Ok guys... I'm in the middle of replacing the manifold gaskets and cleaning the carb on my 300-6. The manifold bolts are so tight i'm affraid of twisting the heads off. I got most of them off with no problem, but there are some that are locked on.

What do you suggest? I'm thinking first thing in the morning, i soak them really good with penetrating oil and go from there.

If i do twist the heads off...then what do i need to do? They attach to the head, i really will be in trouble if i snap them off.

Second delema... I'm wanting to remove the factory A/C, it's big and bulky, i don't use it i don't even have a belt on the pulley.

What all do i need to remove? There is a bottle by the radiator, with two hoses coming from it, the A/C compressor, with two hoses coming from it.

Is there anything else that needs to be taken out? I'm planing on capping everything off and leaving it alone. Will any of this effect the heater?

Third delema...New battery, new alternator, won't start!!! I drove it to my friends house, got out for about 10 minutes jumped back in it ...dead. I suspect the alternator because it's about a year old and been sitting literally all winter. Not sure though i have an Multimeter i just don't know what to look for.

That's it for now... Let me know what you got. And thanks in advance.

 

start soaking them now with oil. PB blaster is what I always use. GOOD STUFF just keep spraying them suckers and spray somemore ..thats what i always do

 

Heat and the candle truck sometimes helps

 

Mine weren't stuck all that bad, but after I had driven the truck a little (warmed up) I sprayed PB on the bolts and it seemed to help. I've also tried tapping the heads of bolts or studs which can help, but you should be careful and place something between the hammer and the stud to avoid messing up threads. Once you do get the bolts started you should only work them about a 1/4 turn forward at a time. After that, spray a little more penetrant on it and work it back a little before going forward again. Don't go too fast though, or you will still break one off. Good luck with the other stuff.

 

if you twist them off[personal experience]about 1 and a half inch was still there,pipe wrench and a cheater bar removes them

 

Dennis means the CANDLE TRICK listed in the garage forum FAQ link in my sig.

 

I read the candle trick post, i'm going to try it. My friend will think i'm nuts. I hope it works, i love proving that bone head wrong... Wish me luck fellas, it's going to be a long day of working on the truck...can't wait.

 

Ya, I didn't mean light a candle on the workbench then go yank on the bolt with a breaker bar

 

Test battery voltage with your meter. It should be around 12-13 volts. With engine running and accessories on like highbeams, you should measure 14 volts or more.

The alternator is not at fault if only a year old. Sitting over winter will not hurt it. Unles of course you hooked it up wrong and fried some diodes?

Most people change batteries, alternators, starters, regulators and solenoids without paying any attention to the battery cables. Replace them with factory type cables, not the type with the clamps for the wire ends. Get the right length (as short as possible). You can lose a whole lot of juice at a corroded or faulty connection.

If bolt heads break off flush to the surface, you will need a drill bit and an easy out bit. They work well. Good to keep in your toolbox for future breaks.

 

Ok guys, wow what a day, good news is i didin't break off any bolt heads. I hit them with liquid wrench and used a 9/16 wrench to work them just a bit at a time. Got them all out.

Got the manifold assembly out and apart, hit it with the wire wheel down to clean metal. Painted the intake manifold FORD BLUE, and the exhaust manifold flat black, with 1200 degree enamel paint. Man does it look nice... I can't thank you guys enough for the advice.

I pulled the factory air conditioner, pretty trick actually for me, i pulled the compressor and capped off the lines on both ends, i just left the condenser and stuff capped but still in tact. Looks great i can finally see everything and don't have to work around the A/C.

Still not sure on the alternator/ battery deal, frankly i didn't get time. I did get the battery charged at autozone, and replaced the vacuum lines, no squealing anymore. Fired up on the first crank and ran it for a bit.

The only problem i have now is the exhaust pipe interface with the manifold. The old donut was shot so i cut it out and replaced it, i couldn't get the pipe tight on the manifold, it's about 1/4" shy of being right.

Any suggestions? I thought maybe i'd heat it up, by running the motor, and then try to crank on the nuts a bit. It didn't work at all. I'll have to get some pictures around soon, i have before and after. Mext week is carb week for the truck.

Let em know what you think on the exhaust pipe, and thanks again.