Im new at this whole doing it myself thing. I kinda just want to see what i can do with my beater. It had rot wholes in it so i cut squares out and spot welded sheet metal behind the holes then bondoed over them. now im still learning how to really work with bondo but so far its taking the shape i want, Its not the neatest job i ever seen though, lmao. My question is whats the easiest way to take care of the fender area around the tire? Theres rot around the there and im not that experienced to cut it it out and shape sheet medal to that curve and roundeness. There are pics in my gallery.

 

The wheel well lip area being a common rust out point, You may be able to find a patch panel for that area. Someone from this site probably knows some sources if you can't find any in a search. If not available, then making a patch is about your only choice, cause if you just fill in rot holes with any type of filler, it soon will be coming back through. Also when installing a patch and not an entire panel (which would still be welded solid on an exterior seam where the new panel may meet another part of the car, for example when installing a quarter, the seam at the sail panel is welded solid), the seams should be welded up solid, but skip around and don't build up to much heat. It should not just be spotted in, or you may likely have problems show up and the filler ending up cracking. Many like to start with a fiberglass filler or all metal (which I am not a fan of) type filler before there regular filler, at least over the weld seam areas incase there may be a small pinhole or something in the weld. You also want to treat behind the repair and its a good idea if you are laping your piece over or under the original sheetmetal, to spray between the area that will be lapped with weld through primer to treat between, and apply a quality seam sealer (2k type is the best choice) inside to cover the seam to prevent moisture from getting in between. Also use epoxy primer down first on the baremetal and over you bodywork areas to seal things up.Now maybe being a beater you just want to patch it up, call it good enough, and make it look better for now, but taking the steps above is your best chance of a good long lasting repair, short of replacing the entire panel.

 

Well said Kenseth. IMO when patching the wheel wells, I like to buy a pre formed patch panel like out of JC whitney. I cut it out and weld it in so that I have to do as little mud work around the flare around the wheel well as possible. When sanding the putty on the flat center section of the bed side, use a board that is long enough to lay flat on un-mudded or welded areas to the front and rear of the patch. Sand with the block laying as flat as possible on these areas. By doing this, you greatly reduce or even eliminate the chance of the flat part of the bedside looking "ripply" or wavy from uneven sanding. ALWAYS use a sanding block. NEVER sand with your hand unless absolutely necessary. Good luck.

 

I am doing a little patching this weekend. Got a Cavalier, he wants the handles and locks shaved since he got door poppers put in. I've come to the conclusion (which I actually did a long time ago), I have to get my butt in gear and go get a bottle so I can convert my little lincoln welder to gas and try the harris twenty gauge .030 wire I've read about. Can they make metal on the cavaliers (or any other newer car)too much thinner? Good thing there is some crown in that door. Taking it really slow welding and working the metal as I went and still chasing some warpage around. It will be okay, got it so probably nowhere more then about 3/16 anywhere to fill, but so frustrating when your taking your forming your patch for a nice tight fit, take your sweet time, welding real short sections, cooling with air while welding, and your still going and bumping out low areas and using the stud welder. The point of all this rambling, is if you can, get a gas mig to weld with. I will make neater welds, and cancers are doesn't get things quite as hot or blow holes as easiy. It can be done with a flux core, but it will be tougher. Should of seen the dip I put in my bonneville door years ago when I first did a real big amount of patching with it. Least that wheel well on a ford truck shouldn't be quite as bad.

 

kenseth...why not the metal filler?

 

Are you talking all metal or metal2metal? I used that stuff for years when I worked at a yacht builder, and don't really care for it. Lets just say its more fineky about how its used and harder to work with and sand, and people have stated they have seen more failures in all metal. I will testify I seen it cracked on occasion at the yacht builder, where it was most likely abused or not used exactly right- mixed too hot, cold metal ect. I already planned on using fiberglass filler first, and had picked that and epoxy primer up before I started. Fiberglass filler I abused pretty bad on that bonneville door, and six years later no problems. Its just frustrating when you take your time and try to have very little fill, but ends up being a little bigger area and little more then you wanted. It will be fine, it won't be real thick, and the other side is looking like its going better. Just frustrating and all.

 

Fiberstrand(fiberglass) body putty is a little better to abuse. Not that its a good idea to lay down too much putty, but If you absolutely HAVE to put it on thick, use fiberglass putty to do most of the filling.

 

I had some metal to metal and it was half hardened when I opened it and then got some 'all metal' to work with. I was under the impression that it gives similar results as working with lead. But if not I'd not want to mess with it too much.

I'd like to have you around when i tackle the 26' steelcraft alloy hull I plan on turning into a lake cubby...