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I have an 82 ford f100 with auto trans c6. The man I bought it from said that the fly wheel has a bad spot on it. He said that he has changed it once or twice. So confident that I could remedy the problem, we picked up a new starter and flywheel. After the swap, it made a loud and fast grind noise. But it did start the truck. Since I have have had only "new" autos for the last 15 years, I have lost my shade tree mechanics edge. The starter makes noise like the teeth are just not going in right. Sometimes it will grind and then start turning.
I took the sarter off and the face of the teeth are being hit just a little and are getting worn off.
The flywheel and starter we bought was for an 82 ford. But guess what. The engine has been overhauled. And I don't know if it is the origional engine or not. So I dont know what year to ask for parts.
How do I determine the correct flywheel, starter combo. If this is the right combo, then what do I do?
Make sure you have the right number of teeth for your flexplate and the correct balance for the 302. You will need to know the year of the 302 since some of them used a 28 1/2 oz imbalance while others used a 50 oz imbalance.
I want to thank mil1ion for his help. The results, '73 302, wrong starter. Now I guess I will go get the proper starter, and hope that the flexplate is right. The flexplate in it was right for an '82 ford. We will see.
Ok, we pulled 2 starters at the parts place, and the only difference was the size of the hump on the silinoid. (yea grammer sucks I know) The one stated for auto had a high profile "hump" on the case and mine had a low profile hump. The cone on the end and the "bendix" was exactly the same. So My final conclusion it that the missing link is the flexplate, it has to be different. The parts store did have two different #s. If that dont do it, I may just put her to the curb and sell her. I could cut a hole into the bellhousing where I can watch it spin,,,just kidding.
Really, I hate to spend a lot of time working an issue like this, but it really does suck.
Any thoughts welcome. email dewayne@cooke.net
Dennis, thanks again for your help. Any interest in the old time radio shows, just let me know.
I dont remember if it could be put on wrong or not. My father has done stuff like this more than I have, and he said it is on correctly.
I am not sure how I can tell how far out the starter gear is going.
Is there a spacer of any kind that goes between the flexplate and the crankshaft? My fathers question. He seems to think that between a standard and automatic, one of them takes a shim. If that is it and I am missing it, that would compute.
What are some good web pages to do my homework on, besides the auto store online sites?
Here is what a guy posted on another board....
If you had a man. starter on a auto that is the main problem they do have different throws of the starter drive!!!!!!! now as far as the flexplate goes what you need is a 164 tooth 14.230 OD flexplate with a 28oz balance !!!!!!I've been bounceing different years and applications off NAPA online for the last hour and the part # should be a NAPA 6005009!!!!!! By the "82" 302 it comes up with a 50 oz flexplate !!!!!! this would shake the heck out of your 73 302 !!!!!!!!!!thanks for the challenge!!!!!!!!!!!Wanted
There is a possibility that the flexplate needs a shim, but I haven't a clue what that would be...I've had them both ways...if the shim came off, then it went back on...you can also shim the starter above the bolts (Chevy does this on all their starters), there are special starter shims to do this and help get the gears to mesh properly...the flex plate can be put on backwards, but the odd hole arrangement in a flexplate will not allow it to be put on out of balance...just a thought...is your bell housing lined up correctly and tightened down the way it should be??? Don't know what else to look at...
Maybe the starter or flexplate is not your problem. I had a 351w that spun a rod bearing, When I pulled out the engine I went ahead and order a crank kit for it. I order the crank kit for a 75 351w, the crank and bearings where 020 on the mains and 010 on the rods. I put the crank in the engine an put it back in the truck. I never had starter problems before the engine laped a rod bearing, but after puting it back in the truck it grined and somtimes would not even hit the flexplate. I tried everything I could think of, and everthing ever one else could tell me to try, new staters even pulled the engine out and put a flexplate on it. I think it had somting to do with the crank kit. I ended up droping a 302 in the truck, I even used the same starter that came off the 351. I belive the crank was turned and the main journals got off a little putting the flexplate further away from the starter. You said your engine had been overhauled, maybe the crank has been turned. If you could find out if the starter problem started after the overhaul, I would like to know, maybe there is somthing to it.
I went through 5 starters before I got one that didn't grind on my flywheel. I changed the tranny case and the flywheel to ensure neither was warped. One one occasion I got a 351W starter in a 390 box. That made quite a racket.
sounds like you're really having fun.never saw a shimmed flexplate, but there should be a load spreading plate between the bolt heads and the flexplate.don't think a reground crank should cause a problem,unless the wrong bearings wre installed and you'd know that by now.how about the engine/trans locating dowels?previous owner says he's been in there more than a couple times.if a dowel is missing i would expect the trans pump to be wiped out in short order,so maybe thats not it either?your little jest of a hole sounds like a good idea.in the bottom of the bellhousing area where you can see what the is going on in there.leave enough metal around the hole so as not to weaken the edge,and make sure you're not too far back into the pump.find a push in plug at hardware/builders supply and size hole to fit.with the starter out(again)you can probably find a strategic location to blow through with a hole saw.many factory applications have plastic plugs in the bell(1"-2") for various reasons(timing marks,clutch lining thickness).unless you can lick it from the outside,it's an idea
You might check and make sure that the engine has the shim plate between the motor and trans, i'm sure that you already have. Make sure that nothing on the block or around the starter is shoving it to one side when you tighting up the bolts, I have had a few chevys that had starter problems and shiming one side fixed them where shimming the whole starter didn't help at all. Maybe the top bolt could be egg shaped to adjust the bintex into the flywheel, or away from it.
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