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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

Needing Help with ignition problem

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Old May 3, 2007 | 04:01 PM
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bryanky63's Avatar
bryanky63
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Needing Help with ignition problem

My 1995 Ford F150 has been giving me fits lately It has something to do with the ignition. The ignition lock cylinder has been loose for quite some time. Well, the other day I went to start it and it was really hard to turn. It started and when I got home I went to shut off the engine and it wouldn't shut off. The cylinder just turns freely. I had to pull the coil wire to get it shut off. I got a new ignition lock cylinder and replaced the old one following closely the instructions and it will start but still will not shut off. Someone said it is probably the actuator rod that goes from the cylinder to the ignition switch down the column. I am not very mechanically inclined. How hard a job is this? How hard is it to get the column cover off? Please help!
thanks,
Bryan
 
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Old May 3, 2007 | 09:03 PM
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88 f150
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Its a pain in the *** to replace. If not mechanically inclined get a buddy that is or bring it to a dealer. I copied this from an earlier post. That part is called the Actuator. Here's my type-up from when I did mine about a month ago:

Steps for Replacing Steering Column Actuator

1) Remove steering wheel.
2) Remove the turn signal lever.
3) Remove two-piece plastic column cover that hides column where it meets dash.
4) Drop column down and remove ignition switch. Put column back up but do not tighten bolts.
5) Remove ignition lock cylinder.
6) Remove lock cylinder gear (snap ring pliers required). It is down in the hole that you took the lock cylinder out of.
7) Disconnect turn signal switch harness and then pull turn signal switch out and let it hang by wires.
8) Remove ignition lock cylinder collar (slide it over the turn signal switch).
9) Press actuator and rod towards dash so you can remove the actuator gear (the thing with the gear teeth on it that is linked to the actuator and rod).
10) Remove the snap ring on steering shaft.
11) Remove the little round metal bar (multiple bends in it) and two clips that operates the tilt. PAY ATTENTION HERE - there is a little spring like out of pen that is behind it with a metal cap on it. Remove that so you don’t lose it.
12) Drive the pin out of the tilt lock lever on the underside of the column. There is a spring underneath it with a plastic pad so pull those out too so you don’t lose them.
13) Thread a bolt or screw into the inside threaded pins that hold the tilt together and pull them out. You should put the tilt all the way up before you do this so you unload the spring.
14) Slide the tilt collar towards you on the shaft enough to get the actuator and rod out.
15) Pull the actuator and rod out. Put in vise and drive the little pin out to separate rod and actuator. Reassemble with new actuator. TIP – use a pair of pliers to press the pin back in so you don’t have to hit on it with a hammer.
16) Put a light coat of grease on the slides where the actuator goes and put the assembled actuator and rod back into column.
17) Put a light coat of grease on the swivel where the tilt collar goes and press the pins back in. TIP – You will be fighting the spring to do this so it helps to stick a screw in one side to hold it in place, then line up the other side and put a pin in. Once you have the pin in on one side, replace the screw on the first side with the other pin.
18) Reassemble starting with step #12 and go in reverse. TIP – Put a light coating of grease in the lock cylinder collar where the actuator gear and cylinder gear go.

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