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New Engine--PANIC!!!!

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Old Jun 3, 2007 | 08:51 PM
  #16  
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On the same note, fuel being present at the schrader valve doesn't mean it's at the right pressure -- double-check it with a gauge, should read 30-40 psi. Also, you'll want to check your fuel pressure regulator -- if there are signs of fuel in the vacuum line, it needs replacement. As Jeff said, timing may not be dead on, as well as "new" doesn't always mean "good". Check for strong blue spark. You may also want to consider that you may have had the #1 piston at TDC on the wrong stroke, so you may have to re-do or double-check that. Things being 180 degrees out will definitely not help starting it.
 
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Old Jun 4, 2007 | 09:00 PM
  #17  
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Fuel Pressure / Timing

Hey Kernel, I'll get the adapter Schrader valve for my fuel pressure gauge and see if the pressure is enough. ffice

As far as the timing, the way I set it was I brought the timing marks on the harmonic balancer in alignment with the bolted on reference gauge / timing mark. Anyhow, the mark lined up to 0 (zero).

I doubled check by taking a flashlight to peak inside the #1 cyl. through the spark plug hole to confirm that the piston was all the way up. I also used a plastic straw that I stuck inside the hole while I turned the harmonic balancer’s bolt and watched for it going up or down--it fits with where the timing marks are lined up.

After this I matched the direction that the rotor was pointing relative to the #1 cyl. and I inserted the distributor and once in--the rotor did align in the direction of the #1Cyl. The marking on the distributor cap that indicates #1 also aligns with all of this. Does this all sound right? <O
 
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Old Jun 4, 2007 | 09:06 PM
  #18  
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That all sounds good. Just make sure that GROUNDS are grounded GOOD..Body, engine, battery. That will deffinately cause starting problems..especially with fuel injection if things are not grounded properly. ..I just found that out two weeks ago after dropping a motor into a heep cherokee..the guy didnt connect the ground strap that went from the block to the body and all the motor would do is spin...Bolted that strap right to the firewall and hit the key and it fired right up.
 
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Old Jun 4, 2007 | 10:08 PM
  #19  
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The crank will pass that timing mark 2 times for every revolution of the camshaft. The
only way to be sure is take out 1 spark plug, put finger over hole and feel for air push
ing on your finger as you near the mark, if air isn't pushing on your finger you will be
180 out.
 
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Old Jun 4, 2007 | 11:10 PM
  #20  
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Yep. I would have to agree with wantitlifted's input. I didn't think I was losing my mind, and I couldn't remember an easy way to check for proper stroke alignment. You should not only be able to feel air escape, but hear it... although, it'd be easier to feel than hear, I guess. Depends on if you're as deaf as I am sometimes!
 
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Old Jun 4, 2007 | 11:49 PM
  #21  
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setting the timing

Good idea. I will do that--set the marks to zero as is, remove the #1 spark plug and see if I feel air and if I don't I'll remove the distributor and re-insert with a 180 degree difference. I'll do that tomorrow and let you know how that turns out.
 
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Old Jun 7, 2007 | 09:14 PM
  #22  
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well?? how did things go? Got it running?
 
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Old Jun 8, 2007 | 04:30 PM
  #23  
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Haven't had the chance

So, I still haven't had the time to check the timing (as funny as that sounds). I did however; check the fuel pressure with my gauge and it registers 40 psi. holding steady. I think I am also going to check the injectors' electrical plug using a noid light [plug]. I also picked up a tester that checks for spark--looks just like a spark plug with a gator clip ground. Once I rule that stuff out and the timing is set--it should start, right? Or should I be looking at other less obvious things like using dialectic grease when I reconnected all of the wiring? Thanks for all of the help.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>
 
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Old Jun 19, 2007 | 02:33 PM
  #24  
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Found the problem

Well, I looked and looked and looked some more and could not find the problem. So I took it to friend's shop and after goinb through everythinig, he discivered that the control module and pick up coil are bad. I never thought of looking at those specific things since the distributor is new--someone even said in the thread that new isn't always good. Anyhow, I am replacing those parts today and I should have a spark and finally a start. I'll let you know. I still have all of the breaking in to do.
Originally Posted by Help I M Stuck
well?? how did things go? Got it running?
 
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Old Jun 20, 2007 | 10:51 PM
  #25  
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It's running!

Hey Help, Kernel, and company--it started and sounds pretty good. I did the initial break in--rev to 2500 and other RPMs for X amount of time and I let it run for several minutes---cooling system is working, oil pressure is holding, and it's idling OK, but I have a few vacuum lines to test and check. I'll let you know how things go--I still need to drive it and see how everything else is doing.
Originally Posted by Help I M Stuck
well?? how did things go? Got it running?
 
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Old Jun 21, 2007 | 02:57 AM
  #26  
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Good deal!
 
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