Steven (enjoythetrack) that is an excellent post with great advise. The SCCA like NASA has their spec classes too which is a great place for anyone getting into racing to start.

Another really low cost way to start racing is to join local car clubs that have track or autocross days. Most clubs have a low annual dues and low rates for track days. You can use your personal car on the track and hone your driving skills. Some clubs will have track cars for rent too. Don't discount a club just because you don't have that particular make either. I use to compete in the Porsche, BMW, and Volvo car clubs with my Volvo and later my Honda. A lot of club events you just need a car that will pass a tech inspection, an approved helmet, and you passing the ride along by a club driving instructor. Very low cost.

 

A most humble thanks and agree 'spec' racing is generally a good way to contain costs and SCCA/NASA does a nice job of this in certain classifications. This is precisely why i stopped tracking the Italian car and went with the FC. Once things got 'serious,' for me the priorities were safety, ease of parts sourcing/low costs, and the ability to quickly properly fix the car if/when things arise. And if i may say, got seduced by the ability/technology of open wheel and wings n' things plus open wheel guys do not generally play bumper games during a race for obvious reasons.


100% agree! IMHO he should FIRST gets some track time during Driver Education (DE) days. Of course it depends on the type of racing he wants to do as to which DE may be most suitable/applicable for his racing desires.

Excellent in mentioning that clubs like Porsche, BMW etc will allow other marques to join their DE events provided his car passes tech and he has the correct safety gear/etc to meet their requirements.


MITCHNTX: Agree the "Spec Pinata" guys go at it, but look how inexpensive and durable those little toys are. Those ZoomZoom'ers are good, cheap learning cars and buying a decent used one are a dime a dozen per se. IMHO learning on a momentum car (Miata) with no ABS/Driver Aids is best as it teaches one the proper basics in driving.

Almost any newbie can drive a new Super Technology car with lots of HP/TQ and slicks to low lap times... yet that usually does not make for great driver education. So by removing ALL driver aids and keeping the car relatively heavy (2700lbs+) and 'slow' (under 170hp/tq) may help in making one learn how to properly drive to achieve the lowest lap times.

It is about taking a newbie and teaching them the basic skills first in a safe, controlled manner. Then hone their ability after the Red Mist fades and reality sets back in.

 

HPDE is the path I took. Lots of racers scoff at DEs, but it was an invaluable time behind the wheel. Taking the focused concentration of car control and track familiarity out of the equation allowed me to more focus on situational awareness.

I agree that Miatas are relatively cheap to buy and cheap to repair. But to be really competitive, you gotta spend $8K on a SCCA/NASA approved massaged motor ... at least in the Texas region. I'm pretty good friends with Jason Saini and use his shop's dyno to certify my CMC car.

All that said, have you noticed the price a mid 90s F-Body lately? A good running Z28 can be had for $2500. So, for $5K one could easily put a decent DE track car out there and build it as you go.

In CMC trim, a Camaro isn't far away from your example of 170/2750 hp/wt ratio. I'm limited to 230/3200 as it comes off the track ... driver, fluids, etc. Mine is closer to 3300 upon track exit.

Momentum racing is all about driver ... smooth and good chess player!

 

Such a true statement. When I use to club race people would protest my results because people could not believe a stock Volvo 740 Turbo Wagon (yes I did say wagon and yes it was stock other than tires, shocks, and springs) could beat a Porsche Turbo Carrera or any Porsche for that matter. But if the driver doesn't know how to handle the car, choose a correct line, or upsets the balance of the car on the track they are not going to have good results no matter how well the car is setup.

 

If you guys ever have the chance, take a drive at Lime Rock Park in the pouring rain. Super slick surface with only hints of traction here and there (if you know where to look for it ). Smoothness is key.