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I have an 88 F250, 351W EFI 4WD. I replaced the rear brakes over the weekend (shoes, cylinders, springs) and the rear oil seals (very easy on a full floating axle). When I tested the parking brake though, the cables just seized up as soon as I pushed the pedal down. So, now I am going to replace the praking brake cables.
Have any of you done this before? Is this going to be as easy as disconnecting the cables from the lever in the drum and at the other end? Anyone run into any problems doing this in the past?
I am jsut trying to get a feel for how much is involved in this job (can I do it in a half a day, etc).
IIRC, there are 3 cables. 1 comes from the cab and attaches to the 2 cables going to the wheels. Maybe just one of them is froze up. That junction is located on the driverside about half way between the rear axle and the driver seat. Take it apart at the junction and see if it's just the front cable or one of the others.
You need to disassemble the rear brakes to get the cables out of the backing plates. They are about 20-25$ apiece.
yeah, I know that at least both of the rear cables are frozen. I am assuming that the front is also frozen.
I am planning on just buying all three of the cables and dropping them in. I knew they were $25 each, but I don't have too much choice.
I don't have the original adjuster anymore. The maleable metal piece went south on me, and the treaded rod snapped while I was trying to remove the rusted nut. I have a jury rigged POS in there now, but I think it will work. But, since the cables also seem REALLY stretched out, I figure it's time to replace them.
Do the cables come inside a sheath, or am I supposed to thread the cables through my rusty housings? To disconnect the cables from the lever in the drum is it simply compressing the spring on the cable a little and sliding the end piece out?
The new cables come complete ready to install with all ends fitted. You will have to remove the shoes again and as you say, compress the spring on the shoe end of each cable and slide the old cable out. Same when fitting new one. When you have disconnected the inner cable from the shoe grab the outter cable just behind the outside of the backing plate and pull hard and it will pull streight out.
yeah, I know that at least both of the rear cables are frozen. I am assuming that the front is also frozen.
I am planning on just buying all three of the cables and dropping them in. I knew they were $25 each, but I don't have too much choice.
I don't have the original adjuster anymore. The maleable metal piece went south on me, and the treaded rod snapped while I was trying to remove the rusted nut. I have a jury rigged POS in there now, but I think it will work.
You asked about the original adjuster parts, and I posted the part numbers of what was needed in the thread where you asked the question. As original, the cables come in sheafs.
lazy k, thanks. I wasn't sure if there were going to be any tricks or not. Anything special about the front cable?
number dummy -- I called my ford dealer and got transfered to the parts department and waited for 10 minutes of ringing. I haven't called back yet to see how much they will run me (I am expecting ~$50 for the tensioner). I am going to see if my rigged setup will work with new cables, since these are obviously bad.
I can't find the part in any of the online sites. The rock auto has some cheap parts, but no one but ford carries the adjuster for the parking brake. I don't know why.
Number Dummy -- those Ford sites (the sponsors) charge at least double what rock auto charges. Do we get a 50% discount for FTE members? Otherwise, yes, I will go outside of Ford to save 50% on my parts.