New flywheel?
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From: Graham, WA
New flywheel?
Recently I bought a new 1984 F-250 4x4 that needs a new flywheel. My usual mechanic is tied up. I need this truck running soon. Is there someone who could give a link or explain in detail how to replace the flywheel for someone of limited mechanical experience? The usual guy I go to said he wanted to pull the engine and do the job but the more I read it seems that this isn't necessary.
Also, the flywheel I have to replace the other has rust on it. Is it necessary to bring it to a machine shop?
If you want to know why I am replacing it... the guy who sold me the truck said that the other flywheel isn't strong enough for the re-bored 351w he put in the truck.
Any help appreciated.
--John
Also, the flywheel I have to replace the other has rust on it. Is it necessary to bring it to a machine shop?
If you want to know why I am replacing it... the guy who sold me the truck said that the other flywheel isn't strong enough for the re-bored 351w he put in the truck.
Any help appreciated.
--John
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From: Graham, WA
Oh, sorry... This one is a manual transmission. 3 drive gears and one reverse.
Shoot
-- edit to previous post: year is 1983 (don't know if that makes much difference.
Shoot
-- edit to previous post: year is 1983 (don't know if that makes much difference.
Last edited by oneminizut; Jun 9, 2007 at 06:38 PM.
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From: Kuna ID
Originally Posted by Sport45
Is it running now? If so, just leave well enough alone. I've never heard of anyone boring an engine out enough to make a flywheel inadequate.
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oneminizut I'll just repeat some info so that it gets in here as a reminder. I'd missed that before: If the old flywheel isn't warped or teeth missing why does it need replacing? Describe the problems or noises it has while driving, or that you can see...
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Originally Posted by RexB, Nighthawk285
Disconnect a battery terminal. Remove the starter. Block up the tranny, or preferably support it using a rolling tranny jack. Remove the forward end of the driveshaft from the rear of the bellhousing. Separate the tranny from the engine at the front of the bell housing. Move the tranny a few inches to the rear. The big toothed flywheel at the front of the tranny bell housing can then be unbolted.
*If reusing an old flywheel, it's best to resurface it with a diamond-wheel flywheel grinder at a shop.
After your new flywheel is installed, bolt the tranny back to the motor etc. When you bolt the starter back on be careful to shim it correctly so that it smoothly engages the flywheel when starting the engine.
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its pretty much what rex said for toughness....
not really that bad, also, you would need to disconnect front & rear drivelines, maybe transfer case linkage, trans linkage, but thats just to get enough backsliding room to get the tranny far enough back to where you can actually get in there and do something.......
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...here's pictures of a flywheel (first picture) and clutch during disassembly.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...utch-pics.html
*If reusing an old flywheel, it's best to resurface it with a diamond-wheel flywheel grinder at a shop.
After your new flywheel is installed, bolt the tranny back to the motor etc. When you bolt the starter back on be careful to shim it correctly so that it smoothly engages the flywheel when starting the engine.
-
its pretty much what rex said for toughness....
not really that bad, also, you would need to disconnect front & rear drivelines, maybe transfer case linkage, trans linkage, but thats just to get enough backsliding room to get the tranny far enough back to where you can actually get in there and do something.......
-
...here's pictures of a flywheel (first picture) and clutch during disassembly.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...utch-pics.html
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From: Graham, WA
I don't know if it's warped or has teeth missing. I have never actually run the truck but the guy is my wifes student and I trust in him that it does run. I just remember that he told me he put a rebuilt engine in and that it would be bad for the current flywheel. I doubt it was a racing motor. It's more like a hauling truck. The rebuilt has about 2,500 miles on it. I know that he works with a guy at a machine shop often and they build custom race engines. Wouldn't make sense that he would put one in this truck though. Besides the fact that he couldn't afford it. I would ask him but the problem lies in the fact that he knows I'm inexperienced and he doesn't like when I start wrenching on things because he has to backtrack. I'm a little fed up with waiting so if he isn't out here by next weekend I'm gonna give it a go. I just need to put the new dizzy and module in. I have one of those (msd?) kits.
Hey Rex... I don't have a rolling jack. How big does the block have to be. I'm assuming large enough to move the tranny back a foot or two?
Hey Rex... I don't have a rolling jack. How big does the block have to be. I'm assuming large enough to move the tranny back a foot or two?
Last edited by oneminizut; Jun 10, 2007 at 01:15 PM.
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From: Too close to Houston
I wouldn't worry about the flywheel unless it's really a problem. Drive the truck. If it runs smooth and the clutch acts okay leave it alone. The only thing that comes to mind that would require replacing the flywheel is if he used one from a model year that has the wrong imbalance. If he did, you'd know it pretty quick from the shaking.
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Originally Posted by oneminizut
... I don't have a rolling jack. How big does the block have to be. I'm assuming large enough to move the tranny back a foot or two?
If you do end up replacing the flywheel then put blocks under the tranny up to the height where it now sits bolted on. {Those suckas are heavy/awkward, you won't like trying to manually lift it up back into alignment during reassembly.} Blocks long enough to slide it back a foot or so should be far enough to get a wrench in and take it off. The less distance you have to slide it back away from the motor, the better.
And put small blocks, like short 2x2's or 2x4's, on each side of the tranny to keep it from rolling off as you're sliding it back. It can break an arm.
Last edited by RexB; Jun 11, 2007 at 07:27 AM.
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From: Too close to Houston
Originally Posted by oneminizut
Is there someone who could give a link or explain in detail how to replace the flywheel for someone of limited mechanical experience?
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From: Graham, WA
One thing I'm good at is lifting heavy... stuff
I just want to make sure I have the right guidance so I don't screw up the mechanical side.
I am a beginner, but I know I can do it if I'm told how to do it. I appreciate everyones help. One of these days I'll have both trucks running. lol
I just want to make sure I have the right guidance so I don't screw up the mechanical side.
I am a beginner, but I know I can do it if I'm told how to do it. I appreciate everyones help. One of these days I'll have both trucks running. lol
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From: fargo, nd
all the 351w motors use the same 28oz imbalance... the only thing i can think of is he didnt get the rotating assembly balanced at the machine shop... in which case your bearings are probably toast. if it runs smooth though its probably fine.
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Here's something that will help you immensely for as long as you own this vehicle, go to your local auto supply and buy a Chilton's or Hayne's repair manual that covers your vehicle. There is a little more to replacing a flywheel than anyone has told you so far, such as disconnecting the shift linkage, and purchasing/using a clutch alignment tool, among other things.I also agree that if it a'int broke-don't fix it, but if you're bound and determined to do this, I would consider replacing the clutch disc, pressure plate and throw-out bearing while I had it apart, because these usually fail before a flywheel and they are relatively inexpensive compared to the labor charge involved in having them replaced.
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From: Virginia
The guy that sold you the truck is pulling your leg. There is no such thing as an engine being too powerful for the stock flywheel. The only non-stock flywheels are the high rpm units that are required for drag racing rules.
Beware that could be an excuse for something else being wrong with the truck.
Beware that could be an excuse for something else being wrong with the truck.