Has anyone used one of the MSD ready to run Ford distributors, or do you know much about them? They don't require a control box, so they are quite economical when compared to the price of a billet distributor/6A combination. Is something significant being sacrificed to have this all-in-one package?

 

The main thing is that you can have the adjustability of an MSD distributor. You can easily tailor the mechanical advance curve by simply removing the cap, as opposed to removing the whole trigger assembly. A billet distributor and a 6A box will fire much hotter than your stock ignition, so there's power to be gained there. You'll pick up some power with the distributor alone, especially if you put the 2 silver light springs in it. It will be more expensive to use MSD's 6A box, but there is more power and efficiency in that combo. If you ever plan on using a 6A box, then it would be easiest to save up and buy them at the same time, that will make the wiring much easier. I run the pro-billet with vacuum advance ($259), and 6A ($131, last year, now they're $162), with a Blaster II ($28). I love this combo, it was very simple to install and runs great. With the entire combo, I picked up 2 MPG, and a bunch of performance, but I don't have any numbers to back up my performance gains. I did mine in stages, the first thing was the box/coil, and then I went back and did the distributor, and they run as if they were made for each other. With this combo, I've found the best spark plugs to use are Ford's own Motorcraft P/N 450's, and then gap them to .060". TK

'77 F100, 302 (the aftermarket Prodigy), C4
Cadet Second Lieutenant John F. Daly III
South Carolina Corps of Cadets, The Citadel
The TorqueKing

 

Thanks for the reply, TK.
What I am trying to find out is why go with the 6A if it isn't necessary? I have been out of hi-perf for a while. The last test I recall seeing was one testing GM's HEI with all the major aftermarket stuff. The aftermarket pieces showed either no improvements or a loss in some categories over the stock HEI. One brand showed something like a 2 HP improvement over 6800 RPM. I know a lot of people spend whatever they have to to squeeze every last ounce of power or economy out of their project, but I am value driven. The project I am working on will be a slightly modified, carbureted 351W in a '64 F100 2wd shortbox. I have a '95 351 fuelie to start with, and I don't have the control box that goes with the factory distributor. At $260, the MSD ready-to-run seems like quite a deal, and I don't ever see the need for a 6A box. Why would I need one? MSD has placed the electronics that they are comfortable with inside the distributor, right? I am not cheap, but I won't waste money either. I was originally planning on the billet dist and 6A when I saw this ready to run unit. It has been my experience with people that they seem to be proud of the fact that they have spent thousands of dollars on their vehicles for hi-tech stuff that really didn't produce a reasonable, cost effective improvement. They really get off when they open the hood of their vehicle and see all the gadgets there. They want that "race car" look, but don't have a race car. For a street driven vehicle, I don't subscribe to the "performance at any cost" mentality that seems to be sweeping the nation. Is there a logical reason to pick the 6A over a ready-to-run, other than the normal bragging rights that a lot of people have over how much they have spent on their trucks? What will this more expensive combo do for my vehicle that the ready-to-run won't? I don't know if anyone here can answer that question. I was thinking of contacting MSD, but they are sales oriented, and would definitely try to sway me towards a more expensive set-up than what my project needs. I also don't want to have buyers remorse, and wish I had gotten the 6A set-up instead. I don't have any first hand knowledge of these components, so I have to try and rely on the people here, and any additional un-biased sources I can locate.

 

Tim,

The art of budget performance is something that I'm getting into, especially of late. No need to describe the feeling of just having wasted money, been there, done that. I'll see if I can help you,

If you don't have the factory box, then you're gonna have to find a replacement, because the feature of the Ready-to-run is that it will plug right into your stock harness. If you don't have the box, then you won't have the harness that goes to the distributor, right? The fact is, the TFI system of the late model vehicles will work very well, but sometimes the cost of quality OEM replacement parts is questionable. I don't have my catalogue with me, but I think that the ready-to-run and the regular distributor are the same price, so if you go stock ignition, you'll have to get a stock box, because you said that it was missing. If you go that way, please don't buy one from AutoZone, I work there part-time during summertime, and I can assure you that the Wells products that are sold there are very cheap and unrealiable. NAPA sells the better kind, I can't remember the name of it though. The cost of going to the 6A is the cost of the box, $160, minus the cost of a replacement box. I've heard of those replacement boxes costing up to $110 in some cases. A cheaper box will surely get you what you paid for, so go with NAPA's, or a Ford Motorcraft part. I've only swapped MSD's onto older vehicles that had early Duraspark units, so I can tell you that an 6A control box makes a big improvement there. I've also done it on GM vehicles with HEI, and it really doesn't make much of a difference, except at very high RPM, because HEI is such a good system to begin with.

I really like what you were talking about with the "race car" undehood look. You are so right about people trying to look fast, but if your car doesn't go as fast as it looks, then you're instantly qualified as a "Rice boy" in my book! It's all about having a totally stock looking truck that hauls yours and kicks his! I don't have much room to speak, my engine compartment is dressed up neat and tidy, but I'll promise you that there's not a single performance sticker or even a hint (other than the exhaust pipes) of aftermarket speed or any intentional performance mod, and there never will be. I kinda like looking fast, but not on trucks, on Corvettes and the like. I like it when the rice boy's girlfriend is laughing at him because a totally stock looking (because looks really matter in that clique) F100 just blew his doors off.

Franklin2 has much more experience with TFI than I do though, when he chimes in he'll tell you more about the stock configuration than I can. What I know about stock TFI is mostly from looking at diagrams, so I'm not the man there. I've done many-an-MSD though! TK

 

I think you will see more gains by replacing the stock coil with a MSD since it fires hotter.That seems to be the consensus of people I know who have done both the coil and the box.

Billy

 

last fall i replaced the coil and stock box with the msd units. the only performance mods i had done then was the headers and exhaust. after the install i imediately noticed that the truck felt livelier, and faster. it didnt start any easier but its pretty easy to start anyways. the new intake and carb come close to feeling a difference in before and after preformance, but for the money i think the msd units were the best bang for the buck, i am going to save for the new dist soon.

1977 F250 460
C6 Hedman Headers
Dual 40 series
edelbrock performer
holley 4160
msd 6a and blaster coil

 

TK,
The MSD ready-to-run distributors do not require a factory control box, or any control box. They are completely self-contained units that only require an external coil. They were designed to replace both the Duraspark distributor and control box, or to replace older model Ford point style distributors. Drop in, attach three wires and go. I don't see what the combination of a 6A with a Pro-Billet distributor offers that this unit doesn't. The ready-to-run units (for street and occasional strip use) seem to be ideal. I am leaning that way unless someone can show me why it is inferior to the separate distributor/box combo. I have no problem with others NOT seeing a 6A box under my hood. The less there, the better. I just want to be sure I obtain the most practical/valuable parts for my vehicle without sacrificing performance or dependability.

 

That's good to hear, sounds like you got it figured out. As you can tell, I'm more familiar with the older V8 ignitions, so I hardly ever read about late model MSD distributors. I like the concept of a sleeper, even when you open the hood. I like to have an external appearance sleeper, but when I pop the hood, it's all over. TK

 

I'm glad I found this thread because I too share the "sleeper" thoughts. Question: does this line of reasoning on disributer, coil and MSD 6A's apply to later (95 5.8 tbi) engines as well? Or do I blow the bucks for the whole package?

Thanks.

 

Call MSD and ask, they have an awesome tech department. They're in the El Paso, Texas time zone. TK

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 16-Aug-02 AT 08:37 AM (EST)]FYI- MSD recommends a 6A with a SS Coil (8207) for this engine combo. No need to upgrade the plugs or wires - just good quality.
Thanks.

 

TK,

I know this is the wrong forum, but I can't seem to get an answer elsewhere. Do you know anything about C4's? Is the C4 from a 6 the same as a 302/351W? I have been told they will bolt up, but I don't want some inferior trans to start with. I will be doing a complete TCI Pro-Super kit to it, but I don't know if it may be a weaker case or have weaker parts because of the 6 cyl version. Any ideas? Know who I could ask?

Thanks

 

 

im gonna try msd ready to run next, one thing i do know for sure avoid accell,,,,,,im on my third try tomorro im taking it back gonna pay diff for msd!!! the first one i got didnt even have any contact point between the cap and rotor! not really sure about second one just didnt work,third is a complete dud! a kindergardner could wire one up! even direct from battery and .7 ohm 45000 volt msd coil it wont fire!with ready to run make sure you get a coil that is less than an onm resistance which is something i didnt realize was so important,but apparently will burn them up and the people at checker are not aware either. whats really strange is fact that the first distributor actually ran around the block once missing contact point between the cap and rotor.

 

We put a ready to run unit in a budy's Cuda. What MSD told us was the ready too run unit alone will not apply the mulitple sparks at lower rpm's.
You have to use the MSD box to get that.
Not saying it's Gosple but that's straight from an MSD Tech's mouth. lol
Clint