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I do have one. I thought about that. However, how would I know if it was bad, and if I have this thumping continuously even coasting in nuetral could it still be that?
If you have a good place and a good set of jack stands just block the front tires, put jack stands under the rear and have another person set in the cab and take it up to speed. If it is from the engine back you should find the problem.
Warn the person in the cab "do not put it in park until the speedometer points to zero".
If you have a good place and a good set of jack stands just block the front tires, put jack stands under the rear and have another person set in the cab and take it up to speed. If it is from the engine back you should find the problem.
Warn the person in the cab "do not put it in park until the speedometer points to zero".
I work on that also.
Thanks for the advise. I'll post back with results.
Update. drove the vehicle around the block a few times, back and forth down the street etc. It does not seem like it is a bad tire or rim. There is a noise. Not just a thumping vibration. Went into some corners hard to see if it would stop and when turning to the right the sound kind of went away while in the turn. Still there about as much when turning to the left. Keep in mind I was taking the turns pretty hard and fast, not just turning the wheel. That leads me to think bearings but the sound/vib seems to be coming from the rear. I got out and let someone else move the truck back and forth while I walked next to it. Can only hear it very slightly from there.
I am hoping the rear end isn't bad, but I don't think so. I have had that on an explorer and it was different. That seemed to whine and vibrate. This is totally different. It's like if something was out of round, except it doesn't seem to roll like if you had a flat spot.
Like I said, it's not like a vibration. More like a thumping or grinding.
I think you need to pull the driveshaft down and check it by hand. I've seen a few u-joints that were solid when mounted on the vehicle. As soon as you pulled the caps off, all the dry needles and rust come pouring out. Check those u-joints.
I think you need to pull the driveshaft down and check it by hand. I've seen a few u-joints that were solid when mounted on the vehicle. As soon as you pulled the caps off, all the dry needles and rust come pouring out. Check those u-joints.
I may have to try that. Would the u joints do that even when coasting in neutral? I feel the same thing in drive, in nuetral, with or without the brakes on.
I put the rear up on jackstands last night. Put it in gear and cked for the noise. While the wheels were spinning in drive I really didn't feel too much in the vehicle. There was one possible odd thing:
When you begin to let go of the brakes(but not all the way), the passenger side tire would start spinning first and the drivers would still not release. As that was happening the drivers side would kind of shutter like it was still biting. Then the further you released the drivers side would finally start spinning and they would spin as normal. Now that may be normal b/c of the type of rearend and that one side is just grabbing faster. I'm just reaching for answers.
I looked at the driveshaft while spinning and didn't see anything wrong but who knows. I stood next to both rear wheels and didn't hear anything. I'm pretty sure the sound is coming from the rear somewhere but I can't be sure yet.
In addtion, the tie rod end boot on the passenger side is bad also. How to I ck to see how bad the tie rod end is? I know I have to replace it but I just was curious how I can ck it. I don't think so though, b/c the thumping is constant, not erractic like a vibration from something loose.
Again, it starts as soon as I start moving and at any speed.(haven't gone over 30mph though b/c I'm afraid of what is wrong).
I think you have a bad axle bearing
when no weight on the rear wheels no noise
when loaded noise and vibration
only change is loading the axle bearing
I think you may be right but I hope not.(at least I know what to fix if it is) I did notice some sort of oily residue in the passenger side wheel well..I thought maybe something was leaking from in the bed of the truck but I don't see anything. didn't really see anything on the brake drum but I guess I should look closer. What is involved with replacing that and how can I tell if that is bad?
Anyone know how to check to see if the rear axle bearing is bad and what is involved in replacing it?
Thanks again
Replacing:
If it is an 8.8 then remove the cover by putting a pan under it and removing all but two upper bolts, just loosen then until the oil stops running out then take them out.
Then remove the lock bolt and push the Differential Pinion Shaft out.
Push in on the axle and remove the "C" clip but not the "O" ring.
Pull the axle out.
You can drive the bearings out with a hammer and a 6ft long 1 inch OD piece of round stock (the way I do it) or use a puller made for pulling the bearings out.
Thanks alot. Looks like I shouldn't need any special tools other than possibly a puller for the bearings(unless I do it your way which I will try). I'm going to check on parts today to find out how much.
Tonight I'm going to try swapping tires around to make sure I don't have a bad rim or tire and if not then jack it up and start on the bearing I think.
I will definetly post back for all as I move along to let everyone know the solution(when I finally get one!)
I think you have a bad axle bearing
when no weight on the rear wheels no noise
when loaded noise and vibration
only change is loading the axle bearing
Think you are dead on. Pulled passenger side rear tire off and the drum basically just fell off. Grabbed hold of the axle and it moved around in there pretty bad. Like putting a nickel in a hole the size of a quarter. So looks like the bearing is toast. Checked drivers side and no play so probably ok there.
Now, question is, what possible other damage could have been done and what should I look for? I'm going to try to get to pulling the axle tonight. I'm hoping it doen't turn into a major problem.
Second question, will I just need at rear axle bearing and seal? Just from advance auto or auto zone?
You need to pull the axle out before you buy anything.
You may need to buy a repair bearing for it if the axle is bad as a new bearing would just ride in the same spot.
Make sure you clean the axle tubes and center carrier housing of all the metal bits and wipe off the VSS sensor while you are in there.
You need to pull the axle out before you buy anything.
You may need to buy a repair bearing for it if the axle is bad as a new bearing would just ride in the same spot.
Make sure you clean the axle tubes and center carrier housing of all the metal bits and wipe off the VSS sensor while you are in there.
I called autozone, they have the axle bearing kit.. they told me that would be the way to go by what I told them. Per their web site it states it allows the seal and bearing to ride on un worn axle path. How does it install and what is different about it?
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