Broken Ignition, push button start???
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Broken Ignition, push button start???
k well long story short my ignition is broken on my truck, i put the key in and the thing just spinns all the way around, you can take it out and put it back in no problem with your hands so what i was wondering is if there is a possible way to just have a push button start on my truck
i got some switchs laying around so i'd like one switch to be for the power (so i can turn the cd player with the truck not running) and a button to turn the truck over to start it
yeah i know this is not the right way but i dont feel like goign to the dealership and gettign all that stuff redone and i kinda dont got the cash for it either haha
so yeah a wireing diagram that has anything to do with that would help alot or just any info on how to wire it would be really awesome
so yeah any interest in helping and what not is much apreciated and i'll be talk to you guys sometime
Tom
i got some switchs laying around so i'd like one switch to be for the power (so i can turn the cd player with the truck not running) and a button to turn the truck over to start it
yeah i know this is not the right way but i dont feel like goign to the dealership and gettign all that stuff redone and i kinda dont got the cash for it either haha
so yeah a wireing diagram that has anything to do with that would help alot or just any info on how to wire it would be really awesome
so yeah any interest in helping and what not is much apreciated and i'll be talk to you guys sometime
Tom
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2005
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From: South East Florida
it would be less work to just replace the ignition lock cylinder.
go to your auto parts place and ask for the lock cylinder. then remove the steering column plastic and look for a hole underneath where the cylinder is. push it with something and remove the cylinder. replace wih new. put everything back and be on your way
i still think the push button start thing would be cool as crap. no one on here that i know of has been creative or original enough to complete this. everyone on here always scares people out of it for some strange reason.
i have no interest in doing the work right now or else i would. maybe thats why no one wants to either.
anyway, good luck
go to your auto parts place and ask for the lock cylinder. then remove the steering column plastic and look for a hole underneath where the cylinder is. push it with something and remove the cylinder. replace wih new. put everything back and be on your way
i still think the push button start thing would be cool as crap. no one on here that i know of has been creative or original enough to complete this. everyone on here always scares people out of it for some strange reason.
i have no interest in doing the work right now or else i would. maybe thats why no one wants to either.
anyway, good luck
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yeah i think i'm still going to go for the push button start, i always thought it looked cool in the movies and stuff like that.
so the key unlocks the steering and my steering is already unlocked right now so thats one problem taken care of
alot of people have done them for honda s2000's becuase they have some kinda aftermarket parts for that but they sell start buttons for them, they have a wire to the relay and one to the power up
sooo what i was thinking is having one switch to go to the power up and a button for the relay to turn the truck over
if there is a little more to this or if i made a misstake any help would be great and tips would be awesome
so the key unlocks the steering and my steering is already unlocked right now so thats one problem taken care of
alot of people have done them for honda s2000's becuase they have some kinda aftermarket parts for that but they sell start buttons for them, they have a wire to the relay and one to the power up
sooo what i was thinking is having one switch to go to the power up and a button for the relay to turn the truck over
if there is a little more to this or if i made a misstake any help would be great and tips would be awesome
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well i've been looking around and i can't seem to get a wireing diagram, i looked in the Hayes manual for the ignition wireing diagram and i can only find one for a deisiel truck and the 4.9L, i have a 302 in my truck so i need to find out this out sometime tonight so i can go buy some parts tomorrow
all the websites i go to want like anywhere from 20 bucks to 65 bucks!!! so i would like to go without paying all that for a stupid little picture with some wires in it
all the websites i go to want like anywhere from 20 bucks to 65 bucks!!! so i would like to go without paying all that for a stupid little picture with some wires in it
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Joined: May 2007
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Here ya go. CLICK HERE (PDF FILE) This is for a '95 but should work for other years. Engine/tranny don't matter, they're all wired the same in the column. You'll want to tap the red wire with light blue stripe for the starter. To make the truck run you'll still either need to turn the key to run or use several relays (two for the items that work with the key in "RUN", one for the items that work with the key in "ACC"). And they'll have to be big relays - the blower motor and several other big current circuits all feed directly off the ignition switch.
