rust prevention
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rust prevention
I wasn't sure what section to put this in so I figured I would start here. Has anyone had any experience with those devices that put a small electrical current though the body of the vehicle into a bar of zinc or some other material to creat electrolysis to make all the corrosion happen to the bar of material and not eat the body of your vehicle? I have seen them in J.C. Whitney and other places but wonder if they really work. I have a 1979 f-350 crewcab with absolutely no rust or body damage and want to keep it that way. So far, I have sprayed rocker gaurd on the lower 6"s of the body before it gets painted and coated all body panels and pillars on the inside with 3-M Rust Fighter-1 using a special 3' long nozle that sprays 360 degrees and out the end . I'm just lookng for any and all ways to keep the rust from starting. Like I said, this truck has aboslutely zero. I stripped the entire truck to bare metal and found nothing.
Thanks for all the help, Rod
Thanks for all the help, Rod
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2006
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From: Across from the neighbors
Never had any experience with that stuff but... I love that POR15. That stuff works miracles. I have the same truck you speak of. No rust here either. only 47k miles to be exact. Im striping the truck to bare frame rails and goin from there. The frame, inner and outer floorboards,and anywhere else i can get POR15 in it will go. As for the outside of the body Im stripping it to bare metal and goin with the dupont acid etch primer then with the 2k filler primer and a good sealer. then ill add the base and probably 5 coats of clear. Im not sure what rust gaurd im going to use on the exterior sheet metal but when i decide ill let ya know. Oh and the inner and outer floorboards will be line xed before the cab goes back on the frame as so will the inside and underside of the bed.
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Thanks for the tip! I'm going to under-coat the bottom side of the cab and bed and Rhino-Line the inside of the bed. The front is a fiberglass one piece tilt, so no worries about rust there. I'm most concerned about keeping the cab and related parts rust free. I live in Ca so it is not like we salt the roads on anything but the beach is not too far away from me. My truck is still in the body work stage. I'm having some of the "factory" imperfections taken out of it and have removed all trim and exterior elmblems. Going for the "smooth" look. Painting it white with all white lenses.
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2006
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From: Across from the neighbors
Ok only 1 tip ive got for ya. I rhino lined the floorboard of my 78 250 (work truck) Did exactly what the can said as far as prep and dry tiem. As soon as i layed a sttering box in and it leaked out PS fluid it ate right through the rhino liner. Wouldnt advise the rhino. Undercoat is good but put something on the metal b4 you undercoat it. If you happen to put a tear in the undercoat and drive in the rain itll hold water like nobodys business. Then there goes the floorboards in no time. I spent 3 yrs learnin all this autobody stuff and actually placed 18th in the nation for the national auto body competition. Some things im tellin you ive learned in books and some the hard way. nomatter what you do its gonna look sweet. Nothin like a long truck. Yours have an 8ft bed? Mine does. Im doin a 4wd conversion and gonna hopefully have it rollin on 40s by next summer.
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Yep! 8ft bed. You just can't beat the look of a truck that long. I am also doing the 4x4 conversion. D-60 front and rear with a 4-link style suspension for both, full interior cage with 5-point harnesses but nothing bigger than 35's or 38's at the most. I want lots of suspension travel without cuting fenders but keeping it turnable at decent speeds. I'm actually going to use "Rhino-Liner". You can't get it in a can. It is a poly-based coating that is sprayed out of a gun at 250 degrees F. I'm guessing you used Herculiner or some other type of roll-on stuff. Rhino-liner gets sprayed on to a thickness of 1/4 inch and is extremely tough and chemical resistant.
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2006
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From: Across from the neighbors
Hmm you might be right maybe it was herculiner. Anyhow, You building the 4 link by yourself? Im still up in the air about what suspension i wanna use. But it most likely will be Cage Offroad extended radius arms and 9" lift coils in the front and 9" lift springs in the rear.
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Yep. I have a full metal fab shop to play around in at my company. I'm not sure if I want to use leafs in the back and keep the load capacity or use Bilstein coilovers for travel. I have both already but just have not decided yet. I'm going to box the frame completely for strength. Designing a suspension system isn't hard, it just takes a lot of math and thought of design. Once I get it back from the body shop all shiny and straight, I will post some pics as I progress through the project. First though, I need to get rid of the other crewcab I have. I don't have a lot of room and it takes up a big spot.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2006
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From: Across from the neighbors
If you werent so far off id be willing to free up that space for you. Id like to have a crew or even supercab to make a work truck. Not to bash on and tear up but to make a haul/tow rig out of.
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It is a 1977. Brown and white f-350. If you have questions, just send me a PM because your not suposed to sell stuff on the forums. Some of the more veteran guys around here can get a little grumpy if you start talking about stuff for sale. No offense guys!
