No Start Issue
Thread Starter
|
Junior User
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 72
Likes: 0
From: KY
No Start Issue
Hope someone got some ideas, I'm lost! I went and fueled up last Thursday as usual, got back in the truck and had a hell of a time getting it started, it did finally and I drove it home. I figured it was the fuel pump as this did the same thing about 7 years ago. Well I put the pump on, and changed out the thermostat and antifreeze as it was time, and also replaced all the battery cables. I found a wet area on the fuel line on the cross-member at the motor-tranny junction and found it rusted pretty good, so I replaced the fuel line from where I found solid tubing up to the fuel pump. I also had a fuel line made from the pump to the fuel filter header, because the Ford Dealership where I had the pump replaced 7 years ago tightend it so well that I couldn't get it off. Now that all said, it ran fine after the air was all purged out. THis work was all finished yesterday. I went out tody it started fine, fired right up. Drove about 10 miles, parked it for about twenty minutes to pick up some groceries, got back in and no start. Turns over fast, but acts like no fuel. Switched tanlks and still no go. Hope someone can give me an idea or two!! THANKS
1988 F-350 7.3 IDI stock no mods 260K 4X4
1988 F-350 7.3 IDI stock no mods 260K 4X4
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 7,782
Likes: 221
From: Huntington Indiana
Sounds like another part of the fuel line went bad or your fix has a extremely small hole. As air will leak in with no fuel coming out of line. Also have you changed out the fuel return lines between injectors. If painted gray they should be changed also.
Or another thought. Did the glow plug controller sound normal when you tried to start it. Did it go click click??
Or another thought. Did the glow plug controller sound normal when you tried to start it. Did it go click click??
Thread Starter
|
Junior User
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 72
Likes: 0
From: KY
All sounds and looks normal. No fuel weeping any where that I can see. All injector lines and fittings dry. Could a leak in a return line cause this? The only piece of line I can't see is over the tranny coming from the fuel rail which is encased in rubber tubing.
Thread Starter
|
Junior User
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 72
Likes: 0
From: KY
vtjvt: No, wouuldn't start. Am going to pull line off fuel rail and replace. Looks like it may have a film of fuel. Will see what happens. When it first happened and I got it restarted I ran it without shutting it off for 3 1/2 hrs before I got it home and it ran fine, it did sputter a bit when first started but then not much.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 16
From: Nutter Fort, WV
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
|
Junior User
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 72
Likes: 0
From: KY
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Top 10 Fords at 2026 Carlisle Ford Nationals
Joe Kucinski
3 Best / 3 Worst Parts of Modern Ford Ownership
Brett Foote
10 Amazing Upgrades That Solve Common Ford Truck Owner Headaches
Pouria Savadkouei
Every 2026 Ford Engine Explained
Brett Foote
10 Ugly Ford Trucks That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 5,638
Likes: 1
From: Manitoba
If your replacing the return line(s) get the kit and do it all...... once you disturb the lines/caps the air leaks will keep coming. Replaceing just the orings will not always solve the problem as the old caps will/are distorted and oring still will not seal correctly.
Do a pressure and flow test of the fuel pump at the Schrader valve on the filter header (FSS- fuel shutoff solenoid disconnected on IP). Remove the tire valve core and hook a hose and pressure guage on it should see 4-6 psi when cranking. Then do a fuel quantity test same place, should see 1/3 pint in 10 seconds of engine cranking, route fuel to a suitable container with a hose.
If there is a problem with the lift pump and you are changing it, ensure the new pump comes with instructions as to correct installation procedure if it is the newer model pump with the almost straight arm.
Do a pressure and flow test of the fuel pump at the Schrader valve on the filter header (FSS- fuel shutoff solenoid disconnected on IP). Remove the tire valve core and hook a hose and pressure guage on it should see 4-6 psi when cranking. Then do a fuel quantity test same place, should see 1/3 pint in 10 seconds of engine cranking, route fuel to a suitable container with a hose.
If there is a problem with the lift pump and you are changing it, ensure the new pump comes with instructions as to correct installation procedure if it is the newer model pump with the almost straight arm.
Last edited by PLC7.3; Jun 28, 2007 at 08:17 AM.
Thread Starter
|
Junior User
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 72
Likes: 0
From: KY
Thanks for all the info!! Turned out it was th rubber line that goes over the tranny to the return fuel line from the IP. Was hard and cracked. All other lines are good, had replaced all the tubing on the top side. Thanks again for all your input!
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 280
Likes: 0
From: Everywhere, USA
I hope that fixes it. Just to throw this out. Last summer I spent two months chasing and "air leak" that turned out to be a starter going bad. It would start fine sometimes others it would take forever. I had the starter and batteries load tested and it turned over fine, "so I thought" until I put the new starter on. WOW the comparison between the old and new was like night and day.
I just throw this out there because I spent two months replacing o-rings return lines fuel filters, everything everybody here could think of. I even bought a new IP and full set of injectors (still haven't installed them). Finally one day the starter wouldn't even click. I thought hummmmm. so I called my buddy put a rope around my bumper and his BAM the thing started before I could get the clutch all the way out. The new starter spun the engine so fast I couldn't get off the key fast enough. Still does.
I just throw this out there because I spent two months replacing o-rings return lines fuel filters, everything everybody here could think of. I even bought a new IP and full set of injectors (still haven't installed them). Finally one day the starter wouldn't even click. I thought hummmmm. so I called my buddy put a rope around my bumper and his BAM the thing started before I could get the clutch all the way out. The new starter spun the engine so fast I couldn't get off the key fast enough. Still does.
Thread Starter
|
Junior User
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 72
Likes: 0
From: KY
Well, I left that part out. The starter was also very weak, I ended up frying it. I did let it cool for 5 Mins. between attempts, but did it in. Cooked it well-done. No more leaks, $200. for a new Denso starter and I'm good. Cranks lioke hell now, and fires right up!! Thanks.
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 280
Likes: 0
From: Everywhere, USA
I just like to point out that at least in my case a weak starter gave the same symptoms as air in the fuel system. Of course in some cases it may the chicken and the egg deal. If ya know what I mean. LOL
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Jymmm
1997 - 2006 Expedition & Navigator
21
Apr 3, 2019 12:52 AM
deputydog03
1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
53
Nov 5, 2013 03:41 PM