Leaking injectors
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Elder User
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 561
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From: Edmonton, Alberta Canada
Leaking injectors
Hey guys, its been a while.
Anyways, so for a couple of weeks now, I've been noticing that I could smell diesel when I'd shut off the truck and get outside. I let my batteries go dead the other day, and I was charging them up yesterday afternoon and noticed diesel coming out of all 4 injectors on the driver side of the block. There wasn't any leaks on the passenger side of the block...and this seems kinda weird. It looks to me like its a slow leak, but its noticeable. Any ideas on how to cure this problem?
Thanks guys.
Anyways, so for a couple of weeks now, I've been noticing that I could smell diesel when I'd shut off the truck and get outside. I let my batteries go dead the other day, and I was charging them up yesterday afternoon and noticed diesel coming out of all 4 injectors on the driver side of the block. There wasn't any leaks on the passenger side of the block...and this seems kinda weird. It looks to me like its a slow leak, but its noticeable. Any ideas on how to cure this problem?
Thanks guys.
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 1,897
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From: Northeastern Pa - USA
if you are noticing a leak at the tops of the injectors ... it is probably the return lines or the o rings beneath the plastic caps on top of the injectors. There are repair kits available and if you do one side, do the other too.
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Elder User
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 561
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From: Edmonton, Alberta Canada
Ok, so where could I get one of these repair kits? Does Napa carry these? And does this require alot of brains to do? I've never done this before, so if you could provide a step by step method of doing this, that would be great.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 16
From: Nutter Fort, WV
I always get mine at Ford.
If you have a diesel injection service close to you, they should have what you need.
www.mwfi.com is an online source
If you have a diesel injection service close to you, they should have what you need.
www.mwfi.com is an online source
Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Sep 2006
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From: Edmonton, Alberta Canada
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Elder User
Joined: Oct 2006
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I bought a "return line kit" at Autozone about two years ago for around $35.
Installation was straightforward. I tried to search for one of the earlier posts on this subject, but the search and I aren't getting along today
Just a few tips from a year or so of reading here:
Use the kit. Just replacing the o-rings may work, but only if the caps are perfect (they're only plastic).
If you are planning on changing any glow plugs, it would be better to do that first, as it is easy to disturb the return lines.
Be very careful not to kink the steel injector lines!
Be very careful not to cross thread the injector lines when re-installing.
Don't over-torque the injecor line fittings (sorry I don't know the torque number).
Do one entire side at a time, make up the assemblies on the bench by matching up with the old ones.
Be careful not to nick or scratch the injectors.
Use lubrication when installing the new o-rings.
Be careful not to cut the new o-rings.
One more thing...when you're done, it may take a few tries to get it started. Only crank the starter for a maximum of 20 seconds and then wait at least two minutes before trying again, or you'll risk overheating and ruining the starter.
Installation was straightforward. I tried to search for one of the earlier posts on this subject, but the search and I aren't getting along today
Just a few tips from a year or so of reading here:
Use the kit. Just replacing the o-rings may work, but only if the caps are perfect (they're only plastic).
If you are planning on changing any glow plugs, it would be better to do that first, as it is easy to disturb the return lines.
Be very careful not to kink the steel injector lines!
Be very careful not to cross thread the injector lines when re-installing.
Don't over-torque the injecor line fittings (sorry I don't know the torque number).
Do one entire side at a time, make up the assemblies on the bench by matching up with the old ones.
Be careful not to nick or scratch the injectors.
Use lubrication when installing the new o-rings.
Be careful not to cut the new o-rings.
One more thing...when you're done, it may take a few tries to get it started. Only crank the starter for a maximum of 20 seconds and then wait at least two minutes before trying again, or you'll risk overheating and ruining the starter.
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Elder User
Joined: Oct 2006
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I'm surprised no one else is helping out here. I've changed return lines once, and didn't know what I was doing at the time. Now I'm just trying to remember what I've read here.
Loosen the steel return lines away from the injectors, and then twist and pull the plastic "caps" which surround each injector. They should slide right off. Then use a dental pick or knife or whatever to remove the two o-rings around each injector, being careful not to nick the injectors.
When I did mine, I didn't remove the steel lines completely, or even loosen the IP ends. I'm not sure if that's such a good idea, because if you kink one of the lines, it will need to be replaced. If you have the tools, I would recommend loosening both ends of the steel lines to reduce the risk of damage.
Anybone else here have anything to say??? Dave?
Loosen the steel return lines away from the injectors, and then twist and pull the plastic "caps" which surround each injector. They should slide right off. Then use a dental pick or knife or whatever to remove the two o-rings around each injector, being careful not to nick the injectors.
When I did mine, I didn't remove the steel lines completely, or even loosen the IP ends. I'm not sure if that's such a good idea, because if you kink one of the lines, it will need to be replaced. If you have the tools, I would recommend loosening both ends of the steel lines to reduce the risk of damage.
Anybone else here have anything to say??? Dave?
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2007
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sounds about right. Did my return kit for first time whlie waiting for the bossman to get to work(used tail gate for bench). loosen the injector lines from the injectors, and if you can reach them, also loosen the lines on the injector pump just enough to let it move around a little. take one side of the return caps off keeping them together put on bench. Remove o-rings from injector tips, put new o-ring on, lubricate with vaseline. Go back to bench and duplicate assembly with new parts. put new assembly on, and repeat on other side. Retighten injector lines to injectors making sure not to cross thread and then tighten injector pump side. now crank motor over while cracking each injector line loose from injector until fuel squirts out. dont crank for more than 20 seconds and let starter cool down befors doing again.
I actually only did one side on my truck. I was very easy and i guess it may have been easier to start up because i only had to bleed 4 injectors and not eight. well thats my method.
I actually only did one side on my truck. I was very easy and i guess it may have been easier to start up because i only had to bleed 4 injectors and not eight. well thats my method.
