I like my power steering...yes, I know it robs alot.As for the fan...already in the plans.Hmmmmm, aluminumdriveshaft.....added to the list heh heh.Thanks again eco.Sorry for the ranting.

 

I saw some before and after tests the other week at my local dyno with aluminum driveshafts versus steel.

Were talking about 5-10 rear wheel HP and 10-15 rear wheel torque. Not to mention a smoother ride. Not bad at all for a simple bolt on and a few hundred dololars to have one made. Oh yeah, and that is all throughout the powerband too. I already have mine being made...

 

the problem with the stang upper/lower intakes are the runners are too small. the truck one's are huge compared to them. Grab a set of both and you'll see. I swapped a stang 302 into my truck and the first thing i did was convert to a truck upper/lower.




jim

 

Oh please tell.. did you have a chance to run the motor with the mustang and truck intakes? If not.. how does it run with the truck intake on it?

 

You didn't say if the headers were longtube or shorties. The Y pipe and cats are the most restrictive part of the factory exhaust system.


No. The interal volume of the 5.0 truck intake is probably 2 to 3 times that of the 5.0 mustang.. the truck plenum is bigger and the runners are massive in comparison, longer and much bigger cross section. This is a mistake by Ford IMO, but that's another discussion. Power production is not totally about maximum airflow, it's about packing as much air into the cylinders on each stroke. Smaller runners/TB/plenum actually help this because air velocity is higher, meaning more ram effect. The Mustang motor makes more power than the truck motor throughout the whole rpm range.. how is that possible when it uses the exact same block and heads, and nearly the same camshaft as the 94+ trucks? I'l tell you how, it has higher intake air velocity, that's it.

On that vintage motor, the only external power adder worth enough to measure on a dyno is long tube headers. Electric fans and underdrive pulleys will give some tiny boost, but all combined won't add up to what a good exhaust system does. If you want more high rpm HP swap a mustang or explorer intake on it, but that will cost some low rpm torque. The next best improvements are inside the motor, starting with either 1.7 roller rockers or a cam upgrade. Those mods will get you into the 275-300hp(crank) range, but to get past that you need head work. Look at the cost of roller rockers or a cam which will give real measurable power gains, and compare it to the cost of an electric fan or throttle body, and you'll see where the bang for the buck is.

 

The headers on m truck were stock Gen 1 Lightning headers.....so you tell me.I have a set of longtubes but my frame would have interfered with the pipes going into the collector.Yea,I know the Y-pipes and cats are the most restrictive.While it ain't the tree hugger way, taking that crap off is the best thing about it.That may be true about the higher volume in the truck intake...but admit it....the path of least resistance has shorter distance,so what volumes of airflow it doesn't have it makes up for in velocity(ie shorter runners).Wow, I really didn't know that cylinder volume and compression meant so much for horsepower.....lol.And yes, I do realize that the best way to get power is to go into the internals.....but remember, I said I didn't want to beak into them just yet.I want to see how much power I can get out of it without doing so.Vintage motor, I like that...must mean your 90 is an antique huh?A tiny boost?Yea.....you ever done underdrive pulleys?I love em helped this truck out so damn much.The electric fan I can understand...That'd only be good for some power if you had an electric water pump to go with it.Yes, I realize those intakes will give me a boost...something about wanting to give my truck and engine as stock a look as possible sways me.....I'll have to talk to my buddy about gettin those GT-40 heads off his spare 5.8 lightning....maybe a port/polish and grind the valves a bit.Right now, the best bang for my buck is a littlebuck......fulltime grunt jobs have some decent pay.....just don't give me enuff to throw at something I'm working toward.

 

ran them on the dyno with both. With stang upper/lower I got 297rwhp and with truck upper/lower I got 305rwhp. Both intakes were stock and the intakes were the only changes made





Jim

 

I would venture to say the Mustang intake was designed in part with hood clearance in mind?

 

I am in full agreement here. With little experience building motors. Working over the stock heads and swapping out the cam was the best bang for my buck. Crap canning the stock exhaust helped alot, for the seat of the pants and the real dyno...the heads were the real bread winner.

Flareside--Find yourself a set of heads off a pick and pull 302 ($100) and hand them over to a machinist or a circle track nut who knows what he's doing. Unless this truck is not an everyday driver...pull em off your rig. Spend the $300-400 to have them worked over, hardened seats, bigger valves etc etc. ( or pay up the big bucks and buy a set of heads for $1000++) And you can make that 302 purr a hell of a lot more than any underdrive pulley, 56mm TB or any other bolt on you can find from a summit or jegs catalog COMBINED. I was lucky enough to build my motor with a buddy who had a dyno in his second garage oustide his shop.

He echoed the exact same sentiments of Conanski...the heads are where you will see, feel, and enjoy the potential of the 5.0 (after the exhaust choke is fixed). The one we built, we saw an increase of almost 40 rwhp from the heads alone. This was after the exhaust and cam were dyno'ed on the new block on stock heads.

For the money and time (don't forget! your time is worth money!!), listen to Conanski. The mods you speak of are mainly aesthetics. Any increase you will see will be on the upper part of the torque curve anyway. That motor needs help in low end grunt.

It worked for me. My 302 (I think its a 306 now...5.0 bored 0.030" over?) pulls and pulls. And if I'm nice to her, I can pull 18+mpg with a lift and 33" tires. With gas at $3.00/gal at the time (now its well past that!) the 5.0 was looking better than the 351w block sitting in the garage.

No need to argue about airflow and a new TB when you're running the stock heads and cam. Enough said.


My .02 cents after building a cheap 5.0.

M

 

I actually have a 5.0 sitting in a wrecked 93 bronco in the back yard.....I could do that since I have a buddy whodoes machining and has access to everything needed.However, I was looking at thumperoforangepark.com to a set of ported/polished heads and cam for around 600 bucks...I might go either way...depends on if I find something else to drop the 5.0 into before I go tearing it apart.I figured I'd start with the smaller things first...may seem like awaste of money to some but I'm just pacing myselffor now.The furthest I wanna go into this would be the cam and heads.....no boring or any of that...I know boring it would make a difference but I wanna get away with some bolt ons before I go that far.where did you get the air intake for your truck?I know that stock air inlet tube is slowing me way down......or did you convert to car syle intake?

 

I doubt the 4 or 5 cubes I picked up from machining the block made much of any difference. I just wanted to start with a clean block.

I bought a 6"OD cone style K&N with mass air meter adapter ($75). I built the enclosure from 1/8" sheet aluminum and tin snips ($20) to ensure no under the hood air was sucked in. To maximize the outside air coming in, I removed quite a large chunk of the body sheet metal around the grill and adjacent to the radiator with a hole saw and cutting wheel. Basically, I made the hole used for the 460 and 300 stock air inlets, about 3 times bigger.

 

So, whats the size differential between the manifold & TB bores? Can you see a measurable difference? Does it need to be matched?

 

No, even after installing the 56mm TB I had some room to grow on it....however, I did have to trim the stock TB gasket (duh)......Mr. M been missing your posts good to hear ya again...if you got any pics of your intake please let me know where I can see them...thanks.....

 

I believe I have some pics in my gallery of the intake I built. The aluminum cover is on, but you get the idea.

The next time I take off the cover and clean it, I will get some snap shots of the setup.

Good luck

 

Damn!!! What rpms did each intake peak at? Which motor made more torque? Graphs would be awesome...