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Just received my Carter electric fuel pump to install with my in-tank mod this weekend. The instructions talk about two items that I've never seen mentioned in FTE whenever these pumps are talked about for this application.
1. "Quiet Pack" noise isolation mounting kit to minimize the noise frmo the pump. I have no questions about this item, because I'm going to get it regardless.
HERE's the question...
2. A Carter Pressure Safety Switch -recommended to be installed to prevent damage resulting from potentially stalled engine with the ignition switch "ON". Do I really need this, or can I just splice into the power supply wire feeding the existing stock pump?
Thanks, Dave, for such a quick reply. I'm trying to finish up any last minute ordering issues tonight so any remaining items can ship tomorrow and be still here by Saturday.
Let me make sure I understand correctly. So there is no need for a completely new wire run? And I assume that the stock pump is already set up to shut down under the previously described conditions??
Yes just run your wires up to the main pump and hook up the main pump is controled by the computer if the truck isn't running it will only run (with the key on ) the pump about 20 or 30 sec's. Thats the way I have mine wired and Scott (cookie88) has his the same way no problems on either one Scott's has been done for a few years.
Great confirmation. Exactly what I needed, Dave. Thanks. I'm going to go ahead and pull the trigger on the "quiet pack" isolation mounts, and if they don't manage to get here in time for Saturday's install, I'll swap out the original bolts when it gets here.
Now I'm thinking, and beginning to second guess myself some more.
On the new Baldwin filter, I'm supposed to put it between teh tank and the Carter pump, and then run the Carter's discharge straight into the OEM pump's intake, right?
Youre correct. I have my Carter pump pulling fuel through a Dahl 150, and into the stock pump inlet. You'll want the most soundproofing you can get, that little sucker is loud.
So there is no need for a completely new wire run?
I originally wired my carter pre-pump off from the stock pump wiring, but just to make myself feel better I eventually put it on it's own power supply and just used the stock pump power as switching power for it's relay.
I have no idea if you will ever blow fuses with both pumps on the same supply, but I can tell you that my carter pump sounds different since I got it on it's own circuit.
Clux, that is similar to what the Carter instructions recommend, too. They have their diagram showing the use of a 15 psi low pressure switch that is teed off the engine's oil presure tap as the "cutoff" mechanism, and I believe, though, they showed a 15 amp inline fuse link on the downstream side of the pressure switch.
Where did you tap into your system for your power supply, Clux? 14 gauge wire?
Thanks, Clux... I'm going to go ahead and start out the way you ended up... with the separate power supply, relay, and inline fuse.
I found out, too, when I went toorder my "quiet pack" to get the rubber isolators to make the pump quieter, I can't get one delivered until late next week because folks either no longer have access to the Carter line or don't carry that item in stock any more. The kit was going to be around $23 delivered, but I went to Home Depot last night and got the materials to make my own kit for $11. What I'm ending up with, though, is not three circular rubber isolator grommets, but an entire full surface bed of rubber that will be 1/2 inch thick, complete with PVC sleeves for the bolts that go through the frame. I'll take pics when I get it done - making the bracket mounts today, doing in-tanks and pump install tomorrow.
FWIW, the OEM pump draws a nominal 4-5 amps of current under normal operation. However, the pump circuit has 14ga wire running to the pump, a 30 amp relay, and a 20 amp fuse.
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