I have discovered a small leak in the heater hose that comes of the top of the water pump and splits to the rear and front heater cores.(94 AWD 4.0)

I have contacted my local Ford dealer who advised that the hose is not stocked anymore in Canada

It would appear that when I was fixing the alternator in the winter I may have nicked the hose with a screwdriver.....UUUUHHHHH

IS there anyone that can point me in the direction of where to get the hose, and or give me a fix for this issue.

 

If it where me, I would just get standard heat hose and use plastic or brass tee and elbows for the tight bends.

 

The heater hose has a crimped on end...then a pipe that goes to the waterpump. Cut the crimped part off, get a nipple (STRAIGHT PIECE OF PIPE) from a parts store and about 4 inches of the correct sized heater hose and splice it in.


Stick the nipple in the end of the hose where the crimped on end WAS, and clamp it on...then put the short piece of hose you bought on the other end of the nipple and slide it over the pipe to the pump. use screw clamps...PROBLEM SOLVED.



Those &%#@ crimped heater hoses! A MAJOR PITA since day one.

 

Do you know the inside diameter of that hose.....

 

NAPA autoparts stocks the bottom piece of that hose, i.e. the large diameter piece that attaches to the pipe up to about 6 inches past the split. That and two hose connectors will repair that.....sorry, don't have the part number.......

If you go to their website they'll have some pics.......however, some of them are not correct. When I replaced mine the counter guy let me go an look at what they had and I was able to find the correct one.

 

The usual Aerostar heater hoses are 5/8" but I don't have a parts catalog past 1989, so I cant verify the hose size.

Suggestion >> check with FTE sponsor DIRECTFORDPARTS. So many Ford dealers parts help today is useless and worthless, and only there for a paycheck. Looking up those Aerostar heater hoses in the parts catalog is a PITA...If the guy didn't look, and just said..sorry, not available..you're getting the usual brushoff.

 

Either 5/8" or 3/4". On the 3.0L, the nipple coming out of the water pump is 3/4 but it is reduced to 5/8" to match the rest of the plumbing. The 4.0L might be similar.

 

Ford makes a steel nipple that goes from 3/4 to 5/8 = C8OZ-8555-A

The 5/8 x 5/8 nipple is = C5AZ-8555-A

The 3/4 x 3/4 nipple is = D9OZ-8555-B

 

Called mu local NAPa...they advised it was 5/8" inside diameter hose coming from pump and have a kit including pipe to fix this sort of leak....

Thanks for the help.....this forum has saved me hundreds $$$$$$$

 

Anyone have the part number for this kit? I'm going to need it real soon as my van (1994 3.0) has 383,000 KM on it and still has the original heater hoses on it. One of the hoses going over the alternator has been rubbing and there's a thin spot worn in the hose. I'm sure it'll burst real soon (with my luck).

Also I had to bypass the heater core a few months ago as it's leaking again. It was replaced 2 or 3 years ago. Anyone know of a place in Canada that has a lifetime guarantee? Of couse when I was removing the hoses from the heater control valve, the plastic nipples broke off the valve so I'll need a new one of those too. At least they're cheap.

Then a short time after I bypassed the heater core one of the small hoses that go to the valve sprung a leak. This is the small moulded hose with a 90 degree bend that connects to the heater control valve with a worm clamp and has one of those (brilliant?!?) quick connect fittings on the other end. I went to the local Ford dealer where they want $40 for that small hose. They didn't have any in stock and after looking on the system, nobody in Ottawa had one either. My Ford parts guy is a car guy and just finished doing the Pro Street boogie on a fox body Mustang. So after looking at my hose, he said that it looked very similar to the bypass hose on his 5.0 Mustang. He grabs one from the shelf and it has the same shape and is only $9. So I go home, grab the dremel and cut the factory crimp of the old hose, remove the quick fitting and put in on the new hose with a worm clamp. It works. Part number for the hose is KH-243.

Thanks.

 

http://www.napaonline.com/masterpage...Hose&VehCode=Y

put a ground wire on your new heater core. electrolysis is eating up your cooling system

 

<TABLE border=0><TBODY><TR><TD></TD><TD width=100>CAUTION:</TD><TD>DO NOT GROUND HEATER CORE. IF THE HEATER CORE IS GROUNDED, YOU HAVE PROVIDED THE ELECTROLOSIS A PATH THROUGH THE HEATER CORE. THIS WOULD CAUSE THE HEATER CORE TO BECOME AN ANODE OR RECEIVER AND IT WOULD PROMOTE THE ELECTROLOSIS, OR ANY STRAY VOLTAGE TO USE THE COOLANT AS THE GROUND PATH.</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

 

there are 2 schools of thought on this.
one is Ford's latest
https://www.ford-trucks.com/tsb/full...p?tsb=06-21-19
which you posted

the other is what Ford used to do and many other manufs still do on the assembly line and for severe cases of heater core electrolysis where other attempted solutions have not worked
ground the heater core.

I went the full route on mine after replacing the original OEM factory core at 80k, not a fun job. replaced all grounds straps on vehicle with stranded #6 copper insulated wire to stop ground corrosion problems in braid straps, soldered all connections. used anti oxidation compound on frame/chassis connections. the factory OEM ground straps are small and too fine of stranded braid, breaks and corrodes off easily

added #8 copper stranded insulated ground wires to chassis on front and rear heater cores. no more problems in 6 years

always check coolant system every year for electrical acidic electrolysis level below 0.3 volts
replace coolant every 2 years with distilled water and full thermostat hose removal flush. don't use house water as final flush, chlorine turns to an acid

 

Interesting.

Has anyone ever found the cause of the initial problem? Did it lead to one particular fault? Such as an alternator or starter? I don't object to putting additional straps on the vehicle. I read somewhere, they stated, it could cause more harm than good. How is that so? Some sort of feedback or something in conjunction with improper coolant thus creating the perfect condition to turn acidic??? Feedback please...

 

Chromeblvd:

My knowledge in Chemistry isn't all that great, so all I could do is to welcome you to our FTE forum, and I hope to hear more about this.