Note: On Aerostar vans, with factory installed dual evaporator a/c systems, the rear A/C switch needs to be cleaned, and the rear in-line filter needs to be changed.

http://www.4s.com/fourseasons/tech_t...ish/ab302.html

Compressor Sludge (GOO) / "Ford's Black Death" - March 20, 1999 An FX-15, or any compressor can fail for several reasons, including excessive high pressure, loose or damaged mountings that allow the compressor to shake, lack of lubricant, and/or contamination which can be caused by not changing the filter dryer or accumulator. In all cases flushing is extremely important.
When a compressor fails, the system may be subject to heavy contamination, resulting in rapid, multiple failures. Normal wear on a compressor like the FX-15 causes a deterioration of the swash plate and related compressor components. When these fine particles mix with refrigerant and oil they create sludge like material. The chances of repeated failures are great if the system is not properly diagnosed and repaired. The way to identify this problem is to inspect the orifice tube. There will be a noticeable deposit of dark residue on the orifice that may be sticky to the touch. This is sometimes known in the aftermarket as "Ford's Black Death".
The repair of a system, which has this problem, is very expensive and sometimes very hard to repair properly. In training with Ford aftermarket sales personnel, they suggested several steps to repair the system properly.

<table border="0" cellpadding="1" cellspacing="1" width="514"><tbody><tr> <td width="5%"> 1)


</td> <td width="95%"> Flush the condenser and the evaporator using a proper flushing
procedure, using an approved solvent.

</td> </tr> <tr> <td width="5%"> 2)

</td> <td width="95%"> Replace any a/c hose, which has a muffler.

</td> </tr> <tr> <td width="5%"> 3)

</td> <td width="95%"> Replace the accumulator and all orifice tubes.

</td> </tr> <tr> <td width="5%"> 4)</td> <td width="95%"> Install an inline filter between the condenser outlet and the orifice tube.

</td> </tr> <tr> <td width="5%"> 5)

</td> <td width="95%"> Replace the compressor.

</td> </tr> <tr> <td width="5%"> 6)


</td> <td width="95%"> Run a performance test. In some cases performance will not be affected for several days. If the performance problems re-occur, or the compressor fails again, re-inspect the orifice tube. If "Black Death" has returned, re-do the clean-up procedure, and change the condenser. </td></tr></tbody></table>

 

Very appropriate timing for this, as I am in the near future going to be replacing a compressor that has failed on an Aerostar. This inline filter intrigues me, where can I get one?

 

http://www.keep-it-kool.com/inlinefi...lter_main.html
Four Seasons and other a/c manuf. sell one time use inline filters

http://www.4s.com/fourseasons/tech_t...ish/ab328.html
• A problem can arise when the condenser has been impacted with a heavy load of contaminates. The installer flushes the condenser and assumes that since the flush came out clean the condenser was clean. Most modern condensers are "dual pass". This means that the high-pressure line from the compressor comes into the condenser at the top and splits into at least two parallel passages. If one of these passages happens to be clean, and the other is totally clogged, the flush will follow the path of least resistance and flow through the open side. This leaves a tremendous amount of contaminates in the system unnoticed by the installer. If a significant amount of these contaminates leaves the condenser, it will flow to other components and will cause the slowing or stoppage of the lubricant flow. The proper installation of an inline filter can help to avoid this problem.

Note:
On Ford products with an FS10 or an FX15 compressor that has had a major failure, or GM products with a DA6 compressor with broken Teflon rings and a dual path condenser, you must to replace the condenser.

 

http://www.4s.com/fourseasons/tech_t...ish/ab326.html
Charging with Cans, Guess Again?

 

Never try to flush a Ford condenser the passages are just too small to flush properly if you have the black death just replace it.

The Aerostar has mufflers on its A/C hoses the one for the front A/C is a 2" round drum connected inline with the hose I only have one on my non Rear A/C Aero. It is on the high pressure gas hose from the compressor outlet to the condenser.

I believe on pictures I've seen for Rear A/C hoses one of them have a muffler as well.

These mufflers can and will trap the black death's goop inside their drumlike bodies and not release it even with a flush. This goop can then later escape and leech into the system and continue to wreck your new components.

Any hoses that don't have a muffler can be flushed safely with the proper flushing solvent.

 

The rear unit high pressure hose has a filter on it. The hose attaches to the inlet tube which comes up through the floorboard, runs up for about 6 inches, and then makes three 90 deg turns to almost form a square. On the top leg of the square is the filter. The hose assembly for the rear unit is quite expensive...if you can find it. An alternate solution is to just purchase the filter and braze it into the line.

......and remember, the front and rear orifice tubes are different. The orifice tube is located at the point where the high pressure hose attaches to the evaporator core. This can be a real bear to get out sometimes, especially if the tab comes off when trying to pull it out. I had it happen, but luckily a mechanic friend of mine had a special tool to get it out. (A corkscrew welded to a metal rod)

 

I see that is an old article. Filters and flushing used to be recommended, but now a "firewall foreward" replacement is considered the safest thing to do when you have Black Death. This means everything except the evaporator(s). Yep, it can get pricy, especialy on a dual system.
If there's a lot of gunk in the condenser or lines, it can plug the filter causing yet another compressor failure.