Ranger Lighting Problems
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Ranger Lighting Problems
I just bought a 1997 Ford Ranger Supercab. My first Ford!
I have a few things going on..
My dome lights map lights and cargo lights do not work under any condition. The bulbs are all fine and the fuse # 27 I believe is ok. The brake light between the cargo lights does work fine btw.
My driver side door handle flops somewhat loosly but works fine.
The door ajar light will not turn off.
The other problem is the power steering.
On the steering gear the hose fitting with what looks like plastic surrounding it is leaking. (All lines are brand new as is the pump) I was warned one of the fittings threaded into plastic and could be stripped. What do I do to tighten this fitting?
Thank you so much. LOVE this truck.
I have a few things going on..
My dome lights map lights and cargo lights do not work under any condition. The bulbs are all fine and the fuse # 27 I believe is ok. The brake light between the cargo lights does work fine btw.
My driver side door handle flops somewhat loosly but works fine.
The door ajar light will not turn off.
The other problem is the power steering.
On the steering gear the hose fitting with what looks like plastic surrounding it is leaking. (All lines are brand new as is the pump) I was warned one of the fittings threaded into plastic and could be stripped. What do I do to tighten this fitting?
Thank you so much. LOVE this truck.
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 13,851
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From: SW Va
Welcome to FTE.
Check out the "Technical Info" thread atop this forums thread listing page. Scroll down to "Miscellaneous" and you'll find a thread about the "door ajar" lamp & what to do for it with WD-40.
On the cargo & overhead map lights, low on the drivers side dash is a verically mounted "thumb wheel" switch, that controles the brightness of the dash lights & if rotated up, until it "clicks", that will turn the dome & bed cargo lamps on.
On the P/S pump hose leak, I suppose you could remove most of the reservoirs fluid with a turkey baster & take the fitting loose & see if the threads are damaged beyond repair. If not I suppose you could try about 4 wraps with some plumbing PTFE ribbon dope & see if it'll check it up.
Don't get crazy with the ribbon dope & put too much on, or let any loose pieces get loose in the system, as it could stop something up. There are liquid thread sealants, but they are for metal threads, so I wouldn't suggest trying that on the plastic housing as it might get after the plastic & soften or stress crack it after things are tightened up.
Let us know how things go.
Check out the "Technical Info" thread atop this forums thread listing page. Scroll down to "Miscellaneous" and you'll find a thread about the "door ajar" lamp & what to do for it with WD-40.
On the cargo & overhead map lights, low on the drivers side dash is a verically mounted "thumb wheel" switch, that controles the brightness of the dash lights & if rotated up, until it "clicks", that will turn the dome & bed cargo lamps on.
On the P/S pump hose leak, I suppose you could remove most of the reservoirs fluid with a turkey baster & take the fitting loose & see if the threads are damaged beyond repair. If not I suppose you could try about 4 wraps with some plumbing PTFE ribbon dope & see if it'll check it up.
Don't get crazy with the ribbon dope & put too much on, or let any loose pieces get loose in the system, as it could stop something up. There are liquid thread sealants, but they are for metal threads, so I wouldn't suggest trying that on the plastic housing as it might get after the plastic & soften or stress crack it after things are tightened up.
Let us know how things go.
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Ok the thumb wheel dimmer doesnt click anywhere so I know thats broken and needs to be repaired or replaced. I have yet to open the door maybe I can get to that tomarrow.
Any tips on how to take the inner door panel off so I may replace the outer door handle and lubricate the workings? It is manual lock and crank window.
Autozone has a diagram of the latching mechanism but not the whole door.
I dont know much about Fords but have disassembled and reassembled a complete 72 Oldsmobile Cutlass. So I know how fragile and difficult hidden fasteners can be.
Again Thank You.
Any tips on how to take the inner door panel off so I may replace the outer door handle and lubricate the workings? It is manual lock and crank window.
Autozone has a diagram of the latching mechanism but not the whole door.
I dont know much about Fords but have disassembled and reassembled a complete 72 Oldsmobile Cutlass. So I know how fragile and difficult hidden fasteners can be.
Again Thank You.
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 13,851
Likes: 111
From: SW Va
Again if you'll go to the "Tech Info" thread located atop this forum & scroll down to the "Miscellaneous" section, you'll find a link on how to remove the door panel. Lots of other helpful repair info there too!!!!
You can quickly go there by scrolling up & clicking on "Ranger & B-series" in this threads header above. The Tech thread is the first one on the list.
On Edit: On the tumb wheel switch, when you rotate it up, the intrument lighting should be getting brighter as it hits the detent, then apply a little more force to get it to "click" past the detent.
You can quickly go there by scrolling up & clicking on "Ranger & B-series" in this threads header above. The Tech thread is the first one on the list.
On Edit: On the tumb wheel switch, when you rotate it up, the intrument lighting should be getting brighter as it hits the detent, then apply a little more force to get it to "click" past the detent.
Last edited by pawpaw; Jun 9, 2007 at 11:07 PM. Reason: add light switch comment
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I removed the inner door panel disconnected the wire to the switch looked it over.. it is well greased. I sprayed WD-40 over the entire latch mechanism inside and out. reconnected the switch and slammed the door a couple of times. This has no effect. I didnt expect much either.
The thing that bothers me about this problem is that the map lights do not turn on. They are powered from battery through the fuse through the switch up on the light then to the bulb. Basicly directly connected to battery with a switch in the middle right? The fuse is OK the bulb is OK and no lights are working. Does anyone know the color of wires I should trace and where to look for them? Where are they junctioned under the dash? Could this be the GEM box I've heard of?
The origional owner of this truck installed a CB radio and then removed it so I know under dash has probably been tinkered with.
Btw I've gotten the dimmer wheel to click if I force my thumb inward and upward on it almost hard enough to push it off its screws inside. Trying to see if I can get a working used one. It costs $102 at Autozone. Thats a little much for just the little click I need.
Thanks for the help. This forum is making repairs and upgrades cheaper and easier already.
The thing that bothers me about this problem is that the map lights do not turn on. They are powered from battery through the fuse through the switch up on the light then to the bulb. Basicly directly connected to battery with a switch in the middle right? The fuse is OK the bulb is OK and no lights are working. Does anyone know the color of wires I should trace and where to look for them? Where are they junctioned under the dash? Could this be the GEM box I've heard of?
The origional owner of this truck installed a CB radio and then removed it so I know under dash has probably been tinkered with.
Btw I've gotten the dimmer wheel to click if I force my thumb inward and upward on it almost hard enough to push it off its screws inside. Trying to see if I can get a working used one. It costs $102 at Autozone. Thats a little much for just the little click I need.
Thanks for the help. This forum is making repairs and upgrades cheaper and easier already.
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 13,851
Likes: 111
From: SW Va
The thing you needed to spray with the WD-40, in the door was the switch plunger. They stick & are a common problem. WD-40 sprayed into the door latch area, where the switch is, usually works.
You shouldn't have to push that hard, to turn the dome light on. Sounds like the rheostat is all corroded up. Maybe spritz it with a good electrical contact cleaner, if that doesn't work, maybe it's salvage yard time!!!!
You shouldn't have to push that hard, to turn the dome light on. Sounds like the rheostat is all corroded up. Maybe spritz it with a good electrical contact cleaner, if that doesn't work, maybe it's salvage yard time!!!!
