AMEN to your statement "We are the land of the free BECAUSE of the brave!
Thanks to all Vets, past, present, and future." I will echo that till I die. I post it also everywhere, whenever I have the chance.


I think we may pick up the toybox Saturday. Update to follow on the performance issues.

 

Nope...my point is 2 8000 loads on the same truck, with different aerodymanics, will get different mileage.

 

if I have 8000 lb behind my truck will get 10 mpg or less never tried it in the bed

 

As someone mentioned, the weight isn't all the battle. The wind load can be your worst enemy. Comparing my camp trailers and other things over the years, from short stubby things to 29 feet or running with/without my canopy on, I've seen a best of 22mpg empty to 15mpg towing across the North Cascade passes. That with an 04' 6L, with ZF6spd.

I don't expect you'll get that peak mpg with a 7.3, but over the years, people have said that the 7.3 actually gets better fuel economy than a 6.0 when towing just because the the torque band/differences when compared to the 6.0. The 6.8 and 5.4 are going to be different. As well as driving style.

You said 65mph... ish... With a good running engine, I would think you should be able to hold 15mpg with a nominal wind load on the flats at sea level-ish altitudes. Put the canopy on the truck for a more streamlined air effect for a little more mpg.

Put a 5.4 at atlitude, and the Diesels with turbos will out haul and get twice the fuel economy.

I've had good towing trips, and not so good when related to fuel economy. Lynden, WA, Truck loaded with camping gear with 25' 6,500 pound camp trailer to Post Falls, ID. Some 15.6mpg. Same rigs later that year hunting... Lynden to Colville, WA. 14.2mpg.. 1/3 of the latter route was a twisty back road system. On and off the throttle.

Your mileage may vary.

I was in your same dillema recently. Just upgraded the camp trailer to 29 feet and a couple more thousand pounds. I expect my towing fuel economy to drop just a little bit... But not much. I've tow'd it on short trips and can tell the difference. Long haul is coming next week..

-Steve

 

with the trucks I have been around and the people I have talked to have never seen a lot of difference between a 6.0 and 7.3 in mpg

a good running 7.3 SRW 3.73 gear will get as high as 22 mpg normally 20
with DRW 4.10 gear 17+ normally 16.5 to 17 some in 15s
my highest in mountains 19 with DRW 4.10 interstate 16.7 around town 14.5

if I ever see either getting 14.5 pulling 6000 lb will be looking for something pulling or pushing it

 

"if I ever see either getting 14.5 pulling 6000 lb will be looking for something pulling or pushing it"

Have you ever experienced 8% grades on passes more than 8,000 feet? A quartering cross/head wind of 40-50+mph for 300 miles at a time?

That'll take your fuel economy down in a jiffy.

In the summer, I average 18mpg with my rural to town commute with an empty truck. On Interstate 5 from B.C. to Tacoma, I've had 22mpg several times empty. I know a lot of 6.0's that won't do that. And a good many 7.3's that won't either. With a 6.0, or 7.3, and 3.73's, 15mpg towing less than 15,000 pounds is realistic, with some routes and driving style that will grant more, or less. Like I said, it's not all about the weight, The wind load plays a large factor.

-Steve

 

Does anybody think that one of the airfoils/spoilers is worth putting on the cab ? how much would it really help. Aerodynamics is Aerodynamics but at 65 mph.....??

 

That's a good question.. I was also considering putting one on my truck when I pull the toy hauler... Anyone have any insite on this one?

 

fifth wheels are the nicest trailers to tow. becuase you got the load on the axle and not on the rear of the truck. and when tractor trailers go by you cant feel no sway none like a regular trailer. and when i use to tow with my chevy before i got my ford i was going about 85-90 on the highway before and i forgot i was pulling it.

 

Just thought I'd chime in with something not mentioned to date. Having heard a lot on the boards about trailer tire failures...

thought I'd mention that ST rated tires are ONLY good for sustained speeds of UP to 65 miles an hour. Most of the manufactures have a caveat to the effect that you may at your option increase pressure by up to 10% over the max cold inflation marked on the tire. If you do this, you will be ok up to about 70MPH. Oh, notice I did mention COLD tire pressure? From reading the forums here and on RV sites it looks like some people are checking the tires after running for more than a few minutes/miles and are deflating to the max cold pressure... don't! It's a sure way to get severe tire damage!!

 

I specifically ordered 5200 pound axles with uprated trailer tires (on 6-lug rims) just to avoid any trailer blowouts. I was given a heads up on another board about this, to watch for other cargo trailers with blown tires, you will almost always see they have the base axles with the lightweight 5 lug rims.

 

Redford, I assume then that your trailer tires are not ST?

 

After years of towing, I have learned a couple details that have saved my rear more than once ...

- always carry at least 2 trailer spares. If one goes, more often than not the other will too or will be damaged.

- carry a jack that will actually lift your trailer when LOADED. A 2 ton aluminum racing jack won't lift a 4800# trailer, loaded with 1000# of stuff and hauling a 3000# car. I now carry a Trailer Aid tire ramp and use my jack to help if needed.

 

Great advice Mitch... I do the same as well.. It always happens at the most unconvienent TIME! Like on the highway doing 70MPH..!! Or on a back road at night..