bearing install tool
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Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 3,476
Likes: 224
From: Frequently frozen MN
bearing install tool
I'm trying to rebuild a 16hp Kohler. The shop took the crank out to grind it, and now I have to reinstall the bearing in the case. The manual shows a 'special tool' -- some kind of a driver and a handle. Don't have one, can't find one -- or even a good description.
Tried a putting the bearing in a freezer for a day, oililng it, and using a 2x4 -- no good.
2x4 was a little large, but I couldn't even pound it down to where the bearing was flush. ( it seemed straight)
Now I'm thinking of making a driver from a round pipe flange and some pipe. I also plan to heat the case on a hotplate until the mounting area is around 200F or a little more.
Any thoughts -- the flange was the only thing that I could think of.
Thanks,
ford2go
ford2go
Tried a putting the bearing in a freezer for a day, oililng it, and using a 2x4 -- no good.
2x4 was a little large, but I couldn't even pound it down to where the bearing was flush. ( it seemed straight)
Now I'm thinking of making a driver from a round pipe flange and some pipe. I also plan to heat the case on a hotplate until the mounting area is around 200F or a little more.
Any thoughts -- the flange was the only thing that I could think of.
Thanks,
ford2go
ford2go
Logistics Pro
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 4,447
Likes: 0
From: Georgia
You could have it pressed at a machine shop. Worth the cost if you don't have a press in my opinion. The last bearing I had pressed on cost about 14 bucks for labor.
Last edited by 70blue; Jun 21, 2007 at 06:26 AM.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 13,873
Likes: 3
From: Atlanta GA
You can easily do it if you have a tube bender. Remove the hydraulic piston and use a floor jack. Heat the case and freeze the bearing and use a bearing driver. I use lube too.
Or you could take it to a machine shop and have them do it, especially if the case is aluminum because they crack easy and it is not recommended you heat an aluminum case.
Would stink to hear that pop, think it was okay, then discover you cracked the case because things were misaligned. I hate when that happens.
BTW: I would mic it too before hand.
Or you could take it to a machine shop and have them do it, especially if the case is aluminum because they crack easy and it is not recommended you heat an aluminum case.
Would stink to hear that pop, think it was okay, then discover you cracked the case because things were misaligned. I hate when that happens.
BTW: I would mic it too before hand.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 3,476
Likes: 224
From: Frequently frozen MN
Sounds like I'll take it to a shop. The shop manual -- published by Kohler-- says to take their driver and beat it in. But, it sounds like the standard practice is to press it in. Makes sense to me.
Thanks,
ford2go
Thanks,
ford2go
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,413
Likes: 14
From: cape may county NJ
[QUOTE=ford2go]Sounds like I'll take it to a shop. The shop manual -- published by Kohler-- says to take their driver and beat it in. But, it sounds like the standard practice is to press it in. Makes sense to me.
Thats because there not that tight of a fit if lined up right a bearing driver will work been doing it that way for 25yrs.This is a small engine there is more of a chance breaking the block or sump cover with the force of a press,I have seen it first hand.
Thats because there not that tight of a fit if lined up right a bearing driver will work been doing it that way for 25yrs.This is a small engine there is more of a chance breaking the block or sump cover with the force of a press,I have seen it first hand.
Last edited by GlennFordx4; Jun 23, 2007 at 07:19 AM. Reason: added info
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 788
Likes: 1
From: Hendersonville, TN
The mistake that a lot of people make when driving a bearing in or on is hitting the wrong race, which distorts it or ruins the ***** inside. A driving tool should only strike the race being driven, examples: when driving onto a shaft, only strike the inner race, or when driving into a case, only strike the outer race. If it's aligned right, and properly sized, then a homemade fixture can be made with a couple of pieces of steel or large washers and allthread. However, by the time you go purchase a stack of washers, nuts, allthread, etc. you may spend as much as the labor to have someone press it in for you. Also the heating /cooling method has always worked well for me. (heat the block and cool the bearing, lube bearing and drop into place. While you should be careful heating that block, (aluminum expands more than steel when heated), you have to ask yourself "this block gets pretty hot while the engine is running doesn't it?" I wouldn't be too paranoid about damaging it. Just don't go nuts with a torch or something.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 3,476
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From: Frequently frozen MN
Well, maybe I will try it. It's mostly for the experience, although I'd kind of hate to wreck the engine.
It's cast iron ( Kohler, the cast iron brand) , so, maybe it's a bit more forgiving.
I appreciate all of the input.
ford2go
It's cast iron ( Kohler, the cast iron brand) , so, maybe it's a bit more forgiving.
I appreciate all of the input.
ford2go
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Posting Legend
Joined: Sep 2001
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Just like 200000 said, I have seen a ton of bearings ruined by people beating them in and accidentally hitting the wrong race... 
What is worse is that some people would beat or even press them in on the wrong race on purpose then blamed the bearings when they got the units back under warranty with rusty powder where the ***** or rollers were...
What is worse is that some people would beat or even press them in on the wrong race on purpose then blamed the bearings when they got the units back under warranty with rusty powder where the ***** or rollers were...
