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My manifolds have gone to the dogs and so bought a set of headers from Summit racing. They are the Summit racing brand that cost about 100 bucks. After much cusing, spitting, (first time header installation), I was able to get them on. But now, I see that the transmission shifter linkage may hit the pipe once it is bolted on to the header. Did anyone face this problem? Any suggestion on how to fix this? I am thinking of getting a piece of flat rod, cutting to length and dril holes on each end to remedy.
Take it from me...that will not work if you want to continue to use the 1st and 2nd gear selections. I had my headers installed with my dual exhaust at the same exhaust shop I have been using for ten years or so. When I asked about this problem to the owner, he solved it fairly easily. He got the truck up o operating temperature and then drove it about ten miles more. Then he pulled it into his bay and with it up on the lift, he put a long pry bar between the header (just in front of the collector) and moved the bottom part of the header away from the engine about a quarter inch. Thats all it needed. He guarantees his work for life, so I'm good to go.
BTW... Mine is a '74 F-100, 302 and an FMX Automatic.
Thats what I did too... you could also put up the pipes and weld them all up and then take them down and take a hammer to the pipe and it will move just enough to allow the linkage to move. Don't try cutting the overhang on the linkage, thats what I did first and now I have no adjustment if I ever have to change out transmissions.
Just curious why the first gear and second gear selection wont work. It seems that the only issue is the overhang (for adjustments). I don't want to ruin the linkage just in case shortening the linkage don't work and so wanted to work with a spare.
Has anyone tried long tube headers on a 351W? I have shorties on my 1974 f100, but they are restrictive. 302 headers will bolt up but I am not sure of the clearance.
Mine are sitting on crossmember. But I haven't drawn the header bolts tight yet - maybe that will lift them up some. Regarless, they don't seem to be causing any grief.
I have a similar truck, but with a 400 motor, and I used the Hooker competition headers, and mine rest about a 1/4" away from the crossmember on the driver's side, the passenger side cleared fine, but took some creative tube bending to clear the crossmember. It would have been easier to go below the X member, but I like to keep things clean. I used 14 ga 2.5" aluminized tubing.
If you have ever delt with the headers banging on the tranny crossmember here is what I did to fix that issue! Whether you run your pipes above or below the tranny crossmember they rattle on this crossmember.
I know that you are talking about the radius arm crossmember, But the tranny crossmember is an issue too.
Thats pretty sweet... A little easier trick might be to take the crossmember and put it in a vise and heat the angle a little and bend it the other way and just flip the crossmember over. I thought about this, but I have a pretty neat hydraulic tubing bender that worked very well for putting the bends in the tubing. This way you are leaving the crossmember hanging down a bit, but its still not as low as the front I-Beams, so you still have plenty of clearance.
Is it an issue for the header to be touching the cross member? I don't think the crossmember is on the way, but the header is just touching it.
Although, I have another issue - the header flange to tighten down the reducer is touching the tranny pan. this may prevent the flange to be tighten down. the header also seem to be touching the bell housing on the passenger side. Anyone face this issue? Thinking of sanding down the flange a little to clear the pan.
Another issue - there is one header mount bolt (the ones that bolts the headers to the heads) right in the middle on both side that does not seem to want to go in at all !
Welcome to life with headers... they never fit like they should...
There aren't any issues with the headers touching anything (unless it melts) except that it will rattle, not a little rattle either, like a megaphone for all the little engine noises.
I ended up calling summit racing. They said that the headers should not touch the crossmember. They think that my motor mount are not good. So, I bought a couple from the local parts store and try them on. They said to shim it a bit if it still touches the crossmember. So, trying that on today.
As far as the hole that does not line up to the heads, I think I will have to drill it out a bit.
New update: Got a new pair of motor mount and a new tranny mount. Motor mount did not help at all. Tranny mount helped very little. Ended up shimming the tranny mount by almost an inch. It gave me good clearance on the driver's side. Ironically, my engine is more leveled now then it ever did !
The passenger side still have issues - the flange is still hitting the pan and the side of the header where the reducer goes in is still touching the crossmember. Driving me nuts right now !
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