My woes... valve?
I replaced the timing set today.
Before she died, I had tested 3 cylindars for compression (I was lazy)
5-6-7
90-90-120
I know I need rings, thats in the future.
Today, I tested 5-6-7-8 I will do 1-2-3-4 after I eat/shower.
Got 90-90-120-0
When I turned the crank by hand, with the chain off to align them, did I bend my valves? Is there anyway I can find out if I have a bad valve without tearing a head of?
I need the truck to move under it's own power for a cheap as possible. It won't be driven, but it must move around the driveway. Once I can do that, I can beg funding for a rebuild from my girlfriend I hope. But first I'll have to demonstrate hope...
As a an emergency bandaid, you could remove the push rods to the dead cylinder. Do this only if the valves are seated and have their springs etc. You don't want a valve hanging down in the cylinder.
While you are at it take a look at the valve guides to see if you cracked any.
If it isn't a dead vavle then you probably have a hole in the piston.
Good Luck,
Jim Henderson
I remember way back the lifters on one of my engines was hard to remove seems like a slight ridge at the bottom of the lfters made it hard to remove a few, engine had normal wear and I was just modding it. Can't count on this tho.
Still a risky thing.
Without removing the rods, I don't think you can prevent the valves from moving unless they are already bent.
Bandaids are always a problem,
Jim Henderson
Left bank, 90-90-120-0
right bank, 90-90-90-90
I removed the rocker arms from #8, so in theory both valves should be closed. I then pumped air into the cylinder, and it flowed freely out the carb. So, #8 intake valve is out of comision.
When my timming gear skipped, the truck was running, but shaking pretty bad. The stud that held the aircleaner down broke, and we assumed it it fell out of the engine bay en-route home. (I wasn't there)
I'm assuming that the stud made it's way into #8, and is holding the intake valve open. When I pull my intake tomorow, I'll find out...



