Ok where do I start? I have an 04 Ford Ex. PSD. It's a limited and only has 45k on the clock. I recently purchased an 08, 28 foot toy hauler. As you know these things are heavy. Coming in at 8620 dry. I bought the Ex so I could buy a toyhauler. You get the picture.

The truck, has a 4 inch lift, Fox shocks and rides very nice. Mods come in with Banks 4inch exhaust and AFE stage 2 intake.The trailer was running around 10k for this trip.

So I'm loaded up and excited. I start down the road and the thing is all over the place. I remember reading a thread about the weight distribution set up. I tried that and it didn't help much. I already tightened the steering box and it has a factory rear sway bar. Wow, kinda scary. I know there is a thousand threads about this but it was so scary I wanted to trade it in so I could have something safer on the way home.

But wait it gets better.

So, I'm driving and all of a sudden it sounds like a jet plane is going to land on me. It's my cooling fan (I think). It's locking up at freeway speeds and now my temp gauge is raising. I stop and look and coolant is puking out of the overflow (I think). By the end of the day it puked so much it was out of coolant.

So, I fill it up and same thing on the way home.

The cooling thing plus it sounding like a jet plane bothers me. You can't even hold a conversation inside the truck it's so loud.

The sway thing has me scared. The rear seems a little soft and I was thinking air bags but I don't think that will change it totally. I asked a buddy who has an 04 f250 crew cab and he said he doesn't have the same problem. Maybe an allignment with max caster (I think it's caster that tilts the wheel in).

Any help. I can't be the first guy who climbed some grades with 10k with a PSD Ex. Please help.

 

We have a 04 Excursion with a 32 ft toy hauler and every thing is good but the sway its horible so if you find out the answer tell me please.
Thanks,
Nick

 

What Size And Type Of Tires Are You Runnin??

 

The tires are pretty new. They are BFG's All Terrain, 315 75 17, I think they are 35's. They are on Robby Gordon Wheels. It's set up for sand and the ability to have a large foot print in the sand since I do the Pismo (Oceano) Dune thing.

 

Do you have new rear springs or just a taller block? if it`s just a block, there`s your problem. you would need to get new leaves that do away with all the blocks and just keep a tapered spacer for pinion angle.

 

Aatcntrl1, i too have an '04 psd. it is my second and tuning it to carry the weight took me some effort. first, i installed bilsteins all around, airlift bags in the back, landyots radius rods, heavy duty wd hitch (i carry about 1500# of hitch weight), and e-rated tires at 80# when towing. works great! my 31' tt doesn't move and i get a very stable ride.

 

WHAT IS THE LOAD RATING OF THE TIRE C, D, OR E THAT MAKES A DIFFERNCE.
YOU AR SET UP FOR SAND, THAT MEANS YOU SHOULD HAVE A VERY SOFT SUSPENSION, TIGHTEN IT UP A BIT. STIFFER SPRINGS, AND SUCH, AND LIKE THE OTHER PERSON SAID(DIDNT SEE WHO SAID IT) IF RUNNING MULTIABLE BLOCKS THAT IS NOT GOOD.

 

Ok went outside and checked. The tires are acutally 315 70 17, oops. THe load range is D. It has a small 2 inch block with something that looks like it's for axle wrap. Has a rear sway bar, all looks stock. Lift is at the mounting points or hangers.

The truck is pretty soft and has a nice ride. I have a WD and tried two different chain settings. That helped a little. But I can't go any higher. I run FOX shocks so I think they do a pretty good job.

Maybe the bags will help and I keep on hearing about the Landyot radius rods. I'm assuming these are an anti sway set up. I'll have to look up cost.

On the coolant puking. I spoke with the service manager whom is a buddy of mine. He said I either have a blown head gasket or EGR cooler. Now I don't know what the EGR cooler is as I'm new to the diesel thing. If I do the EGR bypass do I still need the cooler. Maybe a dumb question but appreciate the patience.

By the way he said my truck will be down for a week and a half as they remove the engine to do head gaskets. Kinda dis-heartening when I just got it back from the dealer to get a new turbo. Talk about 6.0 blues.

 

The Radius Rods Are For Axle Wrap.

