hi all, name is trin, live in terlingua texas, but am currently in san antonio for a year or so.

just traded my 85 f350 for a 63 f100, so far i am happy with it, but needs a lot of work.

heres the door panel info
f10jd400648
body=81b trans=b axle=13 dso=613230

looks like the previous owner swapped transmissions, but not certain yet, clutch needs replacing, steering is far beyond sloppy, right turn signal works when it feels like it, horn doesn't work.

my current plans for it are:

• dismantle the steering wheel and see if i can get the signal and horn working.
• fix the clutch and maybe rebuild tranny at the same time.
• replace the tie rod ends and drag link.
• when i have a chance to go back to terlingua, grab the front axle, springs, driveshaft, transfer case, steering box, and ps pump (if it has ps that is) from an old full size jeep. figure it will give me front discs, 4wd, and better steering for a fraction of the cost of a replacement steering box.
• install aftermarket fuse block inside for accesories and under the hood with some relays for lighting

right now, my main concerns are the clutch and steering. just need to have it driveable enough to grab the fsj parts and make it back here.

trin

 

Welcome to the board.

The turn signal switch/horn might have dirty contacts or the plastic is warped under the steering wheel. From there check the wiring harness for bad grounds or broken shielding. Most likely the horn doesn't work because the previous owner didn't swap out the horn relay when it went south. It's mounted on the inner passeneger fender, 1x2x1 rectangle box with a three prong connector. You can bypass the relay with a jumper wire to see if the horns work.

I did a fuse block replacement 3 months ago it is really easy as long as you use a schematic. I pulled a fuse block out of a 70 something lincoln at a salvage yard. You can find a wiring schematic online by typing "64 f-100 wiring schematic" in google to pull one up. Should be on the old car manual project website. I know it is for a 64 but it is good reference material none the less.

The steering maybe more then a simple tierod/drag link replacement. There is an adjustment screw on top of the steering gear box that you can play with to take some of the slop out. Not a sure thing though. Sometimes the steering gearbox housings crack or the teeth strip out from years of use.

If the axle swap doesn't pan out not a biggie. There is a tech article on the site for swapping to disc brakes. I think the guy that wrote it did a decent job with pictures and explaining it.

 

Hello Trin:

I've been here just a few weeks myself.

I'm bringing a 1966 F250 back from the dead.

The fellows here have been a godsend with their advice and resources.

Good luck with your project, these people speak from their experience. If there's anyone here that has ever pulled off what your about to try, you'll definitly hear from them.

I myself know nothing of Jeeps, but will be interested in following the thread.

All the best,

Gregory

 

Welcome to FTE

F10 = F100

J = 223 I-6

D = Dallas TX Assembly Plant

400648 = Assembled in April 1963

81B = Custom Cab

B = 3 Speed Borg Warner Overdrive

13 = Ford 9 Inch Rear Axle / 4.11-1 / 3300lb Axle Capacity

61 = Dallas Texas Ford Sales Zone Office

3230 = Special Order Invoice Number

Your truck was ordered by the original purchaser from FoMoCo with special features, not off some dealers lot. When vehicles were (and still are) ordered from Ford, they were assigned a special 6 digit DSO (Domestic Special Order) number. The first two digits reflected where the truck was ordered from (Dallas), the last 4 digits are the invoice number for the special features. The overdrive and 4.11-1 gear ratio were not considered special, so something else was done. Either a special body was installed, or a paint color not available on your truck would be a special order. It also could be something else.

 

Hey Bill is Trin missing the exterior color data number to add to his vin code decipher you did?
Oh; also welcome aboard there Trin;
Mitch

 

Thanks for the welcome guys

airharley:
am going to get on the turn signal switch and horn as soon as i locate my steering wheel puller, don't remember if i put it back in the garage here in san antonio (last time i used it) or left it in the jeep which is now in terlingua.. i sprayed a little pb blaster on the turn signal switch and it is semi working now, so most likely just corrosion. the horn, well, i will hopefully get into tearing the column apart tomorrow. the fuse blocks are coming way later, for now i am just going to run a power cable to the opposite side of the engine compartment, install 2 relays and 2 inline fuses, figure it will take the load off the switch when i replace the headlights with xenons (live in a desert, need to see those deer before they see me) the steering is much more than the drag link and tie rod ends, the box is mounted tight, but when you torque the wheels to the side, the output shaft where the pitman arm mounts moves up and over 1/4"-1/2".. i just need it tight enough to make a 1000 mile roundtrip or so.. sa to terlingua and back, figure i can borrow the oxy-actelyne rig and get all the front end componenets i need off the old jeep.

gregory:
thanks i looked around the forum a bit first as this is my first non-motorcycle project this old. all i want to do with it really is get the mechanical side working well, then redo the wiring. right now the truck is primer gray, has a few body dings, rhino-hide lined bed with some cancer spots on the bed floor, and a custom rear bumper. i like it looking like an old farm truck, more my style, the jeep is the 'looker' in the group, at least until i figure out how to remove the body from the olds bravada and start building a model-t style replacement shell for it.

numberdummy:
I think the custom portion would be the paint, as near as i can tell the original paint color is a yellowish creme color, almost like the inside of a banana peel. unfortunately the door tag does not have the color code listed. and as a second unfortunately, i am 99% sure the overdrive transmission was replaced. am starting to wonder if i should grab the tranny from the fsj as well since it should be a 4 or 5 speed, no clue if it will bolt right up though, one of the jeep guys i know claims that the old ****** full size jeeps had essentially the same inline 6 as the fords, so it may mount right up.. will know more as i dive into this project.

 

Hey im new here too and i just baught a 1963 Ford F100 Unibody also that also need some work but im pretty close to get it running and im very excited to drive it.

 

I noticed that, Mitch..that's why I referenced the paint color for the possibility that it might be one of the special features.


EDIT: No paint code = special color. Sometimes Ford put the letters S or P there. S meant...special paint color, P meant prime...that's right, you could once order a truck with primer coats only.


Before you pull the wheel, be prepared. The upper flange has bearings (C3DZ-3517-A) and retainers (B1AZ-3518-A), that by now are prolly history, so you should replace them. There are two, one mounted into the top of the flange, one below.


Removing the horn ring = push down, turn to the left...there's a coil spring...so remove the ring carefully. The ring is held on to the wheel with a plastic retainer (C2DZ-13A809-A) that has three "ears." One of the ears might be broken, or break off when the ring is removed.


Under the horn ring, behind a metal plate is a rubber cushion (C0DZ-13A813-A). Over time, it falls apart to nothing. When it fails. the horn blows...by itself.


There are also a horn brush and plastic insulator (C2OZ-13A821-A) mounted into the wheel, under the ring. The brush is made from copper with a coil spring attached...broken, the horn won't blow. It could also be missing...look for an empty hole on the right side of the wheel.


Note to fellow 1965 (and later) owners. the horn brush isn't used after 1964, and in the case of the bearings, are located in different places.

 

NumberDummy:
have the horn ring off, disassembled it, cleaned it thoroughly, and hit it with a coat of rustoleum hammered copper. the plastic retainer (amazingly) is intact, the rubber bit is non-existant, as for the brush and plastic insulator... mine has a hole on the left side, a small copper rod, and a spring under it. so far all i have done is remove the horn ring, clean it, paint it, repair the center emblem with some contact cement, reassembled it all, and let it bake for a few days on the floorboard to set the paint. took a look around the garage for the puller, but no go yet, will check again tomorrow.

i also took apart all the in cab connections and cleaned them with red-oil (deoxit), replaced most of the gauge lights, painted one of the lights blue for the high beam indicator, ran a new wire to the fuel tank sensor, cleaned the grounds i could find, sprayed the tie rod ends and drag link ends with pb blaster to prepare for removal, used a 2x4 and a lead pipe to bang out the front fender dent that was messing with my headlight alignment, and got the thing up on ramps so i can mess with it more this weekend. definately a fun project, and i already like it more than my f350. oh yeah, i also rebuilt the backlight assembly from a 15" lcd monitor and added a 12-volt dual ccfl inverter to it so i can install it flushmount as a cab light (the major thing next to the cigar lighter that looks to have never been installed).

FordF100man:
I originally was having this one delivered, the guy i traded with had a trailer but lacked a towing rig, so he hooked everything up to the f350 i traded him, started loading the f100, and... blew the f100's front passenger tire.. long story short, we switched them out, and i drove it home from kendalia, tx (around 50 miles).. wasn't a bad drive really, the steering was really bad, but other than that it was a fun drive in a truck without seatbelts :P i had a chase vehicle just in case it didn't make it, she clocked me doing around 70mph, so it seems to run great even without overdrive. while under it today i noticed the exhaust is rusted out, so next paycheck will probably pick up a cherry bomb from pep boys and weld it in.

 

Left side, went by memory..oh well...the spring/brush is still connected, right...and the plastic insulator, still there?

No lighter = there will be a chromed flat plug. If you add a lighter, Ford used a barrel shaped lighter fuse (FEW-14429-A) that screwed to the socket, then the wire plugged to the fuse.

 

not sure if they are still connected or not, i can say that one major peoblem seems to be that the horn is blown.. last night i jumpered from the battery to the wired terminal on the horn itself, small spark, no sound. so my major to-do's today are 1) find the steering wheel puller, 2) pull the wheel and clean contacts, basic maintenance.. failing that, i will probably take the time to adjust the holley 1904, right now it seems to be running too rich, with choke off it bogs when i hit the gas, with choke pulled out about 1/4-1/2" it responds fine, also idle seems to be a bit too fast but i have no idea where i put the electronic tach, so doing it by ear.

 

Hmm... closing the choke actually cuts down on the amount of air taken in by the engine.

If you google the brand or type of tach you can find the installation instructions online. Most likely through the manufacturers website. Like if you have a Stewart Warner... http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/stewarn8a.htm

 

well, i adjusted the carb, it runs and sounds much better, still a little unresponsive, but no clue when the carb was last rebuilt (if ever). the tach i have is an induction tach we use at the shop in terlingua, unfortunately, i have a feeling it is still in terlingua i think i may grab a programmable shift light and just replace the gen light with it. in other news, still no sign of the puller, if i get paid today, will go down and borrow one from autozone.

edit: and sorry, had just woken up, meant it seemed to be running too lean, it is still bogging a bit when you first give it gas, but if you ease into it, then punch it, it's fine.. the main thing is, the idle is much slower and smoother now, and it's running without the choke on

 

Bogging on acceleration is the USUAL problem caused by faulty acc pump diaphrams on Ford 2V carbs, but what an Edelbrock uses, I haven't a klew.

 

Home made steering wheel puller: Remove nut and washer, Soak shaft with blaster. Put nut on with flat side up flush with end of shaft. Have someone pull up on wheel as hard as they can and hit the nut square on hard with a 3 or 4 # soft hammer. It will come off. Don't hit the guy in the head that is pulling up on the wheel.