Ok i'v got a 2wd 93 f150 I6 with the m5od and iv been having a few problems.

#1- For the past couple of months the tuck has been bucking in 1st and 2nd while accelerating. It would throw a CEL every once in while and would give me these codes.
KOEO
179- (CARS ONLY): Fuel System at lean adaptive limit at partial throttle/ system rich.
332- Insufficient EGR flow detected.
KOER
173- HEGO (HO2S) sensor fault/rich

I had heard that it could be the EGR valve so i pulled it off and checked it and cleaned it and it was fine. I also replaced the O2 sensor. After that it was fine for a while, it didnt throw the CEL or buck as often as it did till recently.

Earlier today it threw a CEL but i havent had a chance to check it, but i had some one tell me to check the TPS. Could this be causing the bucking. He said to check the voltage at the sensor but im not 100% sure how to do that. I dont think that, thats it but I figure i can atleast check it and see.

Problem #2
the cruise contol just stopped working. Iv checked the fuses under the dash and under the hood.

Any help with trouble shooting would be nice. I need a place to start. Just trying to figure out if its not getting power or if a switch has gone out or a servo or somthing.


This is kinda my first chance to really work on the truck and im trying to get some of the stuff fixed that need to be fixed.

Thanks for any help

 

The bucking sounds like its being caused by bad EGR valve. You might want to just replace it and see what happens, they aren't SUPER expensive. Good luck.

-Chris

 

Does the horn work?

If not it's the Clock Spring under the steering wheel.

It's kind'a like a old horn contact.

 

Yes the horn does work. Is there any way to check the Clock Spring. I thought about it being the switch becasue i heard that they can go out on some thread along time ago.


As for the EGR. I guess i can go ahead and replace it. I hate throwing parts at a problem. But It seems that theres a good chance that, thats whats causing it. I wish where was a good way to check. I tried taking off the vac line and that didnt do anything. and i also cleaned it and replaced the gasket.

Ill go ahead and pull the codes and see what it says before i do anything else. I'll post them i just a little while.

 

Ok i went and read the codes. The only one it was givin me was 179-(CARS ONLY): Fuel System at lean adaptive limit at partial throttle/ system rich. Why is it giving me that? Its strange.

So i guess ill replace the EGR.

Ok thanks.

 

Alot of people also like to put a restrictor plate in line with the EGR. I thought I was having trrouble with my ride so I did that. It didn't really help me (turns out my battery cable wasn't connected all that well). But, almost EVERYONE else posted that it makes a huge difference. Pretty much you cut a piece of sheet metal (aluminum) to the same size as the gasket for the EGR. But, instead of the large (3/4 inch or whatever) opening for airflow, you drill a 1/4 or 1/8 inch hole. So, you are in effect restricting the amount of exhaust that runs back into the truck.

I would also try resetting the chip by disconnecting the battery for a while (like 30 min or something) and then reconnecting. I like to reset the 'learned' behavor of the truck every once in a while. That way, any drift in the sensors is accounted for when the truck is restarted. I don't know that this helps, but in my head I always feel better after doing this.

Just to be safe, check an make sure that your battery ground calbe is good and is snug on the exhaust manifold. If not, replace it. I threw ALOT of parts at a similar problem only to find a stripped bolt on my negative battery cable at the manifold.

 

I havent had a chance to do anything on the truck because its raining, again. And im still not totally sure that the EGR is whats causing my problems. And i dont really want to throw a 150 bucks at it and have it not do anything.

I'v heard of the restrictor plate deal, but i heard that if you take off the green vac hose and tape it off that it will close the valve. So i tried that and it didnt really do any thing. So that makes me think its not the EGR.

Is there a possibility that it could be a spark and distributer issue. I dont think that its ever been rebuild and a new cap, rotor and capacitor arnt that expensive and would be pretty simple.

Ill check all my battery connections and make sure that there all tight.

Any ideas about the cruise control issue.

Thanks for any help. It look like the rain is letting up so i might have a chance to work on it a little.

 

$150 for an EGR valve?! Try ebay. Sounds to me like you're looking in the wrong places... On rockauto you can get an acdelco for $75. Look around.

But you said you checked the EGR valve already. What exactly did you check and what makes you think its good?

-Chris

 

As for the cruise control, have you had the recall taken care of? It could be the pressure on the master cylinder. Are all your brake lights working properly?

 

check out www.fordfuelinjection.com
lots of info on test procedures and sensors

 

Ok, sorry its taken a while for me to get back. But its been raining and the 4th and all that good stuff and i haven't had much time to work on it.

I'll keep looking to see if i can find an egr valve some where cheaper. When i posted i hadn't had much of a chance too look and that was one of the first prices i got. When i said i checked it what i mean is that i pulled the vac line off the valve. This closes the valve. And sense the bucking and having a rough idle wasnt affected then the egr is fine. I also pulled the egr valve off and cleaned it, and pulled a vac on it and it seemed to open and close freely.

Ok now for the cruise control. I have no clue whether or not the recall has been serviced on the truck. i'v had the truck for 4 years and about 30,000 miles. And i havent had it done. Is there any way to tell whether or not its been done.

Edit: Forgot to tell ya that yes the brack lights work fine, i'v never had a problem with them.

I also have a question about running electric trailer brakes. Did these trucks come from the factory with the wiring already run for the controllers. I already have a 6 way plug with short leads but there not hooked up(i added the plugs, their not factory). And id hate to run them all the way to the cab only to find out their already there.

 

Look at the wire plugged into the front of master CYL if the wire looks like it was cut and a piece from other harness wired in its had recall done . But you can check on Line about recalls. As for the Cruise is self . Check all wires connections , and fuses and switches in steering wheel ( had then fail ), all good ? It may be bad box mounted to fender buy fuse box.
GOOD LUCK LOST

 

Answering your question about the trailer lights....you can go to any parts store and find the ford pigtail adapter for it...I did this for mine...it was only like 12 bucks....you look under the truck and more towards the driver side and you'll see where the rear taillights plug into each other....just clean up the connections unplug them and tbhis pigtail adapter goes right in between....lemme take some pics.....

 

Again im sorry its taken me a little while to get back to yall.

ok i had a chance to do a little work on the cruise, and iv checked the plug going into the control box under the hood and the plug behind the steering wheel. Iv also checked all the fuses.

I also looked at the switch on the master cylinder and it doesn't look like its ever been messed with or spliced. So im thinking that it was never taken in for the recall. Could it be that switch is stuck and telling the system that the brakes are applied?

Thunder, thanks, I already have a in line t for the lights. and then it goes to a mounted hook up for both flat 4 wire and and a 7 way plug. The flat 4 and the 7 way mount has a lead that goes to the 4 flat in line t, and thats how i get my lights. Then it has leads for reverse, 12+, and electric brakes. Im wandering if there is already a plug under the dash for the brake controller and if it runs leads toward the rear of the truck.

Ill see if i can work on it tomorrow some. Thanks for all the help. Keep it coming.

 

Is there a possibility that it could be a spark and distributer issue. I dont think that its ever been rebuild and a new cap, rotor and capacitor arnt that expensive and would be pretty simple.


Replacing the cap,and rotor are not part of a distributor rebuild, they are part of routine normal tune up. Cap, rotor, wires, plugs, pcv valve, and new air filter are probably the first place you should start on this truck.
Good luck Frank