 

I think part of your issues are the tires being only D range and "max" pressure of 65psi vs the E range with 10 ply sidewalls and a "max" pressure of 80psi...the "flex" of the tire sidewall will greatly amplify any TT induced wiggle...swapping those pups out is probably NOT an option...so you will have to figure a way around it...


What type of hitch are you running? If a standard friction bar...we can greatly improve things.

If you have a Drawtite or Reese hitch adding something called a Dual Cam (DC) anti-sway device is only a matter of money (LOL)...and not that much either...less than $200. But if you DO have one of these hitches already...do you know about hitch head TILT?...this is a method of inserting washers or using the adjustments on the head to TILT the head AWAY from the Ex. This has the effect of putting MORE tension in the spring bars to transfer the proper amount of weight fore and aft...plus only a certified scale can tell for sure how much tongue weight you have and how much weight your WD is actually shifting. You must strive for 10-15% tongue weight on your TT. This provides for natural anti-sway. Also you must strive to return your FRONT axle of the Ex to the same UN-hitched WEIGHT...by the nature of dropping the tongue weight (TW) onto the REAR of the Ex...you UNLOAD the front axle...the WD spring bars "shift" weight BACK to the front axle and aids in steering control...given the softly sprung rear axles...they WILL sag...BUT with a proper match on the spring bar rating you CAN shift weight using the bars...that is CRUCIAL.

So a couple of answers as to what type of WD hitch you are running...by tilting the head...you "may" be able to pull up more tension without interfering with something on the trailer...

Good luck.

joe.

 

That's impressive. You sound like you know what your talking about. I think the hitch is a Reese. It doesn't have any antisway, but does have the provision. As far as tilting the head away, how do I figure how much tilt. I'm guessing adding washers to the top and not the bottom bolts. I really don't think the RV dealer has the knowledge to do what you were talking about. When I asked about about a sway system they told me ton try it first then buy a system if there was a problem. When I get home I will check out the head as it's sitting in my garage.

I can say that when towing it does have the feeling of the front tires not being on the ground. There is a little sag when all hooked up. Now I have a 1000lb system. Is that to small? Is it not transferring enough weight? I'm sorry about all the questions and I appreciate everyone helping. It's just I like the truck, but with mechanical woes and not towing real nice, I have no reason to keep it. I of course would lose $$$ in the process. So all the help in getting this dialed in is very much appreciated.

I hope to not swap out tires. I haven't even began to search for a tire that will fit my rims in the appropriate load range. I don't even know if it exists. So hopefully there is another fix. I see guys towing bigger and heavier with like rim and tire packages but I guess it doesn't mean that there not all over the road too.

 

also w/ a 4 inch lift, you are more than likely using a bid drop hitch (no sway control) or the TT is at a very bad angle for towing, in effect whipping you around like its not your business. on the tt, to match the height of the truck, it it usually possible to flip the TT's axles. You neep to try and get the TT up to the height of your X so its not at a bad angle, and then get the load distribution and sway bars all adjusted correctly ( makes huge diff)

 

Okay...I reread your first post.

At 10K#'s you should be able to dial this thing in...plus at "only" 28' that should make things easier...but it "may" come with a price...

Remember this is coming from someone towing 9000#'s and 34' ball to bumper...so my "lever" acting on the back of the Ex is longer...and the physics involved...well...let's stick with the 28' box.

I towed my 27' TT (30' ball to bumper) and 7500# TT near 7000 miles last year...it was a DREAM to tow...BUT I had the DC hitch.

Sounds like your dealer is like "many" of the RV dealers out there...so don't be too hard on him...I AGREE they should know MORE but sadly many do not...

So thats why there are places like this.

The good news is your length of TT is prime for a Reese DC...so that is good...get much over 30' and the DC with a less than optimally balanced setup is over its head (IMO).

So where do we start.

Well I mentioned head tilt.

Tilting the head on the Reese hitch head is accomplished by a serated washer and serated notches on the hitch head...the bolt hole is "slotted" and the washer sits in the notches in the desired position...I think I read 2 "notches" equates to roughly 1 chain link.

let's talk chain links...when I refer to links...I count the links UNDER TENSION...meaning the ones between the spring bar and hanger...I've found many count "loose" links...touble is most chains are varying lengths and I even helped one guy that had two DIFFERENT lengths of chain on the same trailer...so obviously "under tension" links were DIFFERNT if the loose ones were the same...IMO the ones under tension are the important ones we need to communicate on for this discussion.

