Hi, I'm fairly new in here. I've got a 1988 Ford F150 4X4, 4.9....inline 6. The ECU went out in it and I'm in need of help finding one ASAP in order to get it running. If anyone knows of where I can get one ASAP, please let me know. My truck is at a shop and has been there for a week now with one problem leading to another. Hopefully when I get the ECU for it, it'll be runnin good. Thanks ahead of time for your help......I greatly appreciate it. If there's anyone around the Corona CA area that works on vehicles, cheap, that'll help too. I'm thinkin' that PepBoys is stickin' it to me.
Jackie
1988 Ford F150 4X4

 

Do you have the Ford engineering number off the ECU?

Why can't Pep Boys find one?

 

Are you certain that the ECU will fix the problem? It kinda sounds like Pep Boys is just throwing parts at it till it works....wich not only isnt the best way to do things but is also really expensive. What is the truck doing...just not running right? Theres a ton a things that could be the root cause of the problem that Pep Boys will never pick up on....they're all about finding the most exoensive fix for things...not whats acutally wrong.
Give us a little more info on how the truck is behaving and what its done...also...what have they done to it so far?
-Chris

 

Does anyone wonder why ppl ask for help, and when information is asked of them, they sign off without comment?

Puzzling.

 

ok, the part number for the ECU is "E8TF12A650AA2B". As far as how the trucks been running. Actually, it hasn't been running for some time now. When it was running, I'd have trouble getting it started. It acted as if the battery was dead/dying. It would hesitate when cranking...like the starter was dragging too. Then it would crank just enough to get started. So, I replaced the starter and put a new battery in it. I was still having problems and was told that the solenoid needed replacing, which I did. It cranked good....started, and then after I drove it and then got back in and tried to start it......it acted as if the battery was dead. Everytime I'd go somewhere and get back in and try to start it it wouldn't. At first I could jump it and it would start....then it got to the point I couldn't even jump start it. I had even had to alternator checked and was told that it was good. Finally, I got to the point after replacing the plugs, distributor cap and rotar besides the starter, battery and starter solenoid, had it towed to Pep Boys as I can't work on it here in my complex. And, physically since I've been injured I can't work on it either. So, they did a diagnostic on it...replaced the alternator. I went and paid for it...got in the truck and tried to start it and it wouldn't. They kept it...checked it out, told me two days later that the alternator was bad...the serpentine belt needed to be replaced as well as the ingnition module and the top radiator hose was leaking too. After all that was done, they called me and said that the ECU is bad and that once that's replaced, the truck will start. So, that's where it's at now...still sitting there and I'm trying to find the ECU as the only one they can get is $270 plus $55 to put it in. I just talked to a guy at Direct Auto and if I can go and get mine, send it in to them, they can rebuild it for $99...it'll take a few days since I've got to send it to them, 1-2 days to rebuild then shipping it back to me, then back to Pep Boys for them to install. The place is in Stanton but I have to idea of how close it is to me here in Corona. Anyhow......I appreciate any and all help....and to NumberDummy, sorry for asking for help and then signing off....it was late and since I'm in pain constantly, I had to take my pain meds and try to get some sleep. Again, thanks to everyone for your time and your help!!! It's GREATLY Appreciated!!!

 

Well,
If it cranks slowly it could be an issue with timing ie timing chain jumped a tooth.....how many miles are on the truck? The alternator being bad is probably correct as far *** the charging system goes....but also look into the possibility of the voltage regualtor being bad...this will give the same symptoms as the bad alternator...heck even a bad ground will casue it as well.

Starting trouble could also be an issue with the NSS or Neutral Safety Switch.

Still sounds like they're throwing parts at it so see what sticks....have you asked about what its been doing in the 87-96 forum? Im sure that theres been at least one other person with a similar problem that has found out what the cause is.

The guys at Pep Boys try....but honestly...they just arent qualified to work on repairs such as these...their diagnostic tools are generic at best and their techs are trained on knowing a little bit about a lot of things.....dont get me wrong.....Im not saying Im better than any of them or that they aren't good mechanics....its just that they are like any other business and are there to make a profit.

