Rust and rot
#1
Rust and rot
Yet another one for ya. My 90 is starting to rust up and rot around the rear wheel wells........as i'm sure everyone is familiar with. Also.....on the bottom of the qp's as well. I've called several bodyshops for estimates on replacing the panels.........and no one would give me a price..only that it cost too much than you would want to spend. Myself, i can't see spending the grand it will cost to patch everything up with bondo and repaint it........because it is only gonna come back in a short period of time. One guy was mentioning a fix with some sort of fiber glass or something.........Any ideas or info on this would be appreciated. I'm sure there has to be some experience with this problem by someone in the forum.
#3
Rust and rot
Don,
I'm in my second year of an autobody program and learned quickly the time it takes to fix rust properly. If it has not made holes in the sheet metal you can slow down the rust by painting over with POR 15 paint. This stuff is easily brushed on and adheres well to existing rusty surface. I'd remove the inner wheel wells (plastic) and get up behind the fender and lower quarter panel in front and coat it well. Prep the area by cleaning all dirt and rough up with a wire brush.
As for fiberglass, I can't speak from experience. I've seen it used unsuccessfully on occasion and I would say that is only for professionals although they sell those nice little kits in the store. Don't do it!
If someone let the rust get bad enough that it created holes or has crept onto the outer surface, then you are in trouble. There's no real shortcut to fix this, the best way to fix is to cut out the rusty wheel wells and weld in patch panels, same goes for lower quarters. Welding, filling, sanding, surfacing, priming and painting are involved each adding to the labor hours. Good luck and hopefully itsa not that bad yet.
I'm in my second year of an autobody program and learned quickly the time it takes to fix rust properly. If it has not made holes in the sheet metal you can slow down the rust by painting over with POR 15 paint. This stuff is easily brushed on and adheres well to existing rusty surface. I'd remove the inner wheel wells (plastic) and get up behind the fender and lower quarter panel in front and coat it well. Prep the area by cleaning all dirt and rough up with a wire brush.
As for fiberglass, I can't speak from experience. I've seen it used unsuccessfully on occasion and I would say that is only for professionals although they sell those nice little kits in the store. Don't do it!
If someone let the rust get bad enough that it created holes or has crept onto the outer surface, then you are in trouble. There's no real shortcut to fix this, the best way to fix is to cut out the rusty wheel wells and weld in patch panels, same goes for lower quarters. Welding, filling, sanding, surfacing, priming and painting are involved each adding to the labor hours. Good luck and hopefully itsa not that bad yet.
#4
Rust and rot
If you love your Bronco like I do, fix it. I have an 89 xlt(bought new) with 400 k on it. I've replaced a lot of it-Engine(5.0),tailgate,rear end,steering box and a few other things. I had the same problem with rust in the wheel wells 3-4 years ago. I found that if you insist that they fill the holes with plastic/fiberglass and blend in the paint it works for a couple of years depending on where you live. I had to do some more this year but the areas fixed 3 years ago were still good, the rust showed up in other areas. It helps if you can convince them to fill the insides of the wheel well lips with plastic/fiberglass so the salt/sand and snow/ice won't sit in them. Look for someone in the body work business that works on the side, they're out there. I have about $1000 in both jobs and my bronco still looks real good. Good luck and keep looking you'll find someone. But check their work to make sure it is acceptable to you.
#5
Rust and rot
Try www.autofab.com they make some awesome rear fiberglass fenders at $500 for both sides. At their web site they show you how to put them on.
The fenders are not stock appearing they are cut out on wheel opening by about three inches. but they also have front fenders to match. I was thinking about buying them myself for my 1994 bronco
The fenders are not stock appearing they are cut out on wheel opening by about three inches. but they also have front fenders to match. I was thinking about buying them myself for my 1994 bronco
#6
Rust and rot
yo Don,
I posted this once before. There are many places to buy replacement panels.
Tabco has many body panels. No www page though:
Tabco, 30500 Solon Industrial Pkwy., Cleveland, OH 44139
A sales lady there has a 78 and is very knowledgeable about each panel.
And here is Popular Mechanics www site where a dude describes how he repaired body work:
http://popularmechanics.com/popmech/auto2/9406AUMRBM.html#SOURCE
If I had time and inspiration, I would take a night course in body work at a local college or tech school; welding, filler work, etc.
6 months and you would have the basics to save on the big labor charges.
Good luck, Al
I posted this once before. There are many places to buy replacement panels.
Tabco has many body panels. No www page though:
Tabco, 30500 Solon Industrial Pkwy., Cleveland, OH 44139
A sales lady there has a 78 and is very knowledgeable about each panel.
And here is Popular Mechanics www site where a dude describes how he repaired body work:
http://popularmechanics.com/popmech/auto2/9406AUMRBM.html#SOURCE
If I had time and inspiration, I would take a night course in body work at a local college or tech school; welding, filler work, etc.
6 months and you would have the basics to save on the big labor charges.
Good luck, Al
#7
Rust and rot
If ya don't mind "hiding" the rust ro you need more room for bigger tires. Those Bushwacker cut-out flairs work nice and you can get a set of 4 for 250-300$ and they require you to cut about 2-3" out off your wheel well lip, I did this on a 82' bronco I used to have and that plus a 250$ cheapo complete tailgate made that sorta rusty bronco look like new again, and for only 500$. I also got 35x12.5x15's to fit with NO lift....
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