Water Based Paints
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Water Based Paints
Hi all,
I'm starting on the Bronco's body work this summer, with hopes of spraying it this fall. This new-fangled water base enamel has piqued my interest, and wondered if anyone has used it or had any thoughts or suggestions.....?
Thanks,
TLR
I'm starting on the Bronco's body work this summer, with hopes of spraying it this fall. This new-fangled water base enamel has piqued my interest, and wondered if anyone has used it or had any thoughts or suggestions.....?
Thanks,
TLR
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From: Tucson
Hi TLR, I use water base paint every day. and I would not recomend using them on a bronco, Maby your walls and ceilings lol. If you plan to do some 4 wheeling and are not to worried orange peel, a two part water base epoxy will do a very good job. It all depends on what your looking for, an oil base product will flow out lots better than a water base. Just my 2 cents
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From: western montana
the new waterborne paints will someday be all we have and several counties in CA and almost all auto manufactorers (from what i hear) are using it or will be.
It's cleared with urethane clear so protection is there and it's supposed to be much safer to work with than the urethane paint.
I've heard you need a gun that will spray it and some of the high end guns claim to be be waterborn ready. I'd go urethane unless you really want to be special and have the $ for the stuff.
It's cleared with urethane clear so protection is there and it's supposed to be much safer to work with than the urethane paint.
I've heard you need a gun that will spray it and some of the high end guns claim to be be waterborn ready. I'd go urethane unless you really want to be special and have the $ for the stuff.
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From: Pottstown, PA
We carry AutoAir water-based paints. Here is a link to our landing page for AutoAir.
Here is a link to technical data about the product and application.
Spraying a water-based paint is different than spraying a urethane. Water-based paints are sprayed in very, very light coats. A neat aspect of the water-based paints is that there is no time window; you can apply additional coats whenever you want (as long as the underlying coat is dry).
If you do decide that you want to try water-based paints, we offer 4oz bottles that are good for graphics or trying the paint.
Here is a link to technical data about the product and application.
Spraying a water-based paint is different than spraying a urethane. Water-based paints are sprayed in very, very light coats. A neat aspect of the water-based paints is that there is no time window; you can apply additional coats whenever you want (as long as the underlying coat is dry).
If you do decide that you want to try water-based paints, we offer 4oz bottles that are good for graphics or trying the paint.
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Thanks for all the info, guys.
The water-based paint looks very interesting, and I especially like the fact there's no time window for recoating. The biggest drawback that I see is the fact that a urethane clear coat is still required. You'd think there would be a water-base clear coat available.....? Maybe the paint chemists are still working on that.....
I'm an Eastwood customer, and am familiar with the AutoAir paints. They seem to be a very good product, especially for painting graphics.
TLR
The water-based paint looks very interesting, and I especially like the fact there's no time window for recoating. The biggest drawback that I see is the fact that a urethane clear coat is still required. You'd think there would be a water-base clear coat available.....? Maybe the paint chemists are still working on that.....
I'm an Eastwood customer, and am familiar with the AutoAir paints. They seem to be a very good product, especially for painting graphics.
TLR
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The EPA isn't worried about making an entirely water based paint system for the automotive world. The main reason for coming up with water based basecoats is more for the human factor than anything else. Basecoats and single stage paints have isocyanates in them, very cancer causing and really not the healthiest things in the world for people. The problem with isocyanates is that they can get in through the skin exposure, so unless you're wearing a suit with a fresh air recovery system you as the painter are exposed. Water based basecoats take that whole issue right off the books.
Clearcoats don't contain isocyanates and aren't near as harmful as the basecoats, not to mention you couldn't have an entirely water based clear system unless you wanted your car to be black one day, and primer after a hard rain.
Clearcoats don't contain isocyanates and aren't near as harmful as the basecoats, not to mention you couldn't have an entirely water based clear system unless you wanted your car to be black one day, and primer after a hard rain.
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IndyGearhead, thanks for the info on isocyanates. I wasn't aware that some clearcoats were isocyanate-free. I know that some do contain isos.
I'd be willing to pay a little more to get an iso free system, because of the increased safety. I'm wondering now if AutoAir clear has isos....?
I'd be willing to pay a little more to get an iso free system, because of the increased safety. I'm wondering now if AutoAir clear has isos....?
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That's the claim at the moment, Sherwin Williams has been having issues with product freeze during shipping, it's something they're working on at the moment, having to deliver material in a climate controlled container.
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Speaking of Sherwin-Williams, they make a waterborne acrylic clear coat called "Sher-Clear". It's UV protective and advertised for use on water tanks, pipelines and such, so it must be pretty tough.
I know that AutoAir recommends a urethane topcoat for their colors, but I'm wondering if the Sher-Clear acrylic would work....? If so, that would give a completely isocyanate free system.
The cure time for Sher-Clear is 14 days, so it wouldn't be suitable for mass-production body shops, but for us hobbyists it might just work.
I'm thinking of experimenting with the Sher-Clear acrylic; any thoughts if it would work as well as urethane with the AutoAir colors?
I know that AutoAir recommends a urethane topcoat for their colors, but I'm wondering if the Sher-Clear acrylic would work....? If so, that would give a completely isocyanate free system.
The cure time for Sher-Clear is 14 days, so it wouldn't be suitable for mass-production body shops, but for us hobbyists it might just work.
I'm thinking of experimenting with the Sher-Clear acrylic; any thoughts if it would work as well as urethane with the AutoAir colors?
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14 days is an aweful long time for things to go wrong, settling dust, fisheye contamination among other things. I wouldn't suggest it personally. If you want to try it go right ahead, just realize you might wind up having to strip it all off it you get some bad contamination.
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The Sher-Clear actually dries in about 15 minutes, just takes about 14 days cure time before it can be sanded or buffed.
It's been used on homebuilt airplanes with good results.
I think I'll prep my Bronco tailgate and experiment with it, as a topcoat for AutoAir basecoat. Shouldn't cost too much if it dosen't work out.....
It's been used on homebuilt airplanes with good results.
I think I'll prep my Bronco tailgate and experiment with it, as a topcoat for AutoAir basecoat. Shouldn't cost too much if it dosen't work out.....
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I contacted Craig @ AutoAir yesterday, and he kindly answered lots of my questions. He said their basecoats are indeed chemically compatable with waterborne acrylic enamels, so they won't react.
He too suggested doing a test panel first, for obvious reasons. I'm going to try it on the tailgate first; if it works out, that'll be a completely ISO-free system.
He too suggested doing a test panel first, for obvious reasons. I'm going to try it on the tailgate first; if it works out, that'll be a completely ISO-free system.