I was recently given an '81 Bronco automatic with a 351M engine. The thing had bent a pushrod and I suspected some valvetrain interference. The timing chain had about 10-15 degrees of play, so I figured that explained it and decided to replace the chain and the pushrod. I took everything off of the front of the engine. The problem is that in order to get to the timing chain cover, I have to remove the bolt that holds the balancer on the crank snout. The engine just spins, no matter what I do. I took out the starter to expose the torque convertor's teeth, and tried to jam a piece of wood in to block it, but to no avail. I even used a chunk of metal, but with the same result. Should I take off the oil pan and shove a rod between the crank and the block to stop it from moving? That's my only other thought at this late date. The thing has been sitting in my backyard for months and I don't want the neighbors to complain, since there are three other cars back there, and a total of nine altogether on my property. I don't care about keeping the thing because when it's fixed, it's getting sold. Any help anybody can give me will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

 

Hey sixpack, get a ratchet with a socket, if your radiator is removed it's easier. Also you want damage it. Put the ratchet on in a good position where you can hit it with a hammer. your engine will turn, but the sudden strikes with the hammer will brake the bolt loose. Keep trying, it might take a few hits but it will brake loose. Please dont try and wedge things in your engine's internal parts, that could make things worse, like brake or bend something. Why are you selling it? they are very good 4x4's. Good Luck, and keep us posted. Rob

 

The reason I am going to sell the beast is because it is one of nine vehicles that I currently own. I have four in the backyard, two in the garage and three in front of the house. I'm surprised my neighbors haven't yet complained. This truck was given to me by my mother-in-law's boyfriend. He buys a vehicle, drives it for a while and when it breaks, he buys another one, rather than trying to fix what he's got. This Bronco had the axle serviced and the brake system entirely redone before he finally gave up on it and gave it to me. He wanted to send it to the crusher. I figured if I could fix it and make a little money on it, I could put the cash back into my 340. So here we are. Some folks have told me that I shouldn't have taken it apart already and I should have taken it to a service station to have them break the bolt loose, but there would have been no way to get to it if the radiator, shroud and fan were still in the way. Ultimately, if I were into hard core four wheeling, I would probably keep it to do the really tough trails, but as it is, I want to put money into my '65 340 Dart and my kustom Coronet.
The fact that I don't have any air tools makes this all that much harder. I am in Colorado, and if any of you want it, $1,000 (nego) will make it yours. Thanks.

 

[font size="1" color="#FF0000"]LAST EDITED ON 18-Sep-00 AT 00:02 AM (EST)[/font][p]A rust free Bronco (I presume native to Colorado) would look nice in my Maine door yahd next to all the rusted out Fords littering the place. I'll even pay for the gas to get it out here. To get that pesky crank nut off: take your socket, a 15/16", as I remember on a 300-6 and 302 v8, with a breaker bar and a stout extension (pipe or something similar) and wedge against the frame (on the drivers side, I'm pretty sure) and the end of the breaker bar against the frame and the ground. Kind of at a 45+/- degree angle. Then, ever so gingerly, just touch the starter and she oughta break loose (using the starter/engine to provide the twisting force). Don't hold the key/starter for more that a second (disconnect the coil wire, first) or so or you could end up sending the whole rig all through the engine compartment. I've done this several times and it works fine. Just be sure (to err on the safe side) no one is standing nearby and maybe even close the hood or cover it otherwise.