AGAIN with the 223 carb float: Last I posted, the opinion(s) were that my full float glass (and submerged float) were not a problem if it was running correctly.

Well, it still starts and runs fine, but after staring at it, my experience and brains tell me something's wrong, and I don't want to get stuck on the road with a flooded carb or engine fire because I didn't fix it.

Can anyone with a similar engine/carb tell me where their fuel level in the glass is while idling?

Can anyone tell me the correct float level height?

Does anybody know where I can get a rebuild kit? I haven't been able to locate one from any old Ford supplier.

Last, if I DO discover a hole in my brass float, any problems with just soldering it closed?

Thanks!

 

Either one of these Ford carb kits are correct: (the kits are obsolete from Ford)

C2AZ-9A586-C or C2AZ-9A586-D .. Carb Kit

C2AZ-9550-A .. Float

FTE sponsor GREEN SALES has both kits and the float in stock.

800-543-4959

Green Sales is one of the worlds largest and oldest Ford Obsolete Parts Dealers. They are located in Cincinnati, Ohio.

 

Thanks, ND, I just should have asked you first!

 

It's a good idea to post here, other members can benefit too.

 

I have my level set when the truck is idling the fuel bowl is 7/8th full. I have a problem sometimes of the carb flooding during starting.....seems after several new needles and seats it still does it.
I found by having the float set slightly lower than my first settings helps to prevent flooding.
I just kept setting it lower and lower until i found a fuel level that works.

 

LMC Truck.

 

Laynrubber:

Yours is the kind of info I'm looking for. Do you know if the 7/8 full condition is the proper level? At that fuel level, is the float mostly submerged?

Mine is also at least 7/8 full, it just looks WAY too full.

 

brider,

Sorry to take so long to reply; it took me a while to get this information together.

I checked the shop manual and the instruction sheet from my last rebuild kit. Here is a scan from the instruction sheet (NAPA/Echlin Form No. 16-H-13):



The initial set of the float level is done by putting the carb upside down and checking the gap between the top of the float and the top of the body, as shown in figure 1. The gap should be 13/64”. The kit includes a cardboard gauge for checking the gap. This is all I've ever done when rebuilding one of these carbs.

With the carb installed, check the float level by removing the power valve and checking the level. The shop manual calls for tool T52L-9550-AEE, which is a gage with two pins that show the low and high level (good luck finding one of those). The rebuild instruction sheet is more helpful. It calls for the fuel level to be 11/16” below the top of the case, plus or minus 1/32”. (See Figure 2, above.) This will fill the bowl 65% full, so it sounds like your level is too high. Looking through the glass bowl, the float level is correct when it is at the bottom of the 1/8” diameter hole in the vertical cylinder, to the left of the float. This cylinder is part of the casting that houses the float needle and is connected to the fuel line on the passenger’s side of the carb.

The shop manual shows a cute little tool kit for adjusting the float level, tool T52L-9559-AGE. It consists of an open-topped float bowl and a bending tool that can reach down the left side of the float to allow bending of the float to adjust the level while the engine is running. The bending tool apparently consists of a rod with a slot in the side that engages the tab on the top of the float. The tool holds the tab and the float is pushed up or down to bend the tab and adjust the level. I’m going to cut the top off an old float bowl and make one of the bending tools next time I rebuild a carb.



I pulled apart a couple of old carbs that I have laying around and found that the “high water” mark on the floats shows that they ride about 75% submerged. This agrees with the level listed above.

My carb kit is NAPA/Echlin 2-5195. This appears to now be NAPA number MPF3252C. http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPage...Carburetor+Kit

Autozone part number for the rebuild kit is 96-115C. $23.99. Can be ordered online at www.autozone.com

If your float is leaking, it will be obvious when you take it out. I doubt your float is leaking. I had the same symptom with my glass bowl carb and the float was fine. I wasn't able to get the level set properly and wound up replacing the carb for other reasons.

I don't know of any reason you couldn't solder up a hole in the float. Brazing might be a better choice. Obviously, make sure it not full of gas or gas fumes before you put a torch to it. I've never had occasion to try to repair a leaky float, but I would put a second hole in it, rinse it several times by filling it completely with distilled water, dry it in the sun, then blow it out with a canned air like "Dust Off" before I started brazing. Hopefully someone with some actual experience will chime in.

Cal

 

Thanks for the info, Cal401, I'm going to use it to ballpark my fuel level, and I'l also order a rebuild kit (new needle and seat can't hurt). ND turned me on to a float part #, so IF my float is shot, I'll replace it rather than risk a small explolsion in the garage (my wife HATES that!).

 

Brider, I don't know if the 7/8 full is good i just keep setting it lower and lower till it ran poorly and then backed up. The float is mostly submerged when running.