I recently had to charnge my EGR valve, because the check engine was getting on my nerves. Anyway, I changed it and the code was gone. Two days later my check engine came back on. I cleared my code. And damn thing came back on. I took off the EGR and returned it for another one. Same thing happened code cleared, a day later it came back on. Anybody else have this problem?? Any ideas as to what is goin??

 

What year is your Escape???

You probably have a defective sensor which I have written about before for the 2001 models.

 

It's a 2001.

 

Your DPFE sensor is your most likely culprit. This sensor should be a plastic sensor mounted high and to the rear of the intake manifold (I assume you have the 3.0L V6 engine) next to the EGR valve. The sensor has a three-wire connector and two small vacuum hoses to it that plug into the exhaust tube that feeds exhaust gas to the EGR valve.

Try the testing listed below. This is for the 2001 Escape.

The DPFE sensor has three wires.

One wire should be 5 volts. This powers up the sensor.

One sensor is zero volts. This is the sensor ground.

One wire is 1 volt. This wire is the signal return wire. The signal return wire must be 1 volt with the ignition key on and the engine off. A bad sensor usually shows 0.5v (1/2 volt) or less or 3 volts or more when it fails.

The above voltages are checked with the sensor electrical connector plugged in and the wires are back probed with the Red lead of a digital volt meter. The Black lead of the voltmeter will be connected to ground or the negative battery terminal and not be moved during the above checks.

2001 model year sensor wire colors are:

Brown/White wire is the 5 volt wire

Brown/Light Green wire is the ground wire

Orange wire is the signal return wire which should be 1 volt key on engine off

Hope this helps.

 

Thanx, I'll try that out as soon as I get off of work.

 

I hate when people don't follow up. Did that fix your problem?

 

I got my codes checked and i too have the same problem. It says the egr flow insufficient.

Is this a easy fix?

 

very easy fix. Takes longer at the parts store than to actually put it in your truck. Just follow the above directions, I did and it was great.

 

what about 2002?

 

Follow the man's instructions!

 

ERG sensor! Did 2 this week, a 1999 Sable and 2004 escape and takes 5 minutes, 2 screws, 2 hoses and 1 plug!

 

Can you post a link to your write up on this? Also, how much was the EGR sensor?

 

I have A 2002 Escape, and I was trying to change the EGR Valve. I can't get the stinkin' thing off! It seriously looks like a 10 minute job, and after fighting with it for 30 mins, I give up! Maybe I am doing something wrong? I am stuck trying to get the valve off the hose. Am I supposed to take the whole hose off, and then the valve? The nut is so tight, and I am using a wrench and banging it with a hammer to try and loosen it. Is it reverse-thread? Stupid Fords, gotta take the damn intake manifolds off to change spark plugs, bad enough, but I can't even do this? Jeez!
Anyways, can someone help me BEFORE my wife leaves me for a real mechanic?

Thanks

duggy

 

I'm assuming you are asking how to remove the steel exhaust pipe that connects the EGR valve to the rear cylinder head exhaust manifold.

The first time I attempted to undue the tube at the EGR valve I soaked it with rust penetrant and let it sit for about 1/2 hour. I soaked both the threads and the pipe where the big nut spins.

If you want to remove the the complete tube, or to spin the tube away from the valve then I would soak the nut that screws into the exhaust manifold too.

It may just be easier to remove the nut at the valve then remove the upper intake collector (part that must be removed to gain access to rear spark plugs).

The nut at the valve is righty tighty, lefty loosey.

 

I went to my favorite mechanic to see if he could loosen it. By the time I got there, the combination of heat and penetrating oil (NOT WD40!) made it easy.
Unfortunately (as always, something goes screwy) I stripped one of the bolts trying to reinstall, so I might need to tap a new one. Crap.
Yes, it was the nut at the valve. I just needed a skinnier wrench. Right tool for the right job!
Thanks. now the next question. Does the engine light reset itself, or do I have to pay ANOTHER $30 to get that done