double that and have outlasted the mileage I got out of three remans.
The only downside to all the mods is the fuel mileage if I run it hard for very long.
I can get down to 8 or 9 MPG if I stand on the loud pedal for most of a tank of fuel.
Also drive shaft yokes don't last very long and neither do U joints, and I never speed shift or dump the clutch.
Right now the U joints can be removed from the driveshaft with a pair of needle nose pliers.
Use them to remove the C clips, then just slide the U joint caps out with my fingers.
I can swap both rear drive shaft U joints under the truck in 10 minutes.
Just keep the RPM up when I am heavy and no EGT issues at all.
Milling the pistons to lower the stock compression dropped the EGT and let me run more boost.
That was a win win mod.
I built it to do what you saw in the picture or haul loads on the dump bed.
I tried a reman 7.3 turbo, but after three of them blew up in 28,000 miles I went back to a 6.9.
Addressed every weak point of the 6.9 during my rebuild.
The remans were running about 12 PSI for boost.
I am running double that and have outlasted the mileage I got out of three remans.
The only downside to all the mods is the fuel mileage if I run it hard for very long.
I can get down to 8 or 9 MPG if I stand on the loud pedal for most of a tank of fuel.
Also drive shaft yokes don't last very long and neither do U joints, and I never speed shift or dump the clutch.
Right now the U joints can be removed from the driveshaft with a pair of needle nose pliers.
Use them to remove the C clips, then just slide the U joint caps out with my fingers.
I can swap both rear drive shaft U joints under the truck in 10 minutes.
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 322
Likes: 0
From: Hutto, Tx
Does anybody have HP and Torque numbers for these pre-power stroke engines? I currently have a 351W gas, but I have an opportunity to put in a 94 IDI turbo engine. The engine has 75k on it. My problem is that it sounds like a 94 IDI turbo engine only makes 190 horse power. The 94 351W makes over 200HP. I can mod my 351w to make 300HP very easily. So which way should I go with this?
