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So, I'm thrilled to have "Bonnie" (72 F100) home now ; see pictures on my gallery.
I have replaced the battery and all the spark plugs and suprisingly she started! Not nicely or anywhere close to nice, but she started!
I know the following steps are what I have to do next:
1. Empty all the old fluids, add new.
2. Change the oil filter
3. Change the dist. & plug wires
... anything else under the hood right off the bat?
Unfortunately the back tires are locked up (possibly due to rust?). I used an x-wrench on the lug nuts and gave each nuts everything I had but did not budge any of them. Suggestions? What am I likely to find that has locked the rear brakes up??
rust,rust and more rust will lock up brake drums when they sit for a long time. get ya a nice 3lb hammer and beat and bang on it for a day they''ll come lose. i use a heavy screwdriver and wege it between the drum and back plate to put a lil tention on the drum. ya might have to tap on the axle center to get to come loose also or heat it up with a thorch. if the studs are all rusted and just about junk just snap them off and replace them.there cheap
Easy way to bust those brakes loose is to start it up and stick it in gear. Just be sure nothing is in front or back in case it brakes loose suddenly and it don't stop.
if your lucky itll move!! lots a luck if it does move ill bet ya a c-note youll be getin a big hammer to get the drums off anyway new fluid wont get rust outa there
get the hammer, and if you still cant get the wheels off at least, theres this wonderful stuff called "PB BLASTER" you can use for the lug nuts. you can get it at most any auto parts store. you could probably shoot some of that stuff in the drums too before you start bangin on em. might free stuff up a little.
Use a "little heat" with a rather large propane torch not those HomeDepot home handy units, heat the lug nuts to the point the PB Blaster just begins to boil and no more repeat no more! Repeat a couple times a day for a couple days they will break loose without snapping off the studs.
Crack open the wheel cylinders your brakes may release. Possibly the master cylinder plunger isn't retracting fully not allowing the port to be exposed for fluid return due to rust and crap like the wheel cylinders. To be safe a good time to replace master and all wheel cylinders with brake caliper plus new shoes or pads if you have disc brakes. Change all flexable lines.
Give it time better than snapped wheel studs.
Same applied heat and tap with hammer to get the drums off the studs and axle flange, sounds like the PO didn't apply anti-seize compound to anything.
Last edited by "Beemer Nut"; Jul 4, 2007 at 01:33 PM.
well, i took the right rear wheel off and took a look for the 1st time @ the true extent of the rust damage.
I could NOT get that drum off. Neither could my neighbor Mike.
HELP!
Good news though, my friend Jesse let me know that he has a power wrench I can use to try on the 2 tires (back left and front right) that I cannot get off yet! I'll be trying that tommorrow.
How do I get these drums off? What are the options!?
I've got the right rear drum loose around the edges but the center is still on there solid. I'm taking my time but will soon (maybe this wknd) buy that 4lbs. + hammer and beat the H out of it.
Then, assuming I can break it free, I'll do the same on the rear left.
Wish me luck... sigh. If I get a drum off I'll post a picture
I tried to get the rear drums off my truck for three days. Finally I said the heck with it and made two or three quick passes with my torch around center hole and it drew itself off the axle. I did not have to heat them very much. No need to get them red.
Later when ya go back together apply some dry film moly spray to the hub/flange faces as well the contact area on the drums.
Mask off the drums as you do not want any moly sprayed on the brake surface.
Years later the drums will come off pulling by hand.