Great Forum, have found so many answers I haven't had to ask any questions, yet....

Have 69 F250 w/360. Autolite Distributor is stamped D0TF - K. Noticed that the (single) vaucuum advance was leaking and found I can get a replacement for that but it got me thinking about what I would have to do if other parts needed be replaced.

Searching the forum threads indicates it's Dura Spark but I can't yet tell which. Doesn't have the extra module of the later EEC system (DS III?). My module has one connector with 5 wires. DS I and DS II appear to have 2 connectors and 7or 6 wires. Ignition module (gold-ish box, 4" x 2 1/2" x 1 1/4") has nothing more than a stamping 30 5 on the top foot. Rather than a blue or brown grommet there's a black (or very dirty) band.

Wiring is simpler than any of the diagrams I find for DS I, II or III. 2 wires to dizzy, 2 to coil (Bat and Dist) and one to ground.

Seems to work just fine, but what is it?

 

69 should have had points. It sounds like you have an aftermarket electronic ignition of some sort. I have seen boxes like you describe, and they were an early cd unit, some of them were kits like a Heathkit that you soldered together yourself. And others were an off brand that somebody like JCWhitney used to sell.

 

Dave - I think you are right with the aftermarket description. It explains a number of other things and gives me some options if various parts begin to act up.

It looks like the "kit" was ment to be dropped in with minimal modifications. It looks like the original wiring was used and is still intact and undisturbed. They may have retained the original coil, there's still a condenser attached but unconnected since it was un-necessary (and now I don't have to wonder why there's a disconnected condensor anymore...).

With respect to options...

1 - I guess in any event I could probably simply re-install a standard ignition distributor and even use the existing coil/condensor. The wiring is there, should be simple and I don't mind points.

2 - Replace existing with real Dura Spark II (seemed many in forums think this is a good way to go vs. other electronic aftermarket chioces).

This (I suppose) would involve replacing the ignition module, the electronics in the distrib (or would the distrib have to change?), running a red wire to the run terminal of the ignition switch and a white wire probably to the starter relay.

3 - Since it ain't broke, don't fix it (always a good choice), but if the coil goes bad it does seem to be standard and easy to replace. I guess if the distributor had mechanical problems, I could get a new body or whatever and move the electronic guts over. If the electronics go bad I'd have to pick option 1 or 2.

Just thinking out loud, any other options out there? Any thing wrong with 1,2,or 3?

Thanks
Bill P

 

I would have thought the dist you have is the original point type with the points still in there correct?

If that's the case, and the box went bad, all you would have to do is move the coil negative wire from the box, over to the points wire coming out of the dist. Make sure the condensor is still inside the distributor, and it should run as original, though you may have to make sure you still have a resistance wire on the coil +. To check this, with the engine running, you should have something less than 12 volts on the coil +(something like 8 or 8 volts). They may have cut it out or bypassed the resistance for the aftermarket module.

If you have the stock dist like I suspect, then you could also get a pertronix unit and stick it in there. Very easy, two wire connection, and you can still carry the points in the glove box in case something went wrong out on the road.

 

Dave - The distributor actually has stator and armature (no points/ condensor....) that made me think it was Dura Spark in the first place. But now I'm thinking that the aftermarket kit included stator, armature and whatever else to convert a points distributor to a point-less. The D0TF Distrib has a date code 9G24 which I think decodes to July 24 1969. That would seem to be too early for breakerless wouldn't it?

I had checked earlier to see if I still had the resistor wire by connecting voltmeter to the dist + and putting the ignition switch in the run position. I saw only 8 volts so I'm thinking the resistor wire is there.

The puzzle now is that as I read your reply I thought I'd go out and confirm the 8 volts with the engine running rather than simply the switch in the run position. It went to 12 volts for the start as expected, but then it stayed at 12v.

I thought that maybe the starter relay "I" terminal might be sticking on but I disconnected that at the starter relay and it continued to run 12 volts at Dist + (in fact the engine would even start without the connection at the "I" terminal which is another puzzle.)

The aftermarket module only has 5 wires: 2 go to the distributor, a ground goes to the block, one wire goes to dist(-) and one direct to dist(+) where it ties to the original ignition wire which seems to have the resistor wire. There's no connection to a 12 volt source so how does dist(+) get to 12v??? Magic?

At any rate, runing 12v doesn't seem to hurt the coil it looks like it's been there since whenever it had points and the module look looks like it's been there for decades...

Actually, already running a pertronix in a 71 MG Midget for the past year or so and like it a lot. Would be a good choice.

The current aftermarket box is a puzzle, but it works well, can't complain.

Bill P