Hello guys....I'm new to the board and new to y-blocks. My question is: can you build a 239 to increase its power? 272,292,and 312's are scarce around here. I'd like to try to build what I have in my sedan delivery.

Thanks
Gerald

 

I put a ECZ 9425 B manifold and accompanying stock Holley 4v on mine (which would be the stock setup from a 1957 312). I did go thru the carb and tune it. I also put on a newer style distributor in place of the Load O Matic, and also had to replace the oil pump (because of the newer hex driveshaft mandated by the distributor).

There was a large difference in performance, driveability, and mileage, all to the positive. I would have liked to have run duals, but didn't get the chance yet. That motor (239) is still on the stand, but one day, when I finish it, it will have ECZ-G heads and my set of Ramshorns -- I'll post what that does when I'm done.

(added) -- I'm sure that you recognize that you won't be able to make a 239 suitable for "heavy duty" applications, such as dealing with big blocks or even smaller fry. It isn't any larger than the mundane 6 cylinder "bread and butter" engines of the past, with low compression and a very mild cam. If your expectations are reasonable, however, I think you'd find the increases you can obtain to be gratifying.

 

Thanks for all the help. Can you give me the numbers for the distributor that you used? The 239 I have is EBU casting....do you know if mine is the 13-tooth distributor gear or 14-tooth? Is it any trouble to install the newer style oil pump? What year pump do I replace it with? I recently picked up a 4-bbl intake at a swap meet casting #ECB-9425-B. Instead of using the teapot carb I'm using 2 Holley 94's and an adapter plate from Vintage Speed. I also have dual exhaust manifolds to use. Is there a performance camshaft for the 239? Thanks for all th info!

Gerald

 

It is on the rig at the moment -- but from memory I can tell you that it was from a 1960 truck (from the number) and it has 10* advance (20* crank) in it, which I consider to be just right. (If you check the link to my Y Block page, I've written a little piece on tuning ignition, which covers how I like to set it up.)

It could be either. One sure way is to pull the distributor. Or, you can look over the block for a casting indicator. A "C" with an "F" inside ON THE BLOCK indicates a Cleveland 14 tooth motor. A "DIF" indicates a Dearborn motor, which is 13 tooth. The CF is usually cast on the passenger side, front of the block halfway between the deck and the pan rail, between the timing cover and the side of the block.

Not too much. You need to make sure that you get a good seal on the oil pick up pipe to pump joint. Use a new rubber compression collar. Scrape the gasket well from the block and don't get any dirt inside. The pump is outside of the engine and pretty easy to get, altho the oil pickup tube requires some patience. Usually on 239s, the other end of the pickup tube is bolted to the side of the pan -- you don't want leaks there. The newer style has a one-piece pickup tube. You will need a hex driveshaft for the pump to fit the new style distributor.

Also, remember that you can take the 13 tooth gear from your Load O Matic and use it on the new style distributor if you are careful in removing it and installing it on the new distributor (in case your motor is a Dearborn).

You can take your choice: you can get an iron pump with spur gears, which is just like what you have, but with a hex drive, rather than a tang and blade drive. Or, you can get the newer aluminum pump that is a gearotor design. I like the iron body, but the gearotor design pumps better and transmits less vibration pulses to the distributor.

If your motor is a Cleveland, then you can use any Y Block cam. If it is a Dearborn, then you have to use a special Dearborn cam, because the cam bearings are of a different size.

Remember that, in order to change the cam, you have to lift up the lifters in order to get the cam out, and that you can't just pull them out of the motor from the top, because the mushroom design won't allow that. If you drop one into the motor, you'll have to do what needs to be done to get it out from underneath.

Also, altho I'm sure that performance cams are available, I am also sure that they will be somewhat difficult to locate and expensive, compared to a Cleveland Y cam. I haven't looked -- maybe someone else has experience here.

You are dealing with 7.2:1 compression motor to begin with, and you are not going to be able to get a lot more power from the motor very easily without spending a lot of money. If you are going to spend a lot of money, starting with a 272/292 makes more sense.

Given the trouble and expense of finding a cam and changing it without tearing the motor down, I would suggest sticking with what's in there. Instead, consider trying to find the 1.5 ratio rockers or even buying a set of custom aluminum 1.6 ratio rockers. That will make the cam "act" bigger. You will always be able to use the rockers on another engine if you decide to build a different one in the future, too.

Whatever you do in the cam dept., make sure your springs are up to the challenge and don't coil-bind. I'm not too keen on the stock Ford retainers, either. If you go with a substantially different cam, the expenses will mount up quickly and you still won't get what you could have had with a larger engine.