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fridge not working

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Old May 16, 2007 | 02:39 PM
  #1  
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fridge not working

its in a 98 slumber queen camper. manufactured mar 98. the fridge is a dometic(forget the modle #) 3-way.
plugged in at home i get 120v at the plug in behind the fridge. with the switch in the elec. position i get resistance (not OL) in the cord from the fridge on my multi meter. if the cord had a break in would read open loop would it not?
i have left in on for over 15 min. and have heard and felt nothing. am i not waiting long enough?

same on 12v

on gas i can get the pilot light lit(seen through sight glass) and to stay on, but no other action

any experiences with this guys?

possibly thermostat or selector switch? mind you the gas does shut off right away when i move the selector to gas off.

for now i'm going to try to get at the switches to check there condition.

just bought it and previous owner said it sad for 3 years(undercover)

thanks
 
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Old May 16, 2007 | 03:06 PM
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https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...potential.html

First of all, did you see this?

Next, are you within 1/2 bubble of being level? If you aren't, it won't start. Yes, you want to see resistance, not an open circuit.

15 minutes may NOT be long enough...I usually wait at LEAST 2 hours to see if it starts getting cold. Mine's a '94 model. Just keeps working. Mine's two-way. Just gas/electric.
 
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Old May 16, 2007 | 03:33 PM
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Even half a bubble might be too far out of level for some - I've seen that be a problem for some I've camped with. Being a carpenter; I'm fussier about level than most. My '87 two way has been reliable as well, but like the previous poster says, they can take a while to cool.
 
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Old May 16, 2007 | 04:16 PM
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These absorbtion refrigerators work by heating liquid amonia.
If you have access to a mechanics stethescope, you can listen to the absorber coils and hear a sound similar to a coffee perculator if the 12v and 120v heaters are working when selected.

Here is a link to an explanation of how they work.
 
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Old May 16, 2007 | 04:28 PM
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according to my manufacturing plate my camper was produced one month before the recalled fridges were produced, so i should be ok there.

i'll check the level tonight. i'll also leave it on longer and check after a couple of hours. i was thinking along the lines of a normal fridge, thinking i would hear the compressor kick in right away. woops. i see they operate on ammonia absorbtion, not quite sure about that but i'm looking into it.

i got onto the TRI(trailer refrigeration inc.) website, man you can find anything on the net, and they said to plug it in and after a half hour touch the insulation pack above the burner to check to see if it is warm.
 
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Old May 16, 2007 | 04:30 PM
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Smile

ok, you beat me to it. i need to learn to type with more than one finger.
thanks for the info!
 
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Old May 16, 2007 | 04:52 PM
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thanks colarado-native, that was a good write-up. so if i understand that right no real cooling is even done inside the fridge in the first 30min. the absorbtion system itself needs to cool down before it can pull heat for the fridge. am i close?
 
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Old May 16, 2007 | 06:27 PM
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Originally Posted by durtyburd
thanks colarado-native, that was a good write-up. so if i understand that right no real cooling is even done inside the fridge in the first 30min. the absorbtion system itself needs to cool down before it can pull heat for the fridge. am i close?
Yes, it does take quite a while to notice any cooling and the best place to check is on the floor of the little freezer section. Also checking the temp of the stack in the back outside the fridge box will give you a good idea if your heating elements are working. On my fridge, the electric does shut off when the set temp is reached in the box, but gas just burns a very small flame all the time.
 
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Old May 16, 2007 | 11:09 PM
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well, FTE to the rescue once again!!

i wasn't waiting long enough. works good on 120. i will try it on gas tommorrow.

thanks again guys!!
 
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