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OK, I checked with a few more hotrod guys I know. My one friend (with a 53) had the same problem. He stated no matter what he did, it would not correct the problem. He installed a 4 link system and said he was able to have adjustments to the rearend and it resolved his problem. No more shimmy even at high speeds. The other guy stated that you can still have the problem similar to a pinion angle if the engine mounts and engine were not put in properly. In otherwords, the engine is not straight and slightly tilted to the left or right. He said he had a car where the guys welded the motor mounts to the frame not evenly and the engine was shifted enought to offset the driveline. He removed the motor mount/ engine mounts and reset them in the proper place and the problem went away. A couple more suggestions. Hope this becomes a simple solution for ya Joe.
The pinion angle should match the angle of the trans as much as possible. Usually the trans is at a downward angle (slightly) so you would want the pinion at the same angle only upward. This keeps both u-joints working at the same angles. You would also want some degree from zero, if a u-joint runs perfectly straight the needle bearings won't turn.
I'm going to have to add my vote to the u-joint guys. Did you have your caps off at any point during the install? Do you recall dropping a cap? There is the possibility one of the needles fell out or over inside the cap resulting in some play in one of the joints. As others have said if it is the u-joint it should be worse under power and nearly stop in neutral.
I'd like to re-ask my question as of 8a.m. in the morning this morning. Good Morning! Where does one place the angle finder on the driveline components to measure the repective angles?? Trans housing? tailshaft? the flat of one of the yoke ears on the rear end?
You need to place the angle finder on a spot on the tranny that is parallel to the centerline of the spine shaft on the transmission and a place on the rear yoke that is also parallel to the centerline of the yoke. Does that make sense. I know what I mean, just not sure I have explained it properly.
Lastnight I got underneath and pulled the driveshaft. Got a reading from the tailshaft(Raerjim couldn't find a better spot to get a reading from the motor) on the tranny of 3 degrees down and a reading from the yoke on the rearend of 6 to 7 degrees up. Had 2 and 4 degree shims and decided to try the 2 degree first. Installed the 2 degree shims and put er back together and went for a test drive. Found that it did lessen the vibration a little but did not eliminate it, seemed to moved it to a higher speed. So next move is to replace the 2 degree shims with the 4 degree and test it again. Did get to have some fun with a Rousch Mustang on my test drive though for a couple of blocks. Thats a story for another day. Anyway I did feel like the addition of the shims had an affect on the vibration even though it didn't eliminate it, yet. So will keep trying.
Ed, will check the alignment of the motor mounts and see if they are level.
That's fine, Larry. That's what i figured, just wanted some confirmation. I'm about to order dropped spindles, so info will come into play. Joe- I should have my bed wood reinstalled this weekend after 2 months (i think) after some setbacks with the finish, work, and most importantly, my Dad's throat cancer. We will be at the Strawberry Classic show in Plant City next Saturday. Any chance you can join us? I expect there will be 350 cars.
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