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To cut a long story short, 6 months ago someone reversed into my van with the door open & bent the original door too badly to be repaired economically. I've had another fitted but the job was done very poorly. The window was falling out of it's track (which I've now fixed). Also I have a "door ajar" light on , which I've tracked to a faulty latch switch. To the main problem, there is now spring in the hinges & the alignment is a bit off & slaming the door is driving me nuts & I'm going to do something about it. The repair shop told me the door hinges are not adjustable for alignment , but I find that hard to believe!
So is it true that the hinges & especially brackets are not adjustable & if they are does the fender &/or inner panels have to come off to do so? I can fix some of the misalignment with door shims, but what needs to happen also, is the whole door needs to lift about 3/32"- 1/8" to get the creases in the panels aligned correctly. There does not seem to be undue hinge "sag" to create this problem. Like I said I need to make it better, the obvious way would be to move the hinge brackets up a bit!
Any bodywork tin bashers out there?
About a year ago I transferred all the doors from my 90 EB to my 91. You have two adjustments.....
First, the latch itself.....one torx head screw, loosen, and move the latch in or out to adjust the tightness of closure.
To align the door to the body so that the seams are even, loosen the hex head bolts at the hinges and adjust as necessary. Be very frugal with your movement here, a little goes a long way.
Ended up removing the latch & inner handle assembly & refitting the rear lower track (The reason the window was tilting as it was lowered) which had not been fitted correctly. Quite tricky removing the lock motor arm & lock actuating bar. This bar has a hook which must face upwards although it will fit either way up , only one way will you be able to assemble the lock arm onto it! The outside handle actuating arm is attached by a split hinged bushing & is a little tricky to unhook, but does make assembly much easier. The lock arm snaps onto the lock bar with a plastic barbed hole design which just pulls apart (towards the rear of the door) to disengage. The push button bar does not need to be removed. The ground switch on the latch claw was short circuited, creating a continuous illumination of the door ajar switch while the ignition was on.
Then used a jack gently under the door while loosening the hinge bolts(6). Painted a line on the brackets so I could tell if they moved, & how much. Door now closes very sweetly with no bounce & no need to slam it....... & the door ajar warning light is not on when it shouldn't be anymore.
Had to buy new push pins (9) to refit the inner door panel. I saved the latch assembly from my old door, but I doubt if the latch switch is replacable on it's own.
Total time about 5 hrs.
Total cost= approx $8 CAD.
Glad it's done!
Aeroman.
Last edited by Aeroman59; Jun 1, 2007 at 03:55 PM.