Hope someone got some ideas, I'm lost! I went and fueled up last Thursday as usual, got back in the truck and had a hell of a time getting it started, it did finally and I drove it home. I figured it was the fuel pump as this did the same thing about 7 years ago. Well I put the pump on, and changed out the thermostat and antifreeze as it was time, and also replaced all the battery cables. I found a wet area on the fuel line on the cross-member at the motor-tranny junction and found it rusted pretty good, so I replaced the fuel line from where I found solid tubing up to the fuel pump. I also had a fuel line made from the pump to the fuel filter header, because the Ford Dealership where I had the pump replaced 7 years ago tightend it so well that I couldn't get it off. Now that all said, it ran fine after the air was all purged out. THis work was all finished yesterday. I went out tody it started fine, fired right up. Drove about 10 miles, parked it for about twenty minutes to pick up some groceries, got back in and no start. Turns over fast, but acts like no fuel. Switched tanlks and still no go. Hope someone can give me an idea or two!! THANKS



1988 F-350 7.3 IDI stock no mods 260K 4X4

 

Sounds like another part of the fuel line went bad or your fix has a extremely small hole. As air will leak in with no fuel coming out of line. Also have you changed out the fuel return lines between injectors. If painted gray they should be changed also.

Or another thought. Did the glow plug controller sound normal when you tried to start it. Did it go click click??

 

All sounds and looks normal. No fuel weeping any where that I can see. All injector lines and fittings dry. Could a leak in a return line cause this? The only piece of line I can't see is over the tranny coming from the fuel rail which is encased in rubber tubing.

 

Did it finally start??? if so did it shake and spudder like it had air in the lines?? or did it run smooth?? a no start with a hot motor could be a sign of a failing IP,

 

Return lines could cause this, they leak air into the fuel lines which lets the fuel siphon back to the tank.


If it starts when cold and not when hot, that is a sign of a failing IP.

 

vtjvt: No, wouuldn't start. Am going to pull line off fuel rail and replace. Looks like it may have a film of fuel. Will see what happens. When it first happened and I got it restarted I ran it without shutting it off for 3 1/2 hrs before I got it home and it ran fine, it did sputter a bit when first started but then not much.

 

You need to replace the O rings under the return tees and the rubber line between the tees.

 

Thanks , will be able to work on it today.

 

If your replacing the return line(s) get the kit and do it all...... once you disturb the lines/caps the air leaks will keep coming. Replaceing just the orings will not always solve the problem as the old caps will/are distorted and oring still will not seal correctly.

Do a pressure and flow test of the fuel pump at the Schrader valve on the filter header (FSS- fuel shutoff solenoid disconnected on IP). Remove the tire valve core and hook a hose and pressure guage on it should see 4-6 psi when cranking. Then do a fuel quantity test same place, should see 1/3 pint in 10 seconds of engine cranking, route fuel to a suitable container with a hose.
If there is a problem with the lift pump and you are changing it, ensure the new pump comes with instructions as to correct installation procedure if it is the newer model pump with the almost straight arm.

 

Thanks for all the info!! Turned out it was th rubber line that goes over the tranny to the return fuel line from the IP. Was hard and cracked. All other lines are good, had replaced all the tubing on the top side. Thanks again for all your input!

 

I hope that fixes it. Just to throw this out. Last summer I spent two months chasing and "air leak" that turned out to be a starter going bad. It would start fine sometimes others it would take forever. I had the starter and batteries load tested and it turned over fine, "so I thought" until I put the new starter on. WOW the comparison between the old and new was like night and day.

I just throw this out there because I spent two months replacing o-rings return lines fuel filters, everything everybody here could think of. I even bought a new IP and full set of injectors (still haven't installed them). Finally one day the starter wouldn't even click. I thought hummmmm. so I called my buddy put a rope around my bumper and his BAM the thing started before I could get the clutch all the way out. The new starter spun the engine so fast I couldn't get off the key fast enough. Still does.

 

Well, I left that part out. The starter was also very weak, I ended up frying it. I did let it cool for 5 Mins. between attempts, but did it in. Cooked it well-done. No more leaks, $200. for a new Denso starter and I'm good. Cranks lioke hell now, and fires right up!! Thanks.

 

I just like to point out that at least in my case a weak starter gave the same symptoms as air in the fuel system. Of course in some cases it may the chicken and the egg deal. If ya know what I mean. LOL