So by moving the hitch head 2 notches...you basically gain 1 chain link of TENSION or WD shift...

Here is a post on RV.net on proper WD hitch setup...it utilizes a tape measure method to ensure that you have returned the front fenders to the unhitched height...but again only a scale unhitched and hitched can verify for sure you have your setup "tweaked".

http://http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/17730894.cfm

I would HIGHLY RECOMMEND you purchase a DC sway control...or Equal-i-zer brand WD hitch...more on that in a little bit...

Do you have round bars or "trunion" style? Also do you have "hooked" ends or flat?

Either can work they just require differnet kits...

Do you happen to know how much tongue you carry?...TH's can have VERY HEAVY tongues due to the water and fuel tanks up front...

IMO 1000# bars are not going to cut it...but FIRST do you know what the WD mode rating of your receiver is? Different year Ex's had anywhere from 1000-1250# ratings on the receivers...and here is the BAD NEWS...there are NO aftermarket receivers for the Ex due to I believe the liability issues with how Ford uses the receiver as part of the 'blocker' system for fart-canned 4 bangers from slipping UNDER our trucks...so...hopefully you have the 1250# receiver like I do...

Right there...could be your biggest issue...but if you do have the 1250# receiver...a 10K# TH SHOULD have 1000-1500# of tongue weight (TW)...BUT you will have to limit that to 1250 for your receiver...so where am i going...well you need 1200# or heavier bars...Reese makes 1700# ones but your receiver will negate your ability to load that heavy...plus it requires (I believe) a new hitch head...so look for 1200# ones...that fit that hitch head...

Keep in mind that by the time you invest in a DC and new bars...you can buy a NEW Equal-i-zer brand WD hitch with 1400# bars that includes sway control for under $400...that would be my approach if it were me...

you may need a heck of a drop shank as well...but the Equal-i-zer can be had with the right drop and STILL have WD and sway...at least I beleive so...much cheaper than flipping axles...

Help or confuse so far?


I'll let you digest that...we can continue afterwards...

joe.

 

Ok I think I'm following you. First off, I was wondering if the 1000lb set up was enough. I looked through the trailer lit to locate a tongue weight. Guess what? It's not there. Luckily enough, even though the folks I bought the trailer may not understand even what you are telling me, they will research for me, IE manufacturer. Since my trailer was the first 08 they don't have all the specs and even offered to move me up to a 1200lb setup (if the tongue weight calls for it). I spoke with a buddy who has a 26 foot trailer by the same company and he uses a 1000lb set up. He feels it's barely enough.

Now my trailer is almost 32 feet from tongue to bumper. Since it's a toyhauler it already sets up high. Actually if you look (I can email photos) the frame from the trailer sits up about the same as the truck. If I flipped the axles it would be way high. But I totally get what your saying and have seen other guys doing it.

Now, while I understand cars, trucks and hotrodding I'm relatively new to the towing thing. Other than to tow my boat which is a no brainer. Anyways a buddy was telling me about a hitch he read about that runs like 2 grand. Advertising close to 5th wheel type pull. Anyways I don't have that kind of dough. But the RV dealer is good at cutting me deals and if they carry that manufacturer they will be willing.

When I got home I pulled out the receiver and found I was again wrong. It's not a Reese. It's a Tough Tow TTR 1000. It advertises a max of 10,000lb. Which kinda scares me since my trailer has a GVW of 12,000lb. (Not that I would have it heavy) The WD has is round bars that taper towards the chain.

The head looks like it has a screw (large one) or bolt that can adjust the tilt. The top is a bold and has washers like you described. The bottom is just the bolt. I don't mean to be rude or self inviting but I could email pics to show this better.

I checked my receiver and it's a 12,500lb one as you described.

As far as a dropped shank, it won't be necessary. Like I explained, my trailer sits so high that the head is set up right at the receiver opening with no drop.

Thanks again for all your help. I was feeling sick eariler and now I feel like it might take a little work but in the end it will WORK.

 

Aatcntrl1,

Just sent you a PM...

joe.