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A/c problems

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Old Jun 26, 2007 | 08:36 PM
  #1  
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msb71
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From: Hampton,Va
A/c problems

Here's the problem , when sitting still at idle my A/C runs warm then kinda cold and back again. When I go down the road it runs cold. Cuts off when I hit the throttle , any ideas as to what is going on? Does Ford's recirculate the air like Chevy's?, I noticed they have a recirc button and My Ford doesn't.
Mike
 
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Old Jun 27, 2007 | 08:14 AM
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Norm AC is outside air and Max AC is the same as recirculate. It sounds like it might be low on refridgerant. If someone has added some, maybe it has too much.
 
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Old Jun 27, 2007 | 08:25 AM
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From: Mulege south Baja ca. Mx.
have some one with the proper tools check and top off the charge.

some other things to check that can callus that are.

1 check the fan belt for slippage.

2 check the fan clutch to see that it is engaging at the proper time.

3 if you have replaced your stock fan with a E FAN
 
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Old Jun 28, 2007 | 06:08 PM
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No belts slip or are loose , gonna go take it to the shop and have them figure it out , have to have A/C when it is 95 degrees out , thanks for all the help.
Mike
 
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Old Jun 28, 2007 | 07:04 PM
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Check to see if you are short cycling. Start the truck and turn the AC on. Watch the compressor. If it engages for a few seconds and then stops and repeats this over and over it is referred to as short cycling. This is usually an indication of being low on refrigerant. If it is low it has leaked out somewhere over time. Giving AC advice on this site is risky! I personally deal with my minor leak by adding one can each year. I use 134A It is inert and poses no threat I am aware of. It is the same stuff used as a propellant in spray cans. You are probably best off taking it to a reputable shop.
 
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Old Jun 29, 2007 | 07:35 AM
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Poor cooling at idle or low speeds is the classic symptom of a failed fan clutch.
Contrary to popular belief, there is no good way to check a fan clutch. It can be tested with strobe tachometer, but this has shown not to be extrenely accurate. The basic rule of thumb is, if the fan clutch is more than 5-8 years old and you have poor cooling at idle, replace it. The engine will tolerate a weak fan clutch and not overheat, AC systems don't.

Be very careful about adding refrigerant. If the clutch is weak, the ac head pressure will be extremely high. Adding refrigerant can grenade the compressor. You really need a manifold gauge set to accurately determine your problem.
 
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Old Jun 29, 2007 | 05:20 PM
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thanks for all the reply's , gonna check into the fan clutch , they shouldn't be that much .
Mike
 
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Old Jun 29, 2007 | 05:23 PM
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Originally Posted by 88 f150
Check to see if you are short cycling. Start the truck and turn the AC on. Watch the compressor. If it engages for a few seconds and then stops and repeats this over and over it is referred to as short cycling. This is usually an indication of being low on refrigerant. If it is low it has leaked out somewhere over time. Giving AC advice on this site is risky! I personally deal with my minor leak by adding one can each year. I use 134A It is inert and poses no threat I am aware of. It is the same stuff used as a propellant in spray cans. You are probably best off taking it to a reputable shop.
huh. sounds like what mine does. it makes a LOUD click when the clutch kicks in (can hear it from the cab). i THINK it's a relay. anyway, the AC blows cold (freezing, actually), but clicks on and off every minute or so when at idle (too loud to hear it going down the road).

Mike
 
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Old Jun 29, 2007 | 06:58 PM
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Originally Posted by whiteyfordzx5
huh. sounds like what mine does. it makes a LOUD click when the clutch kicks in (can hear it from the cab). i THINK it's a relay. anyway, the AC blows cold (freezing, actually), but clicks on and off every minute or so when at idle (too loud to hear it going down the road).

Mike
My truck does the exact same thing. Blows cold air for sure, but it clicks on and off at idle. I also notice a bit of moisture dripping underneath the compressor when I shut it off.

I've considered dumping those cans of r134a refrigerant boosters from NAPA ...but I've heard of them grenading your AC compressor...or exploding in your face.

hmmm....
 
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Old Jun 29, 2007 | 10:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Mr. M
My truck does the exact same thing. Blows cold air for sure, but it clicks on and off at idle. I also notice a bit of moisture dripping underneath the compressor when I shut it off.

I've considered dumping those cans of r134a refrigerant boosters from NAPA ...but I've heard of them grenading your AC compressor...or exploding in your face.

hmmm....
If it's blowing cold, why would you add anything? Those boosters are mostly snake oil designed to reduce the weight of your wallet.

Cycling at idle can be normal, depending on the ambient temp. If the temps are in the 80s or 90s, it usually shouldn't cycle. That is, unless the head pressure is kicking off the high pressure switch on an R134a system, Or the system pressure is low due to an undercharge.
Before making any calls about an AC system, or adding refrigerant, High and Low side pressures are a must for proper diagnosis. Shooting in the dark may make your system work, but it can also damage your system (or you).
 
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Old Jun 29, 2007 | 11:10 PM
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Originally Posted by lsrx101
If it's blowing cold, why would you add anything?
Hence why I have yet to attempt it.
 
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Old Jun 30, 2007 | 03:48 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by Mr. M
Hence why I have yet to attempt it.
there's my basic thought process on it. if it ain't broke......

Mike
 
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Old Jun 30, 2007 | 10:40 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by whiteyfordzx5
there's my basic thought process on it. if it ain't broke......

Mike
Two different theories. My stock 5.0 wasn't broke...but building another one from the ground up sure fixed it!
 
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