Long Story short.....I would ask around in the 87-96 forum and see what they have to say before plunking down any more money chasing a problem...if you do it that way...you'll end up solving it just because you've rebuilt the whole thing haha.
-Chris

 

Pep Boys is a R&R outfit...that means "remove and replace" till the problem goes away. Meanwhile your money is going away, too. Pep Boys mechanics are bottom feeders, either newbies with ZERO experience, or ppl that aren't much good. You need to find a independent garage with the correct BAR machine used for diagnostics. Stay far away from these chain store repair shops. Personally I'd ask for some of my money back, then tow it oughtta there to a place that can fix it once, and fix it right!

 

Love the add ins there Bill....agreed...they do need a good local shop....I know of a great one out here in Riverside but I dont know if they'll be able to get the truck out this way....Porter's Courtesy Corner off Magnolia....just before Arlington....great shop...they even were honest enough to tell my mom that she could either keep bringing her car back to them to get fixed...or she could save herself the money and buy a new car lol...not many shops will do that...theyd rather just see the return business as things break.

Anyway...let us know how it goes!
-Chris

 

I wanted to update what's happenin' with my truck. I took the ECU in to be rebuilt and they told me that there's nothing wrong with it. I told them what has been happening with the truck so they bench tested it again making sure that the solder connections were all good and not cracked...just basically going over it with a finetooth comb. Still it tested good and they said that it doesn't need to be rebuilt. So, here I am without a clue as to why it won't start. At this point in time here's what's been replaced. Battery, starter, starter solenoid, alternator, serpentine belt, top radiator hose, ignition module. They told me that the time is *righton*, they found that out when they changed the alternator and they had the truck running so......any ideas. I think someone said to check the voltage regulator. Any other suggestions for me? 1988 Ford F150 4X4 4.9 inline6. Thanks again for everyones help. If there's anyone around the Corona CA area that could help....let me know.
Jackie

 

Ok....
You'll want to look toward the Neutral safety switch next....if that isnt working properly it will keep the truck from starting.

A simple way is to move the shift lever up and down if its auto while trying to crank it.

If its a stick its a little trickier....as the NSS is a different type....not sure on the 80's trucks...my guess is its in association w/ the clutch.

If you've checked or replaced everything else ckeck and or replace the NSS ( Neutral Safety Switch)
-Chris

 

Is it just not starting whatsoever, or is it draining the battery to the point where it won't crank?
I've been going through hell with my electrical system, and I really recommend you do a post in the electrical forum. Franklin2, danlee & grego are helping me through my problems, and could probably get yours figured out pretty fast.

 

Well, I picked up the ECU, which they told me was good and took it back to Pepboys. I told them that it was suggested that the voltage regulator be checked as well as the neutral safety switch. He told me that they both had been check and that they tested good and that everything pointed to the ECU. They're putting the ECU back in and now I have to idea as to what they're going to do. I was told that there's a place in Riverside off of the 91 at Magnolia?? Is that right....can you tell me exactly where it is. I'd have to have it towed since it's not starting and my AAA is only 7 miles distance for free.
As far as the starting problem, it cranks but won't start. Prior to them changing out the alternator it was draining the battery when cranking. I'm guessin' that perhaps I need to sell it to someone that has the knowledge and ability to get it running. I love that truck. It's lifted and I've put so much in to it now...new tires, battery...starter, solenoid, alternator, ignition module, and the other minor stuff, radiator hose, wiper blades. Anyhow....that's where things are at at this point. Help is gratefully accepted and needed. Thanks to everyone for the suggestions and ideas....*Hugs* to all!!!
Jackie

 

I would take a good hard look at the battery cables - you want large heavy cables that will not get hot and lower the voltage as you crank. Sometimes there is battery corrosion that gets under the shielding, and sometimes people use cheap ends instead of a good moulded cable. At the same time I would remove and clean all grounds - even the braided cable at the back of the engine that runs to the cab ground.

Every time I have been stumped by an electrical problem it has turned out to be dirty grounds!

 

Porter's courtesy corner:
Mapquest view of location
__________________________________________________ _____________
Directions:

91 to Madison....

Exit N. to Magnolia...

Left on Magnolia and you'll see them by the Albertos on the right hand side just before Arlington Av
__________________________________________________ _____________
Address & Number:
7104 Magnolia Ave
Riverside, CA
92504
Phone: (951) 684-1717

Thats via city search...so let me know if the number is no good haha...just dont have time to dig out their card yet.

At the very least...give them a call first and explain the situation and see what their take on it is....let them know what you've had replaced and they can talk to you from there...ask for Dave...hes the one you'll most likely want to talk to.
Let us know how it goes
-Chris