Road Trip From Hell, Top this one!!
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 2,647
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From: Fulltime RVer
Originally Posted by FN74
So, aside from all the other crap, what would cause a busted bolt and push rod for the same cylinder, different ports??? [img][/img]
Originally Posted by ernesteugene
If we're starting to consider effects down to the 0.001's of an inch, are any of the following possible contributors? (1) Is it possible that the stock hydraulic lifters are too weak for the "Comp Cam" valve springs which I'm assuming are considerably stiffer than stock? (2) Valve lash too loose might cause an ever so slight reduction of air flow in during exhaust/intake stroke or too tight a slight compression loss during compression/power stroke due to excessive overlap.
What's the procedure for adjusting valve lash. On my old 56 and 58 Chevy's, I recall running the engine with the valve covers off and adjusting the rockers to get the hydraulic lifters centered in their working range using a feeler gauge. Even with solid lifters on my race engines I always did a double check with the engine running. So how do you make sure the valve train is working ok on a diesel since you can't check it with the engine running?
What's the procedure for adjusting valve lash. On my old 56 and 58 Chevy's, I recall running the engine with the valve covers off and adjusting the rockers to get the hydraulic lifters centered in their working range using a feeler gauge. Even with solid lifters on my race engines I always did a double check with the engine running. So how do you make sure the valve train is working ok on a diesel since you can't check it with the engine running?
Originally Posted by ernesteugene
I just got a Haynes repair manual, and I checked it, and the pic below is all I could find on cam timing alignment. I can't find any mention of a procedure for adjusting the valve lash after a rebuild. It appears as though you just bolt everything back together and that's it? I'm still wondering if the stiffer valve springs used in the rebuild might have something to do with the problem?
Originally Posted by ernesteugene
Is that between 0.005 to 0.010 on each the head and the block or the total for both? If on each, that might've tightened the valve lash by as much as 0.020. I've confirmed that there's no way to adjust the valve lash on the 7.3L except to shorten the push rods! I was reading a thread on Dieselstop about bent pushrods, and a guy stated that if you deck the block and heads that you must compensate by grinding an equal amount off the pushrods. One would think that the hydraulic lifters would compensate for small amounts, and no #'s of thousandths were mentioned, but I thought I'd call this to your attention just in case.
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 555
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From: Cincinnati, Ohio
Originally Posted by FN74
Just got Back from quite possibly the worst trip ever [img][/img].
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Elder User
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 635
Likes: 0
From: New York
Good thing I have kids and did 7 years in the Navy, I have learned some self control. That and in the past when I start bashing parts, it seems like I always wind up the most damaged from it. 
. Being innovative comes easy, that is how I am even in business to begin with. But holy crap that was too much all at once. Right down to the flat tire. I left my bottle Jack at home, so to get the wheel off the ground I had to use my leveling blocks and stack those high enough to drive my front axle on to get the rear wheel off the ground. Man I know these problems are not normal, but it sure challenges my loyalty. Wife to me, and me to the truck.....
Ernest- I think you may be on to something there. I am doing to research on specs now, and trying to figure out if there is someway I could be losing some lift from my valves due to the stuff you mentioned. With the self adjusting lifters, I am not sure how, but who knows. It could even have something to do with the oil flow not being adequate to keep the lifters pumped up under load. My trip to denver at altitude made it clear that I am lacking low RPM airflow. While towing I had to turn my chip down to stock, wait for the truck to get moving, then turn it back up again. Otherwise the truck would just sit there and spew clouds of Black smoke. Once moving, then it performed more or less normal.
. Being innovative comes easy, that is how I am even in business to begin with. But holy crap that was too much all at once. Right down to the flat tire. I left my bottle Jack at home, so to get the wheel off the ground I had to use my leveling blocks and stack those high enough to drive my front axle on to get the rear wheel off the ground. Man I know these problems are not normal, but it sure challenges my loyalty. Wife to me, and me to the truck.....Ernest- I think you may be on to something there. I am doing to research on specs now, and trying to figure out if there is someway I could be losing some lift from my valves due to the stuff you mentioned. With the self adjusting lifters, I am not sure how, but who knows. It could even have something to do with the oil flow not being adequate to keep the lifters pumped up under load. My trip to denver at altitude made it clear that I am lacking low RPM airflow. While towing I had to turn my chip down to stock, wait for the truck to get moving, then turn it back up again. Otherwise the truck would just sit there and spew clouds of Black smoke. Once moving, then it performed more or less normal.
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 555
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From: Cincinnati, Ohio
Originally Posted by FN74
But holy crap that was too much all at once. Right down to the flat tire. I left my bottle Jack at home, so to get the wheel off the ground I had to use my leveling blocks and stack those high enough to drive my front axle on to get the rear wheel off the ground.
More Turbo
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 509
Likes: 3
From: Findlay, Il
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FN ,my hat is off to yah....Country
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Elder User
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 635
Likes: 0
From: New York
Originally Posted by tommyl
I need your phone #! Looks like you can come up with some pretty good ideas in a pinch.
. I am good at fixing stuff, and even better at breaking it which gives me a pretty well rounded ability. For example, so far on my truck I have done the following:Replaced both Front hub assemblies,
Installed 05 nose and badges
Dynomatted complete inside, including doors
Installed DVD NAV system
Overhead DVD player
10k mod
Manual TC lockup
Replaced ALL tie rods
Replaced Steering Gear Box with RedHead Unit.
Installed Tuff Country leveling kit
Removed Tuff Country(threw it away) and installed Revtek Lift Kit
Busted Rear Spider Gear- Installed Detroit TrueTrac
Installed 4.56 gears in Oklahoma
Replaced Transmission. 3 Times
Replaced Motor. 3 Times
Replaced Turbo. Can now R&R turbo in less then an hour.
Replaced All U-Joints
Replaced Front Axle, Passenger Side
R&R Front Axle bearing inside bearing assembly
Replaced busted Flywheel while on a road trip.
In Tank Mods
Custom Fuel System
Replaced all sway bar bushings
Removed all upholstery from seats and washed, then reinstalled
Bunch of engine stuff
That just off the top of my head, I am sure I could go through my maintenance book and find some more stuff I have done and forgot. So if there is anyone in the area who wants a helping hand, or my experiance with a particular product, let me know!! Chances are I have done, broke it, or thought about it.
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 11,892
Likes: 2
From: Middle Tennessee
Originally Posted by FN74
Good thing I have kids and did 7 years in the Navy, I have learned some self control.
My trip to denver at altitude made it clear that I am lacking low RPM airflow. While towing I had to turn my chip down to stock, wait for the truck to get moving, then turn it back up again. Otherwise the truck would just sit there and spew clouds of Black smoke. Once moving, then it performed more or less normal.
My trip to denver at altitude made it clear that I am lacking low RPM airflow. While towing I had to turn my chip down to stock, wait for the truck to get moving, then turn it back up again. Otherwise the truck would just sit there and spew clouds of Black smoke. Once moving, then it performed more or less normal.
A few notes, gloves work well on the stock jack handle and I always have a pair in the truck. Of course I'm wearing a bandaid now but for a stupid XBox360 ring of death light repair mod I'm currently still trying to repair. $400 POS. My son's item so no emergency.
IIRC there is a baro sensor. I think yours is not located in the PCM like the later 7.3s and I'm beginning to wonder if your higher altitude probs are not from a faulty unit there.
I don't think there is a lash adjustment on hydro lifters but it has been a long time since I dealt with that. It should be torque and go. You could have a bad lifter though, but I have never run across that, doesn't mean it can't happen. Sounds like it pumped up well though so your hardware must have come loose, just my guess. Glad no damage.
I am looking at a 2k round trip here in about a couple of weeks. Don't like to see this kinda thing. I still havn't decided on whether to take the 150 or my 350.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 25,090
Likes: 1,112
From: Rio Rico, AZ.
Originally Posted by Tenn01PSD350
A few notes, gloves work well on the stock jack handle and I always have a pair in the truck. Of course I'm wearing a bandaid now but for a stupid XBox360 ring of death light repair mod I'm currently still trying to repair. $400 POS. My son's item so no emergency.
.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 11,892
Likes: 2
From: Middle Tennessee
Originally Posted by Kwikkordead
I just heard on the news that Microsoft is extending the warrenty for the Xbox due to an unusual number of meltdowns.