start up and acceleration

Notice the small hole circled in red.
Clean the CDR nice and clean.
Blow in the small hole with your mouth, gotta build a bit of pressure.
If you put your finger in the hole that mounts against the back of the intake you should be able to feel the diaphram move closer to your finger.
If it does not move, either there is still to much crud in the CDR or you can blow straight through it and can not build pressure.
The second option would mean the diaphram is ruptured.
Also when you clean the CDR, you must inspect the small hole to make sure it is open.
mijale,
There is nothing under the air cleaner that should be moving on a NA motor.
The first moving part you get to going through the air cleaner is the intake valves.
all electrical checks out as i said, except, the connector wires to the gps. the test light barely lights up at this point.
additionally, i wondered about the engine starving for fuel. so, with truck plugged in and primed, it fires right up. likewise, having turned the truck off even for a couple minutes, its a little slow. an hour or more, and i have to prime the thing.
i get mucho amounts of white smoke at this time, until ive driven a few miles.
fuel consumption has gone from 17.5 to 14.5 in the week since this started.
took it in yesterday. i am under the suspicion that it is a dual nature problem. gps not getting enough current, and something up with the fuel distribution (i.e. air getting in as has been suggested, the mechanic wondered about the fuel pump timing, or gremlins)
is there a book that i can get my hands on that focuses specifically on these engines?
i am still lost in the parts lingo, whats what and where.
I have know idea where the CDR is, or what it does. I need to learn the basics at least for the maintenance.
thanks again
m
Called a PVC valve on a gasser
The CDR is bolted to the rear of the intake throat with 2 bolts and the draft tube goes through a grommet in the valley pan.
The more you say about the starting I think you have air intrusion into the injection system causing fuel to drain back to the tanks.
Almost no voltage at the glow plugs could be a wire connection, the relay or the batteries are starting to get weak.
Haynes Diesel Engine Repair Manual #10330 is a handy book.
It can show you where everything is and what it is called.
As with all books there is a few things that are listed that is not the best way to do something. IP removal is one.
It does list torque specs for the bolts, clearances and other good info.
Not very expensive and carried at most parts stores like Advance or Autozone.
The down side is it has several engines in it, and it is not organized like it should be in my opinion.
But we all know about opinions.
The mechanic tested the relay with a voltage meter, not the test light, which i figured to be inadequate. he says the 12v supposed to be going out is not present and the connectors are getting no juice to the gps.
He says that 4 of my gps are burned out. What is the best way to test these guys? my test light, simple 12v of current, says they are all okay.
i like to know why and how. drove dad crazy as a kid, still does. why and how does the relay burn-out? the gps? what comes first, relay or gps? does one affect the other?
the plan is to get this sorted out, then check for the air intrusion.
appreciated
m
How often, i wonder, does this all need to be checked for maintenance purposes.
i bought the truck in february, and the previous owner had 'recently' replaced the glow plugs. my current summation is that the relay was going bad already, starting troubles were beginning, maybe burned out older gps, he replaced the plugs, and the bad relay burned the others out.
the mechanic is using a 'power probe 3' tester. i like it and seems a worthy investment.
still, will be checking for air intrusion after this all goes in. from what i've gathered, could be another factor.
thanks
m
This failure can be detected by a test light.
Sometimes they short to the case, which a test light would say was OK.
But in reality that could do damage to the relay or the fusible links in the glow plug harness.
When I test mine if I am in a hurry I use a test light.
For optimum performance though a digital multimeter is more accurate.
Resistance between .75 and 1.5 ohms each at 70 degrees is good.
I am still using my stock glow plug relay, it has 22 years and well over 300K miles on it.
picked up the truck today. starts very well.
mechanic checked the timing on the fuel distribution. checks out 'on time'
when i bought the truck, the seller said he had recently replaced gps. i have no exact idea what had been going on before hand, and what was needed. so i am starting from scratch.
i will have to guess that the gps shorted to the case as you said. all tested with the 'quick test' yet not with the digital.
appreciated.
m
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