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alright thanks alot Asterixx i'll be taking apart and looking at my steering column and give that all a little test then i'll come back and tell you all how it goes
hope it all goes good (knock on wood)
hope it all goes good (knock on wood)
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I have a cousin who went to pushbutton start in his F250 when his ignition screwed up. It works well.
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well thats good to here, but how did he get it to work, i'm still having troubles figureing the whole thing out, like getting it to turn over is easy but i dont know how to hook up all the relays and stuff like that so that i can have a kill switch and stuff like that
in the Hayes manual it says when you turn the key for the power to go on it puts out about 5 ohms and when you put it to run it puts out over 10,000 ohms so the big question rite now well what i am wanting to do is i guess splice a switch into there to put out the 5 ohms then a button that gives it the 10,000 ohms to turn the motor over to start and then use the switch to kill it when i wanna shut it off
it would be great if you could tell me how he got his to work but i guess i dont really need a kill switch cuz i guess i could just stall it haha but i might as well get it so it works good!
in the Hayes manual it says when you turn the key for the power to go on it puts out about 5 ohms and when you put it to run it puts out over 10,000 ohms so the big question rite now well what i am wanting to do is i guess splice a switch into there to put out the 5 ohms then a button that gives it the 10,000 ohms to turn the motor over to start and then use the switch to kill it when i wanna shut it off
it would be great if you could tell me how he got his to work but i guess i dont really need a kill switch cuz i guess i could just stall it haha but i might as well get it so it works good!
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 2,760
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From: Gadsden Purchase
You've got to get your hands on some real wiring diagrams for the year of your pickup then check and be sure of any un documented changes in the effected circuits. Haynes' wiring diagrams suck.
BTDT for the same exact purpose you are asking about tho. :)
...but it was for my much simpler '75.
I never went through with the idea, just kept my notes is all. :)
Have-made the conversion in my '67 bug and various dune buggies tho.
But that's all simpler stuff to work with!
You have a real project on your hands. :)
Alvin retired RR signalman in AZ
BTDT for the same exact purpose you are asking about tho. :)
...but it was for my much simpler '75.
I never went through with the idea, just kept my notes is all. :)
Have-made the conversion in my '67 bug and various dune buggies tho.
But that's all simpler stuff to work with!
You have a real project on your hands. :)
Alvin retired RR signalman in AZ
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haha yeah we done the same thing to a Bug we got at school in the shop but yeah there is pretty much nothing to it, takes like 'bout 4 wires to get the whole thing to work haha and yeah i agree the Hayes manual diagrams arn't really the best, there kinda hard to understand sometimes but oh well!
yeah i'm still doing some research on this and all the stores are closed so yeah i'm gunna have to wait a few days till i can take a good look and find out what i need to get
yeah i'm still doing some research on this and all the stores are closed so yeah i'm gunna have to wait a few days till i can take a good look and find out what i need to get
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Gadsden Purchase
Originally Posted by f250 beast
yeah i'm still doing some research on this and all the stores are closed so yeah i'm gunna have to wait a few days till i can take a good look and find out what i need to get
Something I just got done doing -again- is taking my ignition switch apart and cleaning the contacts. I made an "improvement;)" in it by filing away some zinc so that the switch will turn farther, so the starter contacts climb on top of each other "farther" than stock. Works great. :) Last time it worked ~15 years so with the new silly-cone grease and improvements it should last even longer this time?
Drilled and taped it for 1-72 screws instead of squeezing the zinc tabs down again.
Also figured out with my simplified '75 (special ordered it in late Nov '74 so doesn't have a radio, cigar lighter and other crap like that all over it:) ...there was an extra set of contacts inside the switch that i left out this time. :) Part of that contact was for some sort of brake setup, where the circuit needed to be shunted to ground at one point. Don't need it... out it came. :)
It's my old Ford pickup... it might have acted it up but it never friggin quit! :)
It's never broke down and left me stranded any-where, ever. :)
Alvin in AZ
