I bought this dual quad manifold and have some questions about it. What cars did it come on? What engines with what upgrades? what kind of HP and torque did these engines produce? What carbs and linkages came on these manifolds and what works well?
This maniold has a crack between the dist. holddown bolt hole and the hole for the dist., any advice in fixing this crack without deminishing the value any more than nessary?
Any other info or comments are welcome. Thanks

 

That is a dual plane medium riser intake and came stock on the 67 GT500 Shelby. It's quite valueable and one of the best factory stock intakes. Originally came with the C3AF-9510- BJ/BK carbs. The intake should be a 9425 number not a 5425. Both 9425 and 9424 were on most factory intakes. I say most as there are some early intakes with no casting number. Personally I'd sell it like it is and not fix the crack. Unless you know a competent shop that can fix it. Aluminum is pretty forgiving. Factory rating was like 340-360 hp depending on the publication. That's pretty close also I'd think.

G.

 

Thanks for the correction and info. I'm going to try to find a set of those carbs and try the set-up on my car.

 

Same intake was used on the 67 427 Fairlanes. Also available new thru the Ford Dealers parts departments, which is where most were sourced. Thee crack can be welded. You can also use dual Holley list 1850 carbs or the smaller 450 cfm 4 bbls. The 450's are meant for dual 4 applications. The BJ/BK carbs will run you $1000 for both. If you know how to tune a Holley, the 450 or 1850 600's are a better bet. I ran dual 1850 600's on my 427.

 

Thanks for the tip. I've got a '65 Galaxie with a '63 390 w/mid cam and big valve heads, I'm not sure now if the heads have big ports. I'm sure this is a mild engine for the dual quad set-up so less CFM would be good. I found the BJ/BK carbs new for $1000 but nothing used yet, what CFM are they anyway. Any Idea what the compression would have been for the "63 390, it came out of a Fairlane? The engine was rebuilt with the standard bore and stock pistons, I'm installing the heads from another rig. Unfortunately I don't have any of the cast numbers with me for the block or heads.

 

No 390's were ever in the Fairlanes prior to 1966, so you either have a 1966 or later 390 or a 390 is out of a full sized Ford if it is an earlier engine. There were 427's in the 1964 and 1965 Fairlanes, no 390's.

 

Those intakes alone are selling for close to $1500 if original. Shelby and R code CJ prices are thru the roof. With your typical 67 GT500 at over $200K $1500 for an intake is a small price to pay and just part of the process. The crack when fixed right will be hardly noticed. As long as it has not been milled to death, port matched or stripped bolt holes it'll fetch the big bucks. For $1850 you can buy a complete setup with a Blue Thunder 2x4 MR intake, re issued BJ/BK Holleys and linkage from Carls Ford Parts. Others sell these also but Carl was the guy who got Holley to re issue the original carbs. He's sells other sets also not just the BJ/BK. Perosnally I'd test the waters on ebay with a high reserve. This will tell you what the world is willing to pay. Unless you really want the look and bragging rights of the original intake. Which I can understand completely. Either way a very nice intake.

PS...I could be wrong but I think there are date codes on those. I'd check to see if there is. That would also maybe let you know if it's from a production car or over the counter. Also look for "Buddy Bar" or "Sheffield" somewhere. Sheffield aluminum foundry in Alabama was part of Fords foundry div. Buddy Bar was a aluminum foundry in SoCal that cast intakes for all different makes. Did lots of valve covers, intakes for Shelby's cars and aftermarket line of over the counter parts. I remember you could buy Shelby parts from Sears at one time! Buddy Bar today still exsists and casts the LCA's for the new Ford GTs. Sorry to ramble on....

G.

 

Me personally, I'd stay away from used 40 year old carbs. Nothing but trouble there. There were two basic compression ratios for 390 car engines in the 60's. Either 9.5 or 10.5 to 1. If it's got flat topped pistons, it's the higher of the two. Your intake is also available new from Blue Thunder, so if you can sell that one for $1500, don't think twice about it, sell it and buy a new one, then apply the profit towards new carbs. A couple years ago I was in the market for a 3x2 setup for a small block. I got one offer to buy a complete original setup for "only" $2100 I politely refused that, as I could have bought a new repop setup for $1300. I ended up with a one year old repop setup for $1100.

 

Hmmm, either I got my wires crossed or one of the guys I talked to about the engine has. Thanks for the heads up. I'll have to check the numbers when I get home. Where and what do I look or on the block? As I remember I looked for a date code but couldn't find anything that made sence.

 

Date code on FE's is behind the oil filter adapter. Head casting numbers are between the two center spark plugs. Date code is in the valve cover valley, next to the cover rail. Date code is a number/letter/number(s) combination. First number is the year of the decade(decade is determined by the casting number prefix), the letter is the month code (starts with "A" for January thru "M" for December, skipped the letter "I") last number or numbers is the day of the month it was cast.

 

Thanks, I'll have to take a look for the numbers and get back here. Can anyone tell me what the block-off plate on the back side of this manifold is for? Do I want manual choke?
Vaccume or mechanical Seconaries? Progressive linkage?

 

The block off behind the carbs was for a road draft tube originally, later it was used for the PCV till that was moved to the valve covers. There's at least one company that makes a nice polished aluminum breather tube that bolts onto the flange. I had one on the 428PI intake on my 68 Merc. I don't recall who made or who i bought it from though. You'll want vacuum secondaries, and forget the choke, you won't need one with two carbs. I used a straight linkage on the twin 600's on my 427, the factory linkage was a progressive that opened the rear (I think) carb first. With the two carbs and vacuum you'll also want to link the vacuum pods together.