For easy of running the exhaust and the cleaning up it does underneath the truck (not to mention less tubing and bending, therefore cheaper) i'd go with the fenderwell.

 

It's an Edelbrock but I could not see any model numbers other than the Edelbrock 400 script on the top in two places.

 

Probably the old sp2 or whatever they called the preformer a number of years back, defenitatly better than stock but not the greast out there.

 

If it's an old SP2P, it is not very good at high RPM. After doing the headers look for an Edelbrock Performer or a Weiand #8010.

 

Hedman yeeeeeaaaaaaaaahhhhhhhh!

I have a Performer intake. Its definately a couple years old. I actually have a complete motor with a busted rod, maybe more. Ill se if it cleans up or not and we could talk $$ if you like. Or go new your call.

 

Unfortunately I'm running 35" tires with no lift. I don't think fender well exit's will clear. It also has a sway bar but I think it will drive just fine if I remove it. I just had new exhaust put on - a 2 into 1 system with 3" exit. If I have a new Y pipe made and run the headers into one 3" pipe, will that work as it should?

 

Ahhh, thanks!

 

In that case wick, i don't see any issue with that at all.

 

Yeah, tire width is the concern for rubbing on the headers, not tire height.

On a side note I've been contemplating fender exit headers. I seen a truck the other day that had dual ex tips out each side in front of the rear tires.....looked pretty cool.

 

That open air cleaner isn't doing anything to help your power during a climb either. Pulling in that hot underhood air is a losing proposition.

 

driving without a sway bar on the street is dangerous....

 

That is an Edelbrock Performer dual plane intake.

Try changing out the secondary spring for a stiffer one on that carb, that will help things out dramatically. The secondaries are probably opening too soon with that load and just flooding the motor out.

 

My truck didn't even come with sway bars from the factory, I drive 75% of the time on the street................pulling a camper in the summer. It hasn't felt dangerous yet.

There are alot of vehicles out there without sway bars, and they're perfectly safe.

 

Update:

I finally got my Autometer Ultra Lite tachometer installed, I've had it sitting in the box for a couple of years now. I left the old cheap tach installed so I could compare the two. The old tach was wildly inaccurate and not by the same amount all the time. I had suspected as much because my rpms were not matching what the charts said I should have with my tires and new gears. The new one reads 5 - 700 rpms lower in the 3000 rpm range, sometimes even more. This gives me a little more breathing room when trying to climb the big hill. I'll still be keeping it well under 4k. I got the new radiator in to hopefully solve some cooling issues. As for power I'm not satisfied yet but I think I will live with it for this season and look to maybe rebuilding one for next year. Every mod I can think to do needs more engine work to get the most out of it anyways. If I do headers it needs a new cam and head work, if I do the cam and head work it needs different pistons, if I'm going to do pistons the whole thing should be cleaned, machined and balanced and I would probably go with TMI's stroker kit. Only so much time left in this camping season, I need to keep tuning and doing the small stuff but keep the truck and myself up and running until after September.

 

Took the trailer out again last weekend with the new (used) radiator, 7 blade fan and clutch and new shroud. She cools better at idle but still overheats climbing the two or three big hills along the way. I purchased a new manufacture Cardone water pump and pulled the old one off yesterday. I was hoping to find a big mess in the pump for a definate answer to my problems. It however looked surprisingly good inside. No corrosion, the impeller looked new with the exeption maybe of the distance from the front facing part of the impeller blades to the machined surface of the pump housing. There is a larger gap there on the old one than the new pump. I'm hoping that is a critical dimension and will give me some more flow but I'm not sure it will solve my problems. With the pump off I flushed the block and radiator as best as I could with the garden hose. My last decision is whether to put the old 7 blade fan with clutch back on, the original to this motor 5 blade fixed fan or maybe buy a new clutch for the 7 blade fan? The clutch is grimy but everything on the engine it came from was. I was hoping the 7 blade would mount the same as the 5 blade and I would run it without the clutch but it is not the same.