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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

exhaust manifold overheating

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Old May 29, 2007 | 08:23 PM
  #1  
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vaughn1977
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Smile exhaust manifold overheating

I am still in the process of my 300 to 351 swap & have got it almost done, I think. the motor starts up, which is a big plus, but I dont have a oxygen sensor installed yet, because I dont have a y-pipe yet. the main problem is that when I let it idle for about 10 minutes the exhaust manifolds get really hot & turn a dull red. I thought maybe it was because of the air injection pumping too much air into the manifolds. I ve seen many 351's but mine is only one ive seen that actually has steel pipes coming out of the top of the manifolds & branch off into the bypass valve. the motor is a 94 out of a f-350 & my truck is a 90. Any way it didnt have one of the tab/tad solenoids when i got it, so I got one & put on it. but their is nowhere to plug the vacuum line into for the new solenoid, so i just capped it off. Could this & the lack of a oxygen sensor be causing this overheating of the manifolds?
any feed back would be appreciated
 
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Old May 29, 2007 | 08:32 PM
  #2  
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Linemo
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From: Mathews Virginia
check your timing i had a bronco with a 302 that did this after i replaced the distributer and found out i was a tooth off when i retimed it
 
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Old May 29, 2007 | 10:08 PM
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thanks, ill check it
 
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Old May 29, 2007 | 10:10 PM
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how do u tell if your a tooth off?
 
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Old May 29, 2007 | 10:47 PM
  #5  
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Redcat Diesel
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From: Pittsburgh,Pa.
Find the timing marks on the balancer.Turn the engine until the zero aligns with the pointer on the timing cover.Next remove the distributor cap.The rotor should be pointing toward the terminal for #1 cylinder on the cap.If the rotor is pointing in the opposite direction turn the crankshaft 1 more revolution and realign the zero with the pointer.The rotor should be very close to aligning with the terminal.If it's not even close you will have to remove the distributor holddown clamp. Lift the distributor until the rotor turns freely and realign it with the terminal.As you set the distributor back in you will see the rotor turn slightly as the distributor gear meshes with the gear on the camshaft.This takes a bit of practice to get it where you want it.Also, the distributor drives the oil pump shaft.Often you will have to pull the distributor back out and turn the shaft slightly to get it realigned.Again this takes some practice.A word of warning, if the distributor does not seat back in it's bore the oil pump shaft is the cause. DO NOT try to force it in with the holddown clamp.I've seen oil pumps broken from people trying this.Hope this helps.
 
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