I just got a used tailgate to replace mine.....it's almost mint.......but it's also bright red.......I'm not ready to spend the $2500 I'm being quoted for a paint job yet........but....I would like to change the color of this gate and use it.

Local auto paint store can make me a rattle cans of Iris......
What should I do to the tailgate to prep it for the color change? Does it need more than just the clear coat removed? should it be primed first? Not looking for a pro job.....just passable for now.

Second.....What size compressor and what type of gun would be good for a novice to learn to spray paint? I have experience with rattle cans both inside and outside of vehicles.......but.......nothing more than that......so I need "painting 101".

Third......The letters "FORD" are decals on the Flareside tailgate. Separate letters. Can they be removed and re-used? I have my original gate to experiment with....but am unsure if they are cleared or not......I can catch a fingernail on the edge easily........it seems they might come off with heat?

Thanks for any advice.

Bob

 

I would do is get new letters because when you take them off chances are very good the stickers will stretch when you take them off. If you are just starting out with painting in general and want a decent job don't use rattle can period. The red colors are more expensive because of the pigment. A 30 gallon compressor is good. The tailgate will be a good practice piece because its not huge but its not small. Generally if the paint is 2 years or older you need primer. I myself use primer no matter what because primer is used to filling scratches n smooth everything out. You can sand all the way down to the sheet metal if you want but you can sand down to the color also then prime it and sand the primer smooth then color/clear it. If you are using acrylic enamel you dont need clear but you can spray clearcoat if you like after it sets up. Heres what I do.....
*For base/clear systems*
1. 80 or 100 grit for cuttin through clearcoat
2. I spray a 2k urethane surfacer (sandable) for starting out & sand that.
3. Sand primer with grit ranging from 150 - 220
4. Spray color coats (depending on what type of paint you get depends on amount of coats)
5. Spray clearcoat - (generally i spray 3 coats minimum)
6. Wet sand and buff clearcoat if needed

*For Enamel systems*
1. 80 or 100 grit for cuttin through clearcoat
2. Spray a 2k urethane surfacer (sandable) for starting out & sand that, sand primer with grit ranging from 150 - 220.
3. Repeat #2 until the piece is completely smooth
4. Spray the enamel - generally 3 coats is good
The "economic" Enamels usually do not cover as well as the good stuff, same goes for the basecoat/ clearcoat systems
When I spray its usually at 40psi for air pressure. Home Depot sells a gun from Husky which is around 80 bucks from what I remember its ok gun until its clogged so keep it clean. It is and HVLP style which means High volume Low Pressure if you did not know that yet.

 

I probably wouldn't use rattle can either. Size of compressor really depends on what gun you are using. They all have different air requirements. You must match the cfm requirements stated for the spray gun, and make sure the ratings on the compressor meets or excedes that. But being you are doing just a small peice you may not need quite as much, cause the compressor will have time to build up between coats, and you not attempting to get around a whole truck. Some conventional guns have pretty low air requirements, Back in my early years I painted with a cheap conventional with lower air requirements and a 3 hp 110 compressor. It would be running constantly and have to let catch up a little on a complete car, but not too bad. Run full pressure off the tank and regulate at the gun. You will also need a trap located at least 25' feet of line away from the compressor to help filter out moisture in the line from the compressor. If your compressor has a small 1/4 airhose, you might want to step up and buy 3/8.
If the tailgate is in pretty good shape, and the paint is sound, I'd consider sanding it with a 6" dual action or orbital sander around 180-220 and using an epoxy reduced as a sealer shot just prior to painting. If you don't have a sander, then I'd do it with around 320-400 wet or 240-320 dry. If you don't seal, then you will likely have to go a bit finer if using a basecoat. Sanding by hand will produce a courser scratch then when done by machine. If you apply the epoxy well and spray your color within its time window, generally a few days, depending on brand, you won't have to sand the epoxy at all. You may want white, ask the place that mixes your paint what the best sealer color for paint coverage for the particular color you are spraying. Hard to give advice how to prep and procede with your piece not seeing it in person. Might want to spray a test panel first to see how good a match you got. With any paint, but exspecially If you do spray activated paint, you absolutely need ventilation and proper protection, cover your skin eyes and protect your respiratory system. Iso's in activator are attracted to moisture and can enter into your system through all of those.
You could rattle can it, but I wouldn't expect it to match (well maybe if the paint store mixes you some up, but likely mixing a single stage enamel code so it has gloss and because it doesn't require hardener which would harden up in the spray bomb can, while your truck probably have base clear. Also being unactivate, won't hold up nowhere as well as an activated urethane.And red is the color most likely to fade soon, specially not being activated and having the uv protection of an activated clearcoat. When and if you get the truck painted, they might want to sand that unactivated stuff back off. I agree with hemi, very unlikely you will be able to save the letters. Order some, or have or stop or order from one of the many vinyl graphics shops and have them make you some.