Does anyone know if IP upgrades that you can do to flow more fuel (without sending it to a performance shop) That is beside turning up the fuel screw?

Thanks Adam

 

Unless you know exactly what you are doing, and have test equipment to recalibrate the IP, they are best left alone internally.

One small mistake may mean the engine starts, goes wide open and does not stop revving up at 3300 RPM.

I would say about the time it hit 6000 RPM, "catastrophic engine failure" would have a new meaning for anyone within a 100 yards or so.

 

Thanks I was figuring that. Make me kinda mad that the cummins guys can do so many cheap mods to older trucks and well i can't. O well she runs great though

 

Yup, that cummins pump......you can fine tune it and it has settings for different situations. My brother has a '92 1-ton that he brags about. I ignore him.

 

Yeah it is easy to make 300hp out of a cummins with just a fuel plate turning the boost up and timing or DV's.

 

You ever drive a Cummins?

I have driven enough of them to know I am happy with my IDI.

 

I rode in my brothers cummins before......Id rather ride a bucking bronco. That thing jarrs the **** out of you. The seat seems to be the only suspension there is on that thing.

 

Really thats not good. No i was going to get a Cummins engine to put into my ford but the deal never went through. So know i am going to do what Dave did (after i get done fixing 2 other trucks hopefully). I was wondering Dave if 300 rwhp is possibly with just shaving .02 off the pistons, ATS Wastgated turbo, timing, and dps stage 1 injectors. As for a tranny i am going to eventually get a built E4OD but for now i am going to have to stick with my C6. But do you think that is a good goal and plausable to shoot for?

Thanks Adam

 

I have no idea what the HP or torque is.
All I can say is it is enough for me.

Numbers really mean nothing as far as I am concerned, what makes a difference is when you put a load on it and drop the hammer.

I already know what I can do to a driveshaft, U joints and a transfer case.
What is the use to have nine zillion HP if all you do is break driveline stuff faster than you can replace it?

Yes you cvan stick a Cummins in there and crank the HP and torque numbers out of sight with enough money.
But everytime you mash the loud pedal you break something.

Sorta like my buddy down the road.
Put a 3408 Cat motor in an F 350.
Had to make driveshafts to go between the Clark 5 speed that would bolt up to the motor and the transfer case.

Sounded real cool with that Cat engine in it.
HP numbers were not great, but the torque was over 1000 foot pounds.
The 2100 RPM governed engine speed meant he could only run 48 MPH wide open with 4.10 gears.
But every time he mashed the throttle, the torque broke something and he had to be towed home.
After a while he got tired of spending money every time he drove it and he took the motor back out.

Remember that getting the HP out of the engine is only the start.
Once you get big numbers out of the engine, the rest of the driveline will fail.

Right now I am due for another drive shaft.
I can pull the U joint caps out of the yokes without using tools other than to get the C clips out.
So that means time to run down to the machine shop and drop another 350 dollars on a drive shaft.

Just remember, If you want to play, you have to pay.
The 4000 dollars in my engine was only the start of what I pay.
Run it hard, you are looking at 8 MPG.
Run it hard, you are also looking to spend money on the driveline somewhere.

 

Dodge Cummins vs Ford IDI-

In '94 when the new generation Dodge trucks came out, we were tempted to trade in our then eight-year-old Ford F-250HD. One of the reasons we bought the '86 was that it was the best riding 4x4 3/4-ton pickup we had looked at back then. Ride quality was important to my wife, who has neck issues. The coil spring front end of the Dodge got me to thinking that maybe it might be our new Huckleberry. We went to the dealer and spec'ed out a Dodge. The nearly $30K price tag made my vision swim a bit (since we had paid just $12K for a nearly new '86 Ford). The Dodge we looked at had more bells and whistles than our old Ford, though it was by no means a top-o-the-line model. When we took it for a ride, we knew within two miles that the Ford was staying. The Dodge's ride was poor enough to make you wish for a mouthpiece and a chinstrap. My turbocharged IDI had blown away enough of the earlier Cummins trucks pulling the high passes of Colorado that I wasn't overly impressed with the stock power... so no sale! And 13 years later, here we are with the same truck. I'm not stupid enough to say I wouldn't trade my old Ford on a new(er) truck if I had the bucks, but this old Ford does everything I need and to buy something new that could replace it would cost $35K. Again, no sale.

 

I understand i have to rebuild the engine in my truck since i am not going to get a cummins and i was wanting to make a little more power. As far as i go will probably head studs, shave .001 off pistons, ATS Turbo Kit, DPS stage 1 injectors, timing. I talked to Ken at DPS and he said that would probably aroud 240 hp at the crank.

I do not pull hardly at all so i am not sure how often i am going to break anything in the driviline or would i without pulling anything?

Thanks for the help guys

 

I can break.....no I have broken several front axle shafts plowing snow.
I have also twisted several U joints plowing snow.

So other than the plow weight as extra weight, I can break driveline parts on ice covered roads.
Yes I am also pushing the snow, but the truck is still on a snow or ice covered surface.

Dry pavement or packed dirt gives you a lot more traction than ice or snow covered pavement does.


Only .001 off the piston will hardly make it worth setting them up in a milling machine.
Mine are .020 off the crown, drops the compression ratio to 20.25 to 1.
Also helps with EGT's.

 

Ok that helps becuase Ken from DPS was saying anything below 19:1 then you will need either to start it. I was also thinknig the compressions was 20.7:1 so now i know it is over 22:1 then taking .020 off the crown of the piston should be just about right then.

 

.020 off should put you at 20.25 to 1 if you use Sealed Power Hypereutectic pistons.

I have started at 7 below zero with just glow plugs, but the engine was rather contrary.

I had to hit the manual glow plugs 3 or 4 times after it started just to keep it running for the first two minutes.

Plug in the block heater a couple hours before starting, hit the glow plugs and she fires right up at 15 below.

 

Well i live in Arizona and we hardly ever see any temps below 32 so i am sure i should never have to use the block heater and i am sure the block heater has little to no use on the engine right now. So it shouldn't be a big problem starting on even our coldest days. Could you possible give me a website dave that has the pistons and the sku number or something so i get the right ones you got so when i take .020 off i am not taking off from a piston that is smaller?

Thanks i appreciate all the help i have been deciding which way to go cummins or ford engine, and i finally decided with just rebuilding my ford engine so just thanks for helping me learn new things and